Okay, gang. I know it’s been discussed before, but the track, turnouts, etc are ordered, supporting benchwork is nearly done, and I have to decide: FOam or plywood for the base of the layout.
Here’s what I see in it:
Plywood
Pro: Have used it many times, no problems. Easier to mount tortoise machines, wires, etc. on bottom of layout.
Cons: Heavier, harder to lay track (nails versus pins), flat and can’t be carved.
Foam
Pro: LIght, can be carved for ditches, etc. Easier to pin track down during gluing.
Cons: Harder to mount things on underside. Never used before.
I should add that I have 90 turnouts, most of which I run off tortoises… so the mounting-on-the-underside thing is a major consideration…
What’s the room have to say? Am I missing something? What else should I consider…
Why not both? Make the subroadbed out of plywood and use foam around the layout. Use plywood in any yards or large flat areas, and foam in more hilly or mountainous areas.
I have only ever built one layout, and that was 5/8" under 1" foam. Talk about beefy!
Looking over at my table edge-on(I have no fascia), it seems to me that if you were to use 1/4" ply and 1" foam, you would have the best of both worlds. Heck, I’d even think seriously of masonite or doorskin under the foam…all you need is something reasonably firm to anchor your machines, right, something that will take a small screw?
For ease, it seems the way to go is to lay the hard foundation everywhere, and then the foam, so that you don’t have to do all sorts of measured cutting beyond that.
Plywood then foam. I have one section on my layout where I used only foam, what a disaster. The sound resonance from the section without playwood is awful.
I use just the foam. Pictures of how I mount Tortoises are on my web site, I got the idea from the NorCal FREEMO group’s web site. I actually think it’s EASIER than trying to screw a Tortoise to plywood from the bottom, as there’s no alignment issue, unless you are REALLY unsteady with the Dremel.
I also have no issues with noise. I use 2" foam, Woodland Scenics Track-bed, and glue the track bed down with latex caulk, and also use caulk to fasten the track. The only noises I hear are the metal wheels on the rails. ANd the sounds from sound-equipped locos. The foam is glued with yellow glue to a 1z4 frame underneath.
1/4" mdf with 1" foam on top…works wonders for my layout (I’ve laid track on it with pl300 caukling to glue down the cork and track nails to attatch the track to that. Works amazing, especially enjoying my rivers and lakes!
I’ve never quite understood the big benefit of spline roadbed… It’s easier to push a spike into it, but I’ll use foam which is similar. It’s more materials-efficient than cookie cutter plywood, but I use very little cookie cutter (modeling a river valley road means much of my track is flat and level). Other than that, i don’t see any gain to using it. And I find it to be much more labor-intensive than plywood/foam…
Now, that is all simply my experience of it and opinion. Happy to hear if you think I’m wrong about the benefits, or missing something.
I should specifically point out that if I were doing something more along the lines of the Gorre & Daphetic or similar, where most if not all subroadbed would be “cookie cutter” in the traditional method, then I’d probably think long and hard about splines.
I think you are right, if your layout is flat, maybe it’s better to use foam. You mention spike. Have you tried to use latex caulk to glue down the track? It’s sooo good.
Adjustment? The club I used to belong to had hundreds of Tortoises. Not one ever failed or needed work, these things just keep on ticking. I have one I use as a sampel to test things, I’ve abused it WAY beyond what it should take onthe layout - had it apart many times, move the arm byhand - VERY fast, even so hard it made nasty gear strippign noises. But when I hook it to a proper power supply and run it, it’s still smooth and nearly as quiet as one that’s been treated properly.
Plus, I NEVER solder the rail joiners at a turnout - all I really have to do is slide them back and lift out the turnout. And a dab of caulk on the pivot point ont he Tortoise keeps that from accidently moving and causing a problem - that’s about the only thing that could go out of adjustment on them.