[:(!]Enough of two thing actually. First I got tired of the constant uncoupling because of the height difference in the ‘proto-MAX’ couplers (teh ones that are automatic if you have DCC) , so I decided they should be removed and replaced with standard knuckle couplers like the rest of my rolling stock.
So I remove the coupler, la de da, no problem, then I go to put the other coupler in (the locomotive came with a set of standard knuckle couplers, too) and start putting in the screw. Well, the screw wouldn’t go. [banghead] I pushed as hard as I dared without sacraficing any handrails (thank goodness for cradles) but it just wouldn’t go. I looked in and the threads looked okay on the screw and inside the pilot hole. Five minutes later I’m about to throw the whole locomotive out the window. I decided coming here was a better option. [;)]
Any suggestions? Had anyone else had this problem or am I the only one?
Do you mean that the screw you took out, when you removed the original coupler won’t go back in the original hole with the regular knuckle coupler in place? If so, will the screw go in with no coupler in place? If not, is there down in the hole plugging it up, deeper than where you have been looking at the threads. If it does go in by itself, will it go through the hole in the coupler so the coupler can swing easily when in place. If not I’d say you need to ream the hole in the coupler.
Other than that, if you are replacing the original with a Kadee, check their site to see if there is a description of the conversion. If it isn’t listed, give them a phone call and see what they suggest.
I’ll second that!
I have one of each (ACe’s ‘Proto Coupler’ & STD coupler), & I would actually like a set of those ‘Proto Couplers’ & Boards to experiment with.
However, I wonder how the same screw came out & is now uncoperative?
Is it the same coupler box?
If not, I could see as much as .020" - .030" being an issue, meaning, how much of the screw threads are visable through the “new” box when out of the pilot?
And, were there any other same sized but longer ones in the parts bag?
If you want, I can go & try to find my version in storage & see what it came with, in an attempt to assist…
I have not changed mine because of two reasons, well 3 actually;
All my cars have Kadee #158 Scale Head, which is smaller & auto couples good… (stock, no mods)
Tried against the #5 Standard, & filed the MTH “Tounge” with a micro file & now they work too!
Perhaps I may not have pulled & “Challenged” the MTH couplers with long enough trains, (Very likely!!)
Acela026,
Hey, I have to apologize, I seriously did not remember how those couplers were mounted!
Also, I could not help myself so I DID go get mine out & hope that this will help you & others!
Again, sorry for the confusion…
Shown here are the different mounting styles, the ‘Electronic’ floats in a stirrup strap, & the ‘Magnetic’ mounts in the screw through the box standard & common method. I had to pull these units out of storage to look them over & obtain this shot. Also notice that the Right side (BNSF unit) does have a buffer plate over the raw chassis, the left one (UP DRGW Heritage) has a circuit board driving the solenoid in the coupler in the same space. (I jammed the circuit board under the steps to view the chassis pins & threaded holes. However, when “I” test fitted the standard Magnetic coupler into the slot I was a very tight fit, as the circuit board was intruding on the opening. On the other hand, without it the coupler box angled itself oddly & was also wrong! This led me to believe that a correct buffer plate like that on the BNSF unit is needed for alignment & clearance, but not really! Although everything looks correct with the electronic plate left in place & a ‘magnetic coupler’ put in & tight, the issue is actually getting the ‘magnetic coupler’ box inserted at first & then it all will fall into place & work.
One issue I encountered was that I initially could not get the new long center screw to thread smoothly all the way into the well. It wanted to bind before the ‘magnetic coupler’ box was secure. I backed out the screw & tried a second time & it tightened without binding & secured the coupler box appropriately. (You can see the silvering/wear on the screw in the pic).
I suspect (on Mine!) there may have been debris or a chip from threading in the threaded hole.
Therefore, I would suggest chasing the threads with just the screw, BEFORE trying to put in the coupler box…
Thi
I seriously don’t see the problem. I have 4 MTH Aces, and I just replaced the couplers with Kadee #5s, using the supplied coupler box they give you in the box.
Just to clarify, mine did work, it only needed to have the threads chased first, & the original board was left in place to keep everything lined up, (although in the picture I have it moved to show the frame).
Actually, while I was at it I replaced the plastic couplers on the BNSF unit with 158’s…
Well, after a Merry Christmas I thought I would try to put in the coupler, hoping a miracle would occur.
No such luck.
I think I have pinpointed the problem, though. I believe the circuit board for the ‘proto-max’ coupler was put in place slightly off center of the hole for the standard knuckle coupler, which would explain why the screw acts like it wants to keep jumping out.
Ahhhhh, it feels good to have figured out the problem.
Should I remove the circuit board and replace the gap it leaves with something of equal thickness, or should I send the unit back to MTH? (I really would like to avoid this if possible)
If you can just make the hole in the circuit board a little larger to allow the screw to be used normally. ONLY do this if making the hole will not damage any components or cut through a trace.