My average track work.

Classic Toy Trains Forum
21

You say you’re not much of a craftsman. That’s one of the things Model Railroading will do for you. Mechanical, soldering, electrical, problem solving.

On the 726/736 engine, and probably on 675/2025, 225E, 226e, all of those, this crops up.

Gauge is first thing you check. if you don’t know just remove the truck (one shouldered screw) and hold the wheels against a set of flanged drivers. make them match. Small hammer works on the axle stub if too narrow.

While the truck is off, push down on the rivet head, see if there is any tension left on the spring.You can order new rivets and spring, cut the old one out, seat the properly oriented one with a center punch, lightly.

If the spring is intact, contact cement a shim of brass or even styrene on the rivet head rubbing plate on the bottom of the cylinder block. Try .020". You can always pry it off and clean the glue off if that doesn’t work.

I obtained a pre-war 226E (boiler looks like a 726 with stack in proper place due to no smoke unit) that after unpacking and lubing, derailed on every switch.

Who knows where the previous owner got the wheels and axle from, not right, wheels loose enough gauge changed in 10 feet of running…but NO rivet and NO spring. Dug around, got wheels and axle, spring and rivet, goes through 3 or 4 iterations of GarGraves switches now.

22

If the spring is intact, what is the purpose ofthe .020 shim? just to build up vertical and and leave less rom for upward movement?

23

The shim adds a bit more tension. While postwar Lionel was far better then some of the modern made in PRC stuff as far as QC, it’s worth checking, and it doesn’t hurt to try. If you have some of that real thin double backed scotch tape, that will hold the shim.

Bottom line, not a universal problem.

I hate this forum software…when answering you can’t go back and see all the posts.

I have had the issue, almost always spring or gauge, most likely gauge. I have some 675’s with NO spring, and they track fine (done on purpose to clear a modification I do to all of them). Maybe a stick on weight.

If this was a class problem, everbody would be screaming, so we look at the basics first.

Gauge. Spring tension. There is generally enough slop on the shouldered screw to take up for any non-original twist in the truck frame. UNLESS somebody along the way lost the shouldered screw and stuck in a regular screw with no shoulder…or added washers. You never know.

I am guessing you have the cast truck. Not likely to have a bad twist without it breaking.

So, check gauge and spring, report back.

I have a 726, 736, and 226E, and none exhibit that issue, and nobody I know locally with any of those exhibits that.

That said, these ARE three numbered locomotives. That’s 0. Four numbered are 027. Seems like you’re using broader than 027 switches, so that’s good. It’s not the height of the rail, rather the curvature. Makes no nevermind on a lot of engines, especially if the same engine is available in both numbering series, like a 675/2025. But the Berks in postwar never came in 4 number series.

671/681 and the 027 2020, don’t care, seems the wheelbase is short enough on drivers and those six wheel lead and trail trucks.

"All of the Berkshires that Lionel produced were designed to run on the standard

24

3 digit numbers on the locos don’t mean you can’t run them on 027 switches, although it feels like an adventure the first time. My 773 doe snot give me the problem on the 1122 switches. But thanks for thoughtful comments. I will check, when my hobby shop reopens, if the survive–some old guys in an old shop–first advrtiser in MR, I believe–The Model Railroad Shoppe in Dunellen, NJ.

25

Ah, if you read what I posted, they do in some cases. I quoted. Long wheelbase steam with two wheel lead trucks…asking for derailment issues. The big issue is the position of the switch machine and overhang. I not only find several places that mention the incompatibility of the 726/736 on 027 switches, but recall it from discussions in the 50’s.

You don’t find anything wrong with gauge or tension spring, and it stil won’t go through 027 (not 034) switches, think Sherlock Holmes.

Here’s a test. Place your engine ony upside down wedged in towels. Take a couple of pieces of 027 curved track, lay them upside down on the wheels, see how close the lead truck is to the cylinders.

Then see if you have any rub marks on the cylinders after you remove the track.

Found several websites where folks claimed they have no issues with 726/736 on 027 TRACK…but they won’t discuss switches.

Track isn’t the problem. It can very well be forces on the lead truck and the geometry of the components in the switch.

I see you in another discussion, where some folks claim it works, other state specific switch numbers.

I remember when I got my 225E. 1952. Later was warned not to run it on 027. That was from dealers at the time. Wrong, but that was the deal. I think because the plate on the pickups said “0 gauge locomotive”.

Bottom line: Yours won’t go though 027 switches. Do we try to figure it out? Yeah, that’s what we’re doing here. I have absolutely zero 027 on the premesis, so can’t check that here. I’d be looking at the angle of attack of the lead truck flanges in the curve. Does it go so far as to cause the edge of the flange to pick parts on the switch?

You can go to forums and have dozens of folks tell you it works. Obviously yours does not.

One more thing…does you lead truck have an oval hole for the shouldered screw or round? Oval

26

a surprising fact newly learned: a GG1 (just acquired one) will go through 1122 switches. Surprise me!