I picked up some bags of Bragdon’s powdered weather system and quickly got to work. I wanted to do something subtle at first:
So what do you think did I do alright so far?
I’d say you were doing fine. I prefer subtle to heavy myself, though in real life there certainly are many cases of heavy.
I am working on a couple of structures. They are the first ones that I have done any weathering on. So far I’m pleased with the results.
Just remember you are the only one you have to please. If you like the degree of weathering you have done, it’s right. If you want a little more, go for it. I’d certainly say you were on the right track (pun intended) and the degree is up to you. Keep up the good work.
Have fun,
Very nice for a first attempt. I too like a subtle look for the most part.
Braegdon powders do work quite good, however, you may find that many of the factory paint finishes may be too slick for the powder to hold well. A coat of flat finish first allows the powder to adhere better.
In other words, the veteran weatherers want your equipment to look like it ran through a mud storm. I like what you did.
I’d say that you’ve done a nice job, especially for your first attempt.
Depending on the era which you’re modelling, the weathering could vary greatly. I too prefer the more subtle style, but there’s no reason why you couldn’t make some dirtier than others, too.
Wayne
Very nice. Especially the gray Milwaukee Road one. That one just looks “right”.
John
Very well done. To me, the yellow car looks a little bright for the rust that is showing.
I tried this trick I read about here to dull down the color some. Sand the car with 400 grit paper and it will dull down the logos and color of the car. Then spray dull coat, it will hide the sanding marks left by the paper.
Still looks very good.
Cuda Ken
If you have an airbrush, an easy way to “tone down” lettering or an overly-bright paint job is to overspray the car with a colour similar to that of the base colour. Thin the paint with about 90% thinner and make a couple of quick passes from not too close, repeating as necessary. You can also use the same technique to add a dulling layer of “dirt” - simply use a heavily-thinned “dirt” colour of your choice.
Wayne
Sorry, double post. Just won’t delete…
Wayne makes a good point about handling any of those bright colored cars. As in the case of that yellow covered hopper, airbrushing a very thinned but lighter (sun bleached) yellow will aid in a faded look. These hoppers were done by first drybrushing areas of rust, some grime then airbrushed w/ Floequil weathered black. This was thinned to a bit more than 30/70.(painy/ thinner). Some of the 50 plus pieces were done to various degrees of paint, drybrushing and actual overcoats using engine black to grime.After airbrushing,you can add any “wet” look from oil, fuel or liquid seepage/ spills.
Thanks for sll the advice and comments guys ! Looking good Robert!
I hope to get an airbrush someday but right now I am limited to using the powders.
I added a little more to those bright yellow hoppers and worked a bit on my loco:
Nice work the second time fading the hoppers. With the Bragdons you may still want to put a clear coat on your locomotives and freight cars weathered with them to prevent smudges and fingerprints. this will usually at least thin the weathering layer so you may need to use several coats. It can achieve some great results. Another tip is to use prototype pictures. google images works well, as do:
http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/
http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/
There’s also a freight car photo website but I don’t have the link to it and don’t use it. I’ve gotten most of my prototype pictures from a member of a different forum.
Weathering is a very fun part of this hobby, one of my favorites in fact. It takes some practice, but it’s pretty easy to get the hang of.
Thanks Sawyer!
I used some of the limestone powder to tone them down some. Thanks for the links. I have an on-going folder of rolling stock that I run as a slide show. I had a few dozen 2 bay hoppers to look at for reference.
Go Pack!!
no prob. yeah, that light colored powder works great. I had a few boxcars that were light blue and another that was light green, so after I put the rust streaks on them I went back with that powder and hit them with it to tone down the rust. Here’s those two coupled up to my U23B (which itself was weathered with a lot of coats of powder and a few prototype photos):
Like I said, it’s easy to get the hang of, just don’t be afraid to try a technique out. I’ve had to strip and repaint several cars.
and AMEN GO PAC GO
Those look great Sawyer. I am definitely going to try some other methods down the road.
I generally weather everything with my air brush and artist chalks when ever I use chalks I always seal them in with clear flat finish. I try to use chalks on things like structures as once you plant em they are pretty much there for good but for things like locomotives and rolling stock I stick to the air brush.
I will say I like your subtlety weather is an art in it self and I agree with the others who have said that a lot of modelers tend to over weather cars so much to the point that they look like they were dragged from a river bottom. Not being old enough to remember what freight cars looked like for real in the era I modeled so I can only go by what I see now a days and you hardly ever see anything that bad so what you modeled is pretty much prototypical in my book. Nice job