MTH--DCS system use on G gauge, how do you make it work BEST !!!!

EMPIRE II LINE

Byron Custer

Does anyone have any experience with the MTH- DCS systems use in G scale, using DC track power. I use Aristo Stainless steel track with rail clamps and Bridgewerks DC track power systems. MTH suggests using two power blocks through the TIU and multi hookups to the track from there, on the two variable sides of the TIU. A person once suggested using all of the same length wires to the track for each hookup. Mind you I’m trying to find the best way to go about this with out the constant work of rewiring continually, anyone had any success with this system??? I have well over 1500 foot of track in a double track main-line, with multiple switches, #6’s and wide radius 10 ft. switches, I’ve jumper wired these also. But still no real response continually, only intermitantly. Any experienced user’s of this system that can help me here ???

I have a MTH proto 2 system that I use once in a while in my garden . I use brass track of various manufactures and a Bridgewerks 15 amp transformer . I have found that the track must be real clean to work right and even then there are spots that the control signal wont get to the engine . That really is annoying , especially when my “challenger” is blowing its whistle or the bell is ringing . I use only one power lead to the track which is basicly a 300’ circle with a couple of passing sidings . However that being said the system is the most fun to operate . I also use rail clamps on every track joint . Hope this helps .

After pulling all my hair out I have very good signal throughout my 1200 foot of track/switches.

Brass track with soldered jumpers and all feeders, Bridgewerks 22volt power supply.

Divided and insulated my track into closed loops with 8 short as possible feeders.

Found out that more feeders is not necessarily better due to the added length for the signal to cover.

There are up to 200 ft of track on 1 separate loop with only 1 feeder.

Had to have a 2nd TIU to have enough signal strength for my complicated layout and length.

Set up the TIU’s in super mode which connects both TIU’s to operate on all tracks.

Add light bulbs located at each loop and experiment with location,which has done more for increased signal than anything.

I also can operate DCS at the same time as using the Aristo on-board system.

I had many suggestions and I guess there are many ways of approaching this but this worked for me.

Hope this helps.

Bud

Never mind him Eric, I was seeking intelligent information about this particular system anyway, Mr. Bud Steinhoff was vary accomodating, even spent the afternoon with he and his wife, enjoying his railroad, I think he has much to offer those who really would like to understand the DCS system, and how to make it work very successful in the Garden.

Byron

I read somewhere that MTH recommends using the “spider web” approach to wiring for the DCS or Lionel TMCC. Basically, you wire more than just two blocks–inbetween all your turnouts there should be power feeders, all relatively short length and tied to at least one large gauge feeder hub.

I read this I think in O gauge journal about two years ago. They stated that putting feeders at every corner of the layout and between turnouts made for superb conductivity. And I would recommend such a move for any digital system in the garden.

The DCS isn’t a bad system but going “digital” doesn’t necessarily mean “less wiring”. It may mean more uniform wiring, or shorter wires, but not less wires!

Rest assure, if you go overboard on wiring, the worst thing that can happen is that you never have a problem!

Regards,

Thomas M.

Oh and btw, the LGB MTS system could really benefit from the “spider web” technique as well. I have noticed that even on my HO DCC layout, the DCC signal seems much more “sensitive” to voltage drop than a normal DC layout. Same with LGB MTS. So it is very important if you run electricity to go over kill on wiring. Thick guage Wire is much cheaper than most stuff anyway!

Warm regards,

Thomas M.

Thomas M.

Thank you for your reply, Seems as you say that this system DOES work best with less wire, shorter the better at times, as well as blocks and single hook ups to each section from the TIU’s in super mode. The most important added feature though, is a light bulb, strategically located across the track somwhere in the loop to CLEAN UP THE SIGNAL, so I’m told. Bud’s layout of I would guess wellover 1500 foot of track and multiple LGB switches, operates flawlessly. He also shared/showed a few other tricks to me as well, that I hope to implement into my operation. If you are using this system as I say he has much to offer… Byron

Naturally i disagree with all of you, i have 200 metres of track and it is all connected with soldered rail joiners or hillman clamps and nothing else. I have no trouble with controlling my 8 locos with up to 8 on board functions and points (switches) and signals at any place in the track.

