Well, here we go! Our first “real” attempt at making a mountain. (Previously, paper mache over screen base many moons ago) What to use? Plaster; Hydracal; Ultracal; Sculptamold to cover. Our structure has been completed, made out of fiber board and cardboard. Total area @ 4 square feet. As always, many thanks.
Traindaddy1:
I usually prefer to use Sculptamold. It has a long enough working time that you can mold it to get the effects you want and the drying time is fairly short if you apply it in layers about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. I’ve also used a mixture of equal parts of Celluclay and plaster of paris with good results. It gives a less lumpy finish than Sculptamold and is equally strong.
Joe
LION (on a previous layout) used a paper mache(sp). But first I had to make the paper. I rolled up newspapers into logs about 1.5" in diameter, and then cut them on the circular saw about 3/8" cuts until all I had left was paper dust in the sawdust collection bin. [This is very messy work, a shop coat, goggles and mask are required!] When I had a garbage bag full of the stuff (LIONS go in for big mountains) I took it to the train room.
LION then went to the hardware store and picked out a color from the paint rack (three colors actually) and when the guy looked at me like I had two heads he wanted to know what I wanted it in, and so I gave him an empty gallon bottle. I told him to put the color in here, and that I would add water later.
LION used different kinds of sub forms: plastic mesh, chicken wire, metal lath… (stay away from that metal stuff–it cuts and hurts the paws) to shape the mountains.
I mixed warm water (lions have sensitive paws) with the wallpaper paste and the newspapers, and then added the colorant until I had the color I kneaded, and then applied it to the forms.
YES, the stuff shrinks, and if it is to close to the ROW it may lift up and poke the mountain at the passing trains, so keep that in mind, but when you decorate the hill, little of the actual base material will be seen under the foliage and bushes and whatnot. I used a grey-black colorant for the rocks, and any gaps in a rock face would look perfectly natural anyway.
Would I do it again? Yes… I still have some shredded paper left over, and it is easier for a LION with big furry paws than working with foam and getting that just right. Plaster is ok too, LON has used that, but likes his own ways better.
Here is a small sample of how it turned out:
ROAR
I use both sculptamold and hydrocal. Sculptamold, as a previous poster mentioned, has a longer work time but it has been my experience that it usually requires 24 hours to get hard enough to do any carving. Hydrocal sets up faster and I feel it is the better of the two for making rock castings/and or carving. Sculptamold has sort of a mushy/oatmeal type consistency and hydrocal is more of a traditional plaster. However, either one will work very well for your mountains, just be sure to follow the directions on the package and don’t forget to have fun.
Wayne
About Paper Mache’, There is another process you could use. Use strips of newsprint, dip in Diluted paint and lay it out on your base. Also to avoid all the dust from the newspaper, Soak the paper in water with a little detergent then use a strong stick and stir it to emulsify it. Then lay it out on nonporous counter top or equivalent to let it dry. when it is about dry, crumble it with your hands into a powder. Then you can add your color and bonding agent.
On my earlier layout I used drywall compound in another bucket or cheap dish pan, and watered it down to a paste then If you can still find them I tore brown paper bags into strips and soaked them in the plaster paste. I makes a good base after a few layers and 24 hrs to dry use your hydrocal for the finished product, Don’t for get to add some Rit dye to color it so you dont see the white if it chips. Jim.
If by “our structure is complete”, you mean you have the basic shape of your mountain formed, you have ruled out extruded foam insulation. I like it, especially in areas where I plan to plant some trees. You can make the mountain hollow if you are short of foam, but I have stopped at construction sites and have picked up plenty for the asking.
As well as the plaster based materials, there have also been articles on using white glue soaked paper towels. If you search for “glue shell” I think you will find more information. What I remember is that it is not as messy as plaster, easy to mix (50:50) with water, the mix doesn’t harden if you don’t use it all the first day, generic white glue by the gallon is quite inexpensive.
Just another option.
Good luck,
Richard
Joe; Roar; Wayne; Diamond Jim; Gondola Jim; Richard: Still undecided. A lot of great suggestions. Thanks, so much.
Follow-up on my post. I visited a LHS and looked at the Woodland Scenics Light Weight Hydrocal. The clerk suggested that, if I decided on that product, I’d better also buy the Mold-A-Scene Plaster which, he said, should be applied on top of the Hydrocal to seal it.
Based on your experience, is this true? As always, many thanks.
I’ve built many a mountain without the use of this product. After the hydrocal has set up it would normally get painted with an earth tone paint, and then some type of glue would be used to secure the scenery or ground cover on the mountain. I really don’t think anything else is necessary. Another advantage with hydrocal is that it works very well when pouring rock castings from various commercially available molds.
Another option for your mountain work is plaster cloth available at Woodland Scenics or other suppliers. While a little on the expensive side, it is very easy to use and I’m sure there are “how to” videos at WS describing its use.
Wayne
Wayne: Thanks.
Just a follow-up. We’ve decided on the Plaster Cloth. Many thanks for all your advice.
Making small hills with plaster cloth is pretty easy: just wad up some newspapers, maybe use some masking tape to hold them in place, and then just cover with the plaster cloth.
I also have used plaster cloth by just cutting out a piece, lay it in place, and then spray some water on it, rather than dipping the piece in water first. Both methods have worked very well for me.
Please send a photo when you are finished,
Wayne
If you put the wadded newspaper in plastic grocery bags then they won’t get wet and sag.
Excellent idea, never thought of that and will definitely keep it in mind.
Thanks,
Wayne
I had read about Lions mushy newspaper method before. I will not be doing it ever.[^o)] Now that the actual methods used by many here have been describes I think I will stick with my foam method for now.
There are many different ways of making mountains and I’m not sure what Lion’s method involved, but I’ve used newspapers to make small hills many times without any problems. Just wad up newspaper in a tight bundles and put plaster cloth over it.
Now if we’re talking about a large mountain instead of a hill then I would use the foam as you described. Even when using foam I still use wadded up newspapers here and there to adjust the shape. The combination of foam and wadded newspapers works very well for me but it may not be for everyone.
Like so many things in model railroading there are various techniques for construction, they all work and it is generally just a matter of personal preference.
Wayne