( Sorry about the photo quality my tri-pod is loaned out)
My new layout, (#4), a bridge-line that takes place in Eastern Missouri, will connect the CB&Q near hiway 79, then west to Hawk Point then south along hiway 47 across the old Wabash / Norfolk & Western RR line near Warrenton thru Missouri Wine Country to connect with MKT near hiway 94. Since this is “my” railroad most places will have the “flavor” of this area but maynot be perfect to the prototype. Time will be pre Burlington Northern (1970).
I’m now putting down cork road-bed on the first section ( a 32" x 80" hollow core door), this is 1/2 of a 2 door town.
The things that will be different on this layout:
#1 This will be a point to point RR built on Hollow-core doors along two walls, so it will be in sections.
#2 It’s going to be less track, no yard, no switch machines, open staging, & simple engine service area.
#3 Just a few small towns with one or two sidings.
#4 More open scenery between towns.
#5 Interchange with RR on each end.
#6 Keep everything simple so I can spend more time running then repairing!
I’m always open to comments and/or suggestions as I’m looking to learn anything that I can that could help make this hobby more fun!
It looks like a well thought out design is under way! Assuming it is HO, how wide did you make the road where the yellow Freightliner is in the 1st photo? I like the setting…the road isn’t crowded or too narrow as I’ve seen on some layouts.
Looks like you’re off to a good start. I also advocate the K.I.S.S. approach to modeling a shelf layout, and a mid-sized point-to-point regional road is the way to go for those that do. If I had it - building benchwork - to do over again, I’d also go the hollow-core door route with simple prefab brackets to hold up the sections. However, I’ve got so many precut birch plywood 1x4’s that open-grid boxes is what I’m doing.
1st off…good luck on your layout…this is my 4th layout & I’ve been down the path of all the bench-work…switch machines…hard shell ect
The hollow-core door supported on brackets was my choice for a number of reasons.
One was all turnouts will be hand thrown, so no switch machines to mount.
I can get started faster on laying the track.
The cost of the door was only $23.00…& are light-weight, easy to handle, and can be moved at a later date if necessary. Also are thick enough to mount the backdrop & front panel to.
I can build it in sections…& since I enjoy doing the scenery the most I can finish each section before I move to the next.
Scratch and Dent doors can be had for $10 at most Big box stores. Keep an eye out for them their worth it I got 3 36" x 80" Oak Hollow Core Doors for $15 each awhile back. You have to check frequently but they are there.
I did ask if they had any, but my luck they only had 1st line. There are some discount building supply stores in the area, but the nearest one is about 20 miles away. I wanted to get started while I had some extra time so I got the full price door. You bet I’m still on the lookout as I will need more doors to fit my full track plan.
hey what kind of turnouts are you using? I’m using caboose industries groundthrows, but the holes in the Shinohara turnouts I have are too small and I’m stumped on what the best way to widen them would be
If you have a pin vice or take your blade out of your exacto knife and insert a drill bit. Works great, you would be surprised as to how little effort it takes.
Back to the original post.
I like your theory on reducing the maintainance. Thats exactly what I did, although I do have a few powered turnouts. I did build a couple partitions in the garage ( layout room ) to restrict my layout.
Warning; Once you get the trains running good you may just do nothing but that. Thats where I am. I would rather run some trains and do some switching than work on the layout. I can picture it finished, maybe thats the problem.
Shinohara…(from the 1980’s from my old layout)…I used an x-acto blade to trim the little “nub” that covers the far hole on the switch bar. Be careful if you try to make the hole bigger because if it gets too big it might affect how the “throw” holds the points.
