First I want to share my new favourite building materials. 1/16" sheet polystyrene and ceiling t-bar angle track. I used both to install facia and backdrops on my layout this fall. Observe the following photos:
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A couple things to note in this photo. First, instead of using pieces of 1x1 wood I used t-bar track. Look to the left edge of the yard and you can see the track supporting the styrene. I used sticky-backed magnet tape to secure the styrene to the t-bar track. The t-bar track is easy to work with cause you can cut it with tin snips and punch holes with an awl. No splitting wood, no sawdust.
Second, note the piece of 1/2" copper pipe in the lower right corner. This is a built in lamp-holder. The pipe is secured to the benchwork and will end flush with the surface scenery where I can place my el-cheapo Ikea lamp for temporary work lighting. I did this in numerous places around the layout - there’ll be another photo down below.
Here’s another pic from the opposite direction. You can see another copper pipe lamp holder.
Today I took my first stab at creating landform for scenery. I started using wire screen but it was very difficult to work so I switched to cardboard strip lattice. I then started covering the form with used dryer-sheets dipped in plast
It looks to me as though the OP is using the ‘L’ shaped part of the T bar system that goes against the outside walls of the room. That is the piece that the actual T bar rests on at the wall but it is in the shape of an ‘L’, not a ‘T’.
It is a good idea - fast, cheap, easy, clean, and sturdy enough in shorter lengths.
Yes - I am using the ‘L’ rail used on the wall when installing a t-bar ceiling. This picture is the backside of the backdrop shown in the previous pix.
How will I deal with the lamp-holder-pipe-holes…? I will probably just put a bush over the pipe so that I can easily relocate the lamp to that location if needed.
Dwayne, you may notice that placement of the cardboard strips close to the trackage may not leave enough space for additional scenery materials, especially if any plaster castings are to be placed for a cut. A graded embankment only as possibly this pic shows should work. A few times I have cut foam or placed the scenery base just too close and needed to tear it out to allow more clearance.
You also need to take into account, prototype grading on a spot like this would also allow for water drainage and enough clearance for any minor erosion/ washout or falling rock if a cut.
The base can always be built up to your liking, but it’s tough to work w/ if done too close to the tracks.
Putting cardboard strips next to the track like that may be better if they were attached UNDER the subroadbed instead of on the side of it. That will give you the space you need for grading and drainage.
Yes I struggled with the grade in that narrow space. My goal is a scene in Alberta where the N. Saskatchewan River cuts through the Alberta plains. There is no exposed rock, just sand and dirt over clay with low grass and scrub. The angle of the hill is my recolection of climbing that same river valley as a young soldier on exercise.
I am considering cutting that section back a bit to make room for a ditch, however when we crawled up those slopes I don’t recall a ditch on the slope side of the ROW.
For clarification this scene is a mine branch in the declining days of its life.
I like both ideas. Questions and thoughts, did you use new copper pipe or was it scrap pieces from a left over plumbing job? Did you consider using pvc pipe versus using copper, since copper is pretty pricey, or even a piece of wood with a drilled hole? Schrubbery, rock, small shed or some other feature over the hole would more than suffice hiding it. Thanks for the ideas.
Hi Willy, 1/2" copper pipe selected for internal diameter, rigidity and availability (left over from previous project). Your other materials are viable options.
Dwayne, if you want to extend your working time with plaster, add a little vinegar to it. It really works. It’ll smell a little until the plaster sets up. Then, you won’t even notice it. Extending the working time comes in handy when/if you’re attaching rock molds to your layout.
