My first layout. Could use some help.

I have been an armchair modeler for about 30 years, and finally broke down recently and actually started building my first layout, after collecting various kits and cars over the last 20 years or so.

I really would have preferred to do an around the room layout, but wanted to be able to have trains up and running quickly, and not just have them going back and forth, as I have a son who is also really into trains, and he wanted that. So, I decided on the good old island type layout, but a 4X8 just wasn’t going to cut it, so I went with a 5X9. The layout comes apart into 2 2.5X9 tables, which makes it easy to transport in case we move (we just did once), or if I ever decide to take the layout to a train show or something.

It does have one sneak-off track to get to future staging along a wall, which will double as a yard as well.

It has a long way to go, with some obvious things left to do, and some not as obvious. Being my first time, I have done a number of things wrong, which I was able to correct, and some other things wrong I wish I could go back and correct.

My biggest issues right now are what to do for the backdrop in the middle, tracks to span the connection between tables, and issues with power loss at turnouts.

The backdrop is obviously double-sided, and I would like to use photo backdrops on both sides. Not the ones you buy, but making my own, and then having Kinko’s or someone print it out for me. I currently have a styrene backdrop that is too tall, as it tilts over. I will cut it down to size, but I still think it will tilt over. I also have thought of using hardboard, but one side of that is smooth, and one side is rough, which may show up when I adhere the photo backdrop to the rough side I think. The backdrop is designed to pull out of the slot it rests in, for easy transport. Another dumb question I had is - if the backdrop is curved on the layout, but when I pull it out it becomes straight, would that af

Nevermind.

Buy a 4x8 sheet, cut it down the middle lengthwise into two 2x8 sheets and bond them back to back.

I’m glad to see you’re using a center divider. I think 4x8s (or 5x9) look better like that rather than being able to see the entire layout. Basically you’ll have a 2.5 x 18 shelf layout.

If you have no plans to move it in the near future, then just lay the track normally. If you decide to move, get a razor saw and cut the track.

Steve S

Great job overall…impressive work.

On the turnout power issue, can you tell if the loco is losing power supply or creating a short? If the former, you may want to power the isolated frogs (you can see the black plastic isolating gaps on each frog rail). There are several ways to power a frog, which requires switching the frog “polarity” (in DCC it’s called something else, maybe phase) with the alternate routings. If using Tortoise machines, those have aux contacts that can be used. Some folks use a circuit board called a frog juicer, which believe can handle 6 turnouts per board(??).

Also, if your track is not soldered at the turnout rail joiners to adjacent track, many folks add feeders to the turnout rail ala the “power to every track” concept. Just two feeders are needed, as jumpers (you can see them underneath) power the needed rails (except the frog) for each phase.

Welcome.

For my divider I used 1/4" plywood, which was smooth on both sides. I think for attaching photos you would want to put a coat of sealer on before attaching the photos.

I used a slot cut in a 2"x4" to hold mine and still have it removeable. Another way is to use small shelf brackets back to back, attached to the base and just far enough apart to hold the divider securely.

Have fun,

Richard

I did the razor saw trick already, but because it was curved flextrack, they did not stay in place well. I guess I didn’t do a good enough job glueing them down?

I am pretty sure

I am pretty sure it’s a short.

Anyone have any idea how to get my pictures to show up in the message?

Go over to the General Discussion portion of these forums and there is a thread on just that. At the moment it is on the first page, but close to going to page 2.

Good luck,

Richard

Thank you! I guess I was copying and pasting the wrong URL for each photo. More photos below:

Now for the other side of the layout…

Lots more work to do here yet. I am planning on building my first scratchbuilt structure following the Lance Midheim formula of adding photos of a real building onto styrene.

Nice layout!

Looking great Greg!

I’m glad you got the photo posting down so you can share with us. Keep those photos coming of your project.

Derek

Thanks for the compliments. I will definitely post more pictures. I am adding on to the big grain elevator on the industrial side next. The area in front of it will be a storage area for containers. I love how containers look on layouts. Instant urban feel to them. Oh, and I bought a cell tower kit to go in that area as well.

Your photos are excellent. I am especially intrigued by your very realistic trees. I just finished making 300 trees, using Super Trees and sage trunks. Do you use “Scenic Express Super Trees”,or what? Get that photo backdrop pasted on the backdrop before it gets too late to reach it. Bob Hahn

Well some of the trees are realistic and some not so much. They probably just look better in photos. I used a combination of Woodland Scenics trees for the most part. Mostly the already built trees, which do not look as good, but are actually cheaper, and then the Fine Leaf Foliage kits where you make the trees, and they look much better. I also have a couple of pre-built trees here and there from Bachmann I believe. Those are OK, but the trunks don’t look very realistic. I really want to upgrade a lot of the trees when I have the money to do it. The nice thing about the trees is that they will easily come out, and then new ones easily go right back in the same spot. Are you not satisfied with the Super Trees? I thought those were supposed to be pretty good.

The backdrop pulls straight out, so I can add the image any time. It’s just a matter of deciding on what I want the actual backdrop to be. Right now its styrene, and I have had several suggestions made for alternates, but the slot I cut for the backdrop (and it can not get any bigger) is not large enough for some of the suggestions to work. Thanks for looking!