well guys I finely snagged my first brass steam engine… ah I paid dearly for this old 4-6-4, yup $70 and this one has so much paint on it. I cant see the detail’s
what to do… I have strip this puppy
I get a lot of paint on my keyboard, ah but I have too … so I can show my stuff to you. hey dont think that I dont wash my hands its only a $10 kb and typing and painting… what can you do.
its going slow with this locomotive as this one has some heavy primer uggg…
what are people thinking when they do this $h|t
looks like a plate of lima beans well I just ran out of the easy lift of paint remover, but I do have a huge bottle of dot3 brake fluid
and I will give this a try and let you know … wow this is cool I see the # 3462 on the tender and its cast(or pressed) in the brass sweet ’ I have been trying to cover the number boards on the loco as to keep the 3462 there in good shape its tricky, must be a trick with wax or something to do this right
Budliner,
Congrats on the loco, but I have 1 word for you.
Disassemble!
Most brass, its easy. 2 small screws below the cab back of the cab, 1 long screw above the pilot into the bottom of the smoke box and the boiler should lift off. 2 truck screws (watch the springs) and 4 or 6 screwws and the tender shell should release from the frame. Watch the brake fluid, it will raise heck with the rubber and plastic parts it comes into contact with (anywhere its insulated) so protect these parts as much as possible. Take photos or notes on anything else you take off and reassembly should go well.
Remove any tarnish on the brass with Tarn-X, wash, and prime it asap, and you are on your way!
While you are at it, it the little flexible rubber driveshaft needs it, replace it with some silicone fuel hose for RC cars .
BTW, how does she run? What make is it?
hello kbfcsme I just got the engine yesterday and I dont think it runs.
I do see the motor in the cab
its in a akane box but it has some tape over the name
I think its the tenshodo just from the others I have seen
nice tender but the crossbar is broke off
tonight I will pop off the cab good tip on the brake fluid as I see some rubber on the wheels and have been keeping the fluid off these parts
I dont think the trucks are as nice as I would have liked
hello art
I love that bridge you got there
if it was not $100 I will have got that too …
I have been working on my M,E, tall steel for some time (that a hard model and I may need to do another one better
I will like to see your brass but not meny like to show it on here
whether people dont like to show them or dont have them
I have been looking for some cast addon details but I dont know exactly how to do that yet I know that when its done correctly they just blend in and you cant tell someone added them
thanks again for the tips and you will see more of this steamer
If the loco is a Tenshodo, it should have a small plate on the engine’s cover plate which says “Tenshodo”. I doubt if it is - the workmanship doesn’t appear to be up to Tenshodo’s standards. Too much extraneous solder on the surfaces. It’s a Santa Fe loco, by the way. And an old one - circa mid-Fifties, I’d say. The wheel flanges put it before the Sixties. Any idea what the odd hardware on the pilot is supposed to represent?
its online for $150 looks just like it but i dont know for sure
I do think that someone soldered the train to put the shades after it was purchased some time ago
wow KB you nailed that one. I did disassemble this beast and you are a winner. you guessed it, the rubber was snaped. looks like I will have to find that little hose
Looking fine. As for the “rubber” You can replace the link with rubber latex fuel hose used for Model RC Aircraft and readily available at your LHS (If they sell Aircraft parts).
hey fergie
I like this little loco
I have a sagami 20x27mm online I was told its for a rivarossi 4-6-2 ’
I guess its not good for heavy brass steamer
I thinks the original motor can be cleaned
thanks for jumping in as people get mad If I just post pictures in succession
I see a lot of people like to read and dont like to post who can blame the we have some members that do nothing but express discontent, displeasure, or unhappiness
Budliner–just got back from a two-day railfanning trip to Hell, and it was refreshing to see your post. First of all, congratulations on your new loco. Yup, it’s a Santa Fe Hudson, by cracky, and by the photos, it looks as if it might be an old M.B. Austin import from the mid-1950’s. To say that they were ‘over-soldered’ is putting it mildly, but that can be camoflouged with some VERY careful filing and a good paint job. Two things that lead me to believe it’s an old Austin are the headlight casting, which is just a tube, and the red insulation on the drivers. It’s a fibre material, and be careful that your driver rims don’t start waltzing off, if it’s getting old. A drop or two of CA on the fibre should keep the rims in place.
I’d take the loco in to your LHS and see what they have for good replacement motors from NWSL. And if you’re replacing it with a can motor, I’d forget the tubing, and look at the NWSL universal sets. Can motors need play from the worm gear to work at peak efficiency, and you don’t get that from neoprene tubing. In fact, NOT having play between the motor and the drive gear can shorten the life of even the best can motor. NWSL makes a number of good universal sets that can be adapted to your drive train. I use them all the time when I convert an old brass loco to can, and they’ll give you a very smooth running machine.
And remember, brass ISN’T a ‘snob’ item–most of us brass collectors do so because with brass you can get that SPECIFIC class and number loco you’ve always wanted, which isn’t always available in even the best new plastic locos. And with care and tinkering, you can have a brass loco that will run just as nice and smooth and powerfully as anything from BLI or Proto or Genesis.
Nice looking model. But take it from one who’s been down this road many, MANY times before–DISASSEMBLE before you STRIP, next time.
Hope it turns out to be a winner for you. And again, congratulations.
Tom [:D][:D]
I have to disagree here, just a little bit. Unless there is a whole lot of offset, I actually think the tubing makes a superior joint over the NWSL universals. First, it’s dead quiet, and second, it’s constant velocity, and third, if you get an 8" piece of that RC plane fuel line, you have two lifetime’s supply. The technology of tubing has come a LONG way.
twhite as alwas some good info from you thanks for taking time to post
I will try to do that with the red fiber do you think I should use some fine clock oil on it or is the ca the best approach
thats how I felt, but wow I see some people paying up to a $1000
so I have not seen to meny under $100
hey Virginian
I was thinking I can use that hose and then take some time to find out whats the best can motor to use, I will like to use the 20x27 sagami but still want the pulling power over smooth ride
