I went to BILLS TRAIN AND TRACK a few days ago and picked up a Budd Baggage-Lounge car. Walthers was out of the unlettered versions, so Bill ordered one in the New York Central scheme since it comes with a black underframe. Here’s Walthers photo of it:
(The shell’s color didn’t matter since it’s destined to go for a paint strip swim!)
I decided to take on the challenge of removing the roof. Based on reports from modelers on the Yahoo Forums, I was anticipating a 10 to 15 minute wrestling match!
Sincerely to my surprise…the roof came off in less than 2 minutes! I took a few quick photos as I proceeded, which you’ll see below.
I used the “Modified Twist Method”. With one hand on each end, I VERY slowly twisted the body back and forth. Approximately 12 to 15 seconds later I heard a “PLIP” sound and saw that a tiny gap opened up between the roof and body on the side facing me, towards the baggage door.
I slowly twisted the body some more and then saw a small gap open on the same side, towards the lounge section.
On the opposite side of the car, the roof was tightly pinched. I twisted the car some more but the roof didn’t move.
Next, I gripped the roof by the vents over the baggage door end with one hand. With the other hand, I held the body down firmly on the sides of that same end. I gently wiggled the roof in an arching motion (side to side) from 10 to 15 seconds. I felt it loosen, proceeded to slowly pulled it up and the entire roof/glazing unit sl
Looking forward to your dressing up of this affordable passenger car.
The extra weight will certainly be helpful if feeling lighter than the typical Walthers car. I think they get those pretty darn close to right and I’ve rarely needed to add anything with them. So long as there’s an easy place to put it in balanced fashion, this is one thing I don’t mind doing myself.
That whole deal with opening Walthers cars does seem intimidating at first. After all, there’s your shiny new passenger car in your mitts…and you want me to do WHAT to it?[^o)]
Thanks! I’m looking forward to working on this car.
Painting the interiors and adding window shades/blinds will improve their appearance nicely. These appear to be the same, good looking interiors that come in Walthers Proto Line passenger cars.
Modelers on the other forums have criticized the Walthers Mainline passenger cars because they:
Don’t come with flush fitting windows, and feature one-piece transparent panels that are a basic throwback to the 1970s production Con Cor 85ft streamlined cars.
The same underframe details are used for each type of car.
Imho, considering that they come with detailed interiors, nicely detailed trucks that roll very well, and a detailed underbody, imho they are a decent deal as you can find them, online, by some dealers (and ebay) in the mid-$20 range. Not bad as “filler” or “standin cars”.
Although I normally purchase the older run Walthers units on Ebay, I got this for one reason only: As a “stand in” car for this car:
It’s been a long stretch, but I am back to working on passenger equipment again and am picking up where I left off with this one. I’ve taken a few photos which I’ll post soon.
Quick question: Does anyone know if any model manufacturer or cottage business is producing flush fitting windows for these cars? Amazingly, neither the glazing from the Walthers Proto versions or the old Rivarossi Budds fit the window openings at all.
There were rumors a year or so back about someone interested in producing glazing for these Walthers Mainline units, but I haven’t heard or read of any “Yay” or “Nay” updates.
I have ten (10) of those cars and didn’t have one bit of a problem getting the roofs off…got them last yr. about this same time. I added handrails grabs, their metal trucks and SMD light bar inside. The window glazing that comes with it does not appear bad to My eyes…has about the correct tint. If You do decide to put lights in it. You either have to paint the interior roof black and about a 1/4’’ at the curved portion of the roof and part of the window glazing to prevent light bleed through. Even though the roof sits very tight on the seam, light still will bleed through. I used 1/2 wide black Automotive pin-stripe tape when doing mine and it worked perfect. With the metal trucks/light bar, the car is somewhat heavier and have not experienced any problems so far. I do have broad curves…no grades though.
Should have mentioned the reason why I’m seeking “flush fitting” windows.
As stated, I’m freelancing a “Stand in” version of this car:
This is what my unit looked like, before the recent Super Clean bath:
I need to plate up a few more windows, to achieve the basic appearance. Easiest method is to basecoat and metalize the windows as the shell is being sprayed. When finished, the once “transparent glass” will then look like stainless steel plates! “Easy Peasy!” [:D][:P]
But unfortunately these cars don’t come with “Flush Fitting” windows.
But even with flush fitting windows…would there not still be a line around the window edge? Why not fill the windows in with styrene sheet, same thickness as the body. If need be, fill in the edges with Squadron putty, then do the finish work. You would not even have to do anything to the existing windows…no cutting etc. they should still fit in with the covered windows. Seems easier…to Me anyway!
Yes… I want the window slots to be visible…just like the prototypes. Look carefully at the prototype photo I posted on my previous posts. You can see the outline of the window slots. Here’s an example on another car:
That is one of the features that, for me, makes modeling SCL’s passenger equipment so interesting.
Whatever trips Your trigger…looks to Me though, like they got the sheet metal out of the junk pile with all the dents and waviness…unless of course, that’s what You are looking for…In that case…use .010’’ styrene/ABS sheet and go right over the existing windows…looks like that’s what they did.
Years ago, before Alclad2, I used this stuff on an Empire State Express fluted side locomotive and a few passenger cars.
I would tape a strip of waxed paper and a strip of wood or something to back-up where you want to fill in the window then carefully fit in styrene the same thickness as the wall and cement in place.
With the bare metal foil you might be able to completely cover the window-band area after you finish the car with the Alclad and top coat. I’m not sure how well the Alclad would adhere to the foil. OR you could carefully cut shorter strips of the foil and place it where the window has been removed. As Frank points out, and I’ve seen this too, some shops didn’t do a very good job of matching the stainless where the window fill was done.
It takes a little practice but the results would be very nice.
Also, I’ve been using your Alclad hints for some of my own passenger car projects and I’m really thankful for your on-line tips you posted [Y]
This PRR twin-unit diner was once painted tuscan red
The diner, especially, stands out with the beautifully detailed interior. I’m surprised that you didn’t post a thread on these works of art (You still can!). We definitely need more passenger rail related threads. I’m grateful and glad that the info I’ve posted about stainless steel finishes was helpful.
Re: Windows. I’m considerng the options that you and Frank have suggeted. Thank you.
Yes, it’s some railroads didn’t do a neat job of shuttering the window openings, other shops made a decent effort.
It is a bit ironic in that had Walthers Bagg-Lounge been produced under the Proto Line, the windows would not even be an issue.
[quote user=“gmpullman”]
Hi, Antonio
Maybe you could use “Bare Metal Foil” as a cover plate over the blanked-out windows?
Years ago, before Alclad2, I used this stuff on an Empire State Express fluted side locomotive and a few passenger cars.
I would tape a strip of waxed paper and a strip of wood or something to back-up where you want to fill in the window then carefully fit in styrene the same thickness as the wall and cement in place.
With the bare metal foil you might be able to completely cover the window-band area after you finish the car with the Alclad and top coat. I’m not sure how well the Alclad would adhere to the foil. OR you could carefully cut shorter strips of the foil and place it where the window has been removed. As Frank points out, and I’ve seen this too, some shops didn’t do a very good job of matching the stainless where the window fill was done.
