Well, I just did this yesterday, since I still have some free time. Note this was my first attempt at decaling a locomotive. It was also my first try at Hand painting, Gloss coating, and cutting the frame to fit the shell.
I still need to get a new motor (old blue box GP38), install DCC, and put couplers on it. I had to cut the frame coupler pads to install the shell (it said to in the directions), so any advice on installing new ones to either the frame(Metal), or the shell?
Alright! Your off to a great start! It’s real satisfying to kit bash a loco, making the alterations, etc. and then having it running on the lay out. Looks like you have an old BB frame with cast metal sideframes? What shell did you use, that you had to cut the frame down? I’m guessing it’s not an Athearn shell? As far as mounting couplers, you can go either way, figure out how to mount to the shell, which may be easier because it’s plastic, or the frame. I’ve done it both ways. Coupler height is the bigger issue.
The motor, is it the old style with the dark gray, almost black motor cover? If it is, swap it out with a “newer” brass or gold colored motor. They draw a lot less amps. You can usually get them for $12. to $20, or less, on eBay.
Decals, well, you should see me fumble with the number boards! The bigger letters and number are no problem. For the tiny number boards, I usually let the number float free from the backing, pick it up with a tiny paint brush, and manauver it in place. Then I coat it with “Solvaset”, and when that’s dry, I cover it with a clear coating to keep everything in place.
Just a few of my thoughts! You’ll learn as you go, like all of us.
Mike.
Yep, it is an old BB. The shell is an old Railpower Products shell that had you cut down some of the frame because the new shell was a sale foot shorter.
There are a number of decal setting solutions, Solvaset is the strongest. Many people do not use it because it is strong; I use it. A couple of important things about this stuff.
For the first application to the newly applied decal. Be sure the decal is where you want it before applying Solvaset. It immediately softens the decal, and most attempts to move the decal will ruin it. The decal may appear to wrinkle when Slovaset is applied. This is normal and the decal will settle down as the Solvaset dries - DO NOT touch it until dry. Do not blot directly on the decal; remove excess liquid by touching the tip of a paper towel to the edge of teh liquid and let it wick away. Tip the model so the liquid will flow to the edge of the decal to help this.
Let it dry overnight. Look for air bubbles and places where the decal did not settle around details like radiatiors or doors. Pierce the bubble with a pin and apply more Solvaset. Once the decal is dry overnight, it will not be damaged by careful blotting.
I always use distilled water to wet the decal , does not leave that while ring around the decal that tap water can.