These are fairly popular models because of availability and price. I have two, one powered and one dummy. They are in great condition and a treat to run.
I would like to know if anyone has added one of the newer electronic horns and /or directional lights to these or similar era models.
Someone must have tried it? If so, what company did you obtain the electronics from? Can I get the newer Lionel electronics to work with conventional power?
This kind of conversion would make a good article in CTT, the diesels of the MPC era are everywhere and most are not equipped with either horn and/or lights.
Thanks for any help on this.
I upgraded two MPC GP9’s with mini commanders [TMCC and Directional Lighting]. Now moved those kits to some K-Line switchers and going to use Electric RR Sound Commanders with Cruise for thsoe two. Easy to do. Just have to find time to do. Put speakers in fuel tanks. Beeps will take a Beep Commander and that gives you TMCC and directional lighting.
Directional lighting in particular is extremely easy for any Lionel with the traditional e-unit and universal motor. The lights are originally wired between the frame and the pickup. Just move the wire that connects the light to the pickup to one of the motor brushes instead. Which brush you use will determine in which direction the light will be on.
Thanks for the help, Chief Big Eagle and lionelsoni. I am using just conventional control (MRC & Lionel) for all my trains at this time. TMCC is just too expensive to consider at this time.
Can I install marker lamps as well or will this just consume too much power? Are LEDs practical? I have been asking around and haven’t found anyone who can say for sure if they can be used. I have been looking at the “replacement” LED lamps and I am thinking of going that route for the lighting.
Now that leaves just the horn. Has anybody used any of the itt products? They have a huge selection of horn sounds and other stuff.
Does anyone have any further thoughts?
LED marker lights are very practical and draw negligible current. The 3-millimeter size is about right for this. You can cut down the plastic case as needed to fit the holes, cut off most of the hemispherical tip, and shape it with a file into the slight bulge of a realistic lens. Polish the result with toothpaste. Just don’t cut into the electronic innards.
Electrically, the simplest circuit is two LEDs in “anti-parallel”, that is cathodes-to-anodes, then in series with a ballast resistor, perhaps 1000 ohms, 1/2 watt. Wire each LED circuit between the field terminal that connects to the e-unit and one of the motor brushes. This is slightly different than the headlight wiring I described, but needed to make sure the LEDs turn completely off when they are supposed to. I assume you would want two red lights on at the opposite end of the car from the lit headlight.
“TMCC is just too expensive to consider at this time.”
Keep checking on eBay. Guys who are up-grading to Legacy are listing their old TMCC CAB-1/Command Base sets for cheap!
Most dealers have the CAB-1/Command Base set new in the box for just over $100 bucks. To go TMCC you really don’t need anything else.
Jon [8D]
I don’t know why, but I use e-bay all the time for cars and locos, but I never considered it for controls of that type.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Don