I’m planning on mounting a backdrop on the center peninsula of my layout. It would be 18" tall masonite (1/8th" thick) and about 12 feet in length. It would be mounted to the wide side of a 1x2 runner across the bottom and to the narrow side of a series of 1x2 pairs of blocks along the top at 16" intervals (I’m building a double-decker and the 1x2 blocks will be straddlings the 2x3s supporting the upper level–in-between will be the utility brackets). Anyway, given this framework, is there a reason why I couldn’t wood glue the backdrop to the 1x2s as opposed to using screws? Every book I have read on benchwork says uses screws but given the light weight of the backdrop and the extra work of covering screw heads, why would you not use glue?
You can use glue, gorilla glue is one that would work. The problem with masonite is humidity. The paper layer the glue sticks to can separate and the glue joint is lost. Plywood is better for that, but enough coats of paint to make it smooth is harder than filling screw holes. If you have a climate controlled train room and can afford to repair it down the line, any water proof glue ought to work. Epoxy for instance. Liguid nails is OK.
I use velcro strips. Cheap, inexpensive, easy to use and doesn’t damage anything. Works for me!
Jeffrey Wimberly, Leesville, La.
I’m out of my mind, but leave a message anyway.
[soapbox]
You might check out the layout building series in the Sept-Dec 2005 RMC, Don Spiro used sheet styrene as a backdrop. Easy to paint and glue in place, easy to flex around curves. Not sure if it would fit your situation but wouldn’t hurt to check it out??
I never thought of velcro for a situation like this. Sounds like a great idea and it would allow the masonite backdrop to have some give for any expansion from humid conditions. Make sure you prime all sides and edges befofe installation.
Bob K.
I will NEVER use masonite again. It swells with changes in humidity and ends up becoming wavy. Unless you can maintain constant humidity levels, you are asking for trouble using it as a backdrop. I learned that the hard way. I would go with styrene. Just make sure you put on a good primer before your sky coat. The only negative I know of for styrene is it is susceptible to scratching so be careful when handling it.
I would suggest using Liquid Nails for paneling found at HD to fasten your masonite. Styrene would be good too but I don’t know about price and availability. Also consider how you will hold the masonite or whatever in place till the glue drys. Some materials glued with liquid nails or wood glue or Gorilla glue need to be braced or clamped in place for 12 hrs or so. You might consider drilling pilot holes for sheetrock screws then removing the screws once the glue is dry and fill the holes with spackle or Beadex before priming with Kilz primer. Masonite will blled through latex paint unless a good primer such as Kilz is used. It comes both water based and oil based.
I suspect that your problem is largely unique to your layout’s particular location. I’ve used 1/8" masonite for backdrops for decades on various layouts and HO modules and never had a warping problem over time, even after the masonite needed to be strongly curved or flexed to fit a given curved location. My layouts have likewise been located in a largely unheated basement room subject to a wide range of humidity levels. Others of my acquaintance also have had no difficulties using masonite for backdrops.
CNJ831
whitman -
As suggested about, go with styrene, look in the yellow pages or on line for plastic suppliers. There was also a recent article in MR on using it for back drops too.
You can staple styrene strips to your frame work, then attach the sheet for the back drop with Tenax or Testors or similar.
Lowes sells 4’ by 8’ sheets of what looks to be styrene. I have used it behind sinks to waterproof sheetrock walls. Thin and cuts easy, don’t know how good it would hold paint but it’s not that expensive.
Jim
I think the stuff Jim is talking about is called Polywall. It comes in 4 x 8 sheets and is 1/8" thick. It works like a charm for backdrops or anything else. It’s stable, cuts easily and takes paint really well.
I have used this Masonite product for years in commercial applications(restrooms, kitchens etc). “Marlite” is a textured fiberglass panel w/ a smooth back. It is generally available in white or almond. Many have seen it in restrooms. It is very flexable and have seen it used as a backdrop material. I don’t think it is stiff enough to be mounted directly to uprights unless they are fairly close spans 12-14". The panel is intended to be applied to a substrate w/ wall bond/ or liquid nail using a notched trowel for best adhesion. The smooth backside would need to be dusted/ washed and primed. The fiberglass should work very similar to installing stryrene and may be much less expensive and more readily available (Loe’s and HD) There are also associated moldings for installation "J"end, "H"joints and inside corner.Bob K.