After years of working with various forms of plaster, putty, and joint compound to build scenic bases, I recently discovered a product that I find superior to all of them. It is a powdered joint compound that is mixed like plaster. This product may have been around a long time for all I know but I just recently discovered it. It comes in mixes that have varying setting times and I opted for the 90 grade mix which has a working time of 60 minutes and hardens in about 90 minutes. This gives it a much longer working time than any plaster product I have used. It also has an advantage over regular joint compound that comes in a tub in that the thickness can be varied depending on the ratio of water to powder. It’s also been my experience that the joint compound that comes in a tub dries out after the tub as been opened, even if the plastic lid is replaced tightly. For some applications I like to mix it fairly soupy so I can brush it on the surface and smooth it easily but if a need more body to it, I mix it to a consistency of the tub compound. I’ve recently used it in place of white glue for Howard Zane’s red resin paper scenery method described in January RMC. I find it adheres better to the resin paper and creates a stronger shell. I’ve also used it to pave a long road and to blend the seams of plaster of paris rock molds. I discovered this product at Lowe’s but I would guess it is available elsewhere. I am curious if others have tried this material and what they thought of it.
What is the name of the product?
Thanks,
Steve B.
The brand name I got is Sheetrock. I bought it in an 18 lbs bag. It was in the section with the wallboard at Lowe’s.
That’s good to know.
Sounds like drywall putty, which is used to patch holes and fill seams between drywall boards. I know it’s sold in putty form, but didn’t realize it was also sold in powder form. I have heard of other people using as a scenery material before, but I haven’t heard too much about how it compares to other stuff (hydrocal, etc.). It would be nice do do a side-by-side comparison. That would be a good project for my current layout/test bed.
I believe the general name for it is “Quick Set” or “Speed Set” because it’s setup time is on the bag i.e…90 It is a final coat sandable topping compound that is put on after the joint compound. You can purchase it at Lowes or Home Depot or any Home Building Supply store.
After setting, this material will not have the strength of hydrocal or other harder plasters which can be used to create a shell that is self supporting. I do believe it has sufficient strength to be used over the top of a supporting frame such as the cardboard strips and resin paper method that Howard Zane introduced. The cardboard web is fairly stiff on it’s own and should provide enough support to allow use of this material as a finish coat.
The USG version in the brown paper bag is Durabond in 45,60 and 90 min.
assuming it’s the same stuff i’ve worked with , it’s drywall compound not putty . basically the same thing as in the plastic buckets but you have to add the water and mix it yourself . more mess but you can vary the thickness and only mix as much as you need . probably less expensive than buying the buckets too
Durabond is much harder then regular drywall mud.
Nick
One way to reduce the inclination of this sort of material to dry out in the tub… and to some extent in use for scenery… is to press clingfilm onto the surface expelling the air before closing the tub in the ordinary way. It’s also quite useful to keep most of the surface of the stuff in the tub covered while working if you are working with small amounts and concentrating on detailing as you go… this reduces the amount of goo exposed to air and the time it is exposed for.
As always… test before relying on suggestion [:P]
I still prefer to use hydrocal for acess pull-outs, or at the bottom or rivers or harbors, where a tight seal is required before applying Magic Water (or similar products). For a vertical scenic area, at the head of the stairway access to my layout (which is much touched), I find that prepared Patching Cement,(over wire screening), sculpted to look like a mountain cut-out, stands the wear very well. Bob
To save your plaster in the tub or mixed plaster…pour water 1/2 inch or so on top to compleatly cover, wipe down sides to prevent dry cake build up. Reopen when ready to use, pour off water and your ready to go…very quick and effecient…John