To even talk about block wiring indicates to me that actual working knowledge is in short supply (i have put this as nicely as i can) unless you have a quite advanced layout to do with automation or train detection, as i will have soon, there is absolutely no poin; even then i willonly be using one rail for control the other will be, as is.

I get about 24 .8 V in all parts of my layout and digital signals reach my locos at any point in the layout. The reason for this is that brass rails are an outstanding conductor of electricity and nothing you can supply in the way of wire will come anywhere near it. Not only for conuctivity but for lackof capacitive and inductive reactance (I am a retired electrical engineer)

My main reason for going to DCC was to get away from block wiring.

Rgds Ian

Dude iandor you seem to be out of your league in this one, so back off and sit in your corner![censored][}:)] I love my DCS and found that a single light bulb on my 12 way power block cleaned up a good part of my signal.[2c] What are some of the tips you gleaned from your visit, I would love to hear them.[bow][bow]

I am rarely out of my league ever; and i do have a succesful DCC system working and have done for over 3 years and it is all very simple, nothing fancy, no tricky wiring, no light bulbs. Possible what you have is in a fairly undeveloped stage and hasn’t had all the bugs ironed out of it yet.

By the way it is LGB MTS and i have belonged to a forum that discusses this very subject and nothing of what you guys are talking about was ever mentioned, do you have much actual experience of with an in the field “G” scale DCC system? This forum is to do with garden railways after all.

Rgds Ian

All we are talking about is MTH’s Digital Command System IE. DCS. Go here and read up OK

http://www.protosound2.com/

Sorry ole chap can not let you pull the wool over these nice new comers eyes.

Ok two simple things as I remember on your track that you could not run your trains for long. 1) small black ants (on your track which I named it Antville) 2) pick ups was dirty because of the ants

You should have known because it is your RR and 3 yrs in it! Come on and eazy up on these people!!!

William

Just because some have worked the bugs out of other systems/ not DCS, came up with a fix and have a smooth operating layout does not mean that it will work as well on different systems or layouts.

Even though my MTH/DCS system works very well on my track configuration there are many possible variations on other layouts that may be required to get the bugs out.

Bud

I do have an ant problem and it does affect one engine and not the other seven and it is electrolytic. This is to do with electricity in general and has nothing to do with digital control, nothing at all. If i had a normal DC system it would be worse; affecting one lot of power pick ups instead of 2 but with double the amount of ant acid converted to a black gooey substance on that one power pick up.

Rgds Ian

Very well said Bud, as I have explained to you my configuration is different than yours, and the suggestions you have made to me will be implemented, also I use stainless steel track, not Brass.

THANX

Byron

Have you guys found that bridgewerks provides the cleanest power supply to carry the dcs signal? Also, approximately how often do you run a power feed? 20ft? 30ft? 40ft? 50ft?

Thanks

I use Bridgewerk power supplies and agree they are clean.

On 1000 ft of brass track with soldered joints I have 6 feeders, all as short as possible to isolated closed loops.

1 feeder/loop is 250 ft long

1 light bulb on each loop.

2 TIU,s in super mode with feeders/track length split equally as possible between the 2.

Bud

Guys, this is your warning: please keep this thread on topic. If you are not familiar with this system or can’t offer assistance, don’t post.

I use DCS for my O scale MTH trains. I think your problem may be the stainless steel track. The signal has to travel back and forth from the TIU to the engine and back again and it has to be a really clean signal. I don’t use SS track so I’m not sure if it carries the signal as well as brass track.

Something else to consider would be to use 2 conductor “speaker” wire like you would buy at Radio shack to hook up your stereo. It seems to conduct the signal much better than standard electrical wire.

Ian-

You really need a reality check.

If your stuff is “successful”, mayhaps we need to start a thread quoting the many issues you continue to have.

If I had 1/10 the problems you have reported, I would have given up long ago.

The rules of the forum prevent me from telling you what I really think about this.

Think before sending.

Keyboard it out on-screen, read it, walk away for 30 minutes, come bnack and read it again before hitting “send”.