I am getting ready to start on my first layout. I am starting small with a 2’ x 4’ layout. I am going with N for space considerations.
I have found a few N layouts that I like, but I have a question about what kind of track I should go with since there are so many choices.
I just want a good combination of quality, price (not crazy expense) and expandability. I don’t want to buy a bunch of track and realize that it won’t really work that well for a bigger layout in the future.
I was going to buy a Bachman starter set just to get everything I need to start, then buy more of the EZ track, but I am not really sure if that is what I should really do. I don’t see using the EZ for a larger layout in the future. I have seen track plans that I like using Atlas Code 80 and with Kato Unitrack.
So any suggestions or opinions on good reasonably priced track would be greatly appreciated.
So far the layouts that I have priced the track for have come out to about $300-$400 in track, so I want that investment to not be a waste of money after my first layout…
I am using Kato Unitrack for my N scale layout and I am quite happy with it. With a dab of paint and a little ballast, it can be made to look a lot more realistic.
I have used the Peco code 55 and have no complaints. They have a very good selection of turnouts, and the track is about as robust as you could want. The only drawback that I have noticed is the tie spacing is wider than what is used in North America. But after painting and ballasting, you don’t notice it that much. The price is in the ballpark with the other manufacturers. Their turnouts have a spring to hold the points against the stock rails, so you don’t need to purchase ground throws or under-the-table switch machines if you don’t want to. And if you do want these, it is very easy to remove the spring.
How serious are you about building a real model railroad versus a toy train layout?
With a toy train layout people reuse their track because they don’t add glue and ballast. Adding glue and ballast makes a model railroad look more real. If you do that, don’t plan on reusing the track and turnouts because they may not come up without breaking.
If you are just getting started and want to build a model railroad and learn all the techniques needed to do that, use inexpensive track like Atlas. They have some funky ties at the ends of the turnouts that should be removed to make it look more real, and it will work OK.
Atlas is OK track, but there is better that also costs a little more when you are finished learning and get ready to build a serious model railroad.
I use a mix of PECO code 80 and Atlas code 80 (flex and sectional) for main lines, PECO code 55 for spurs, branches and most sidings. All my switches are PECO. PECO 55 is 100% compatable with code 80 and is probably the strongest N gauge track due to its double flange design.
The standard track (without built in roadbed) is a little more difficult to lay. While it can be used without roadbed, in most cases, people place it on a roadbed such a Midwest cork or Woodland Scenics foam. I prefer cork. (1/2 width HO cork for mains and N cork for most other tracks).
KATO track is an excellent product.
Using only sectional track (both the types with and without roadbed) restrict layout design somewhat. KATO can be used with standard code 80 flex track and sectional track. The KATO joiners are snap fit and easy to remove and so that standard joiners substituted.
As long as you use the same code of track, all brands should be quite compatable.
If you start with a pre-ballasted track, like E-Z Track, you can add to it with a little modification. Mixing brands of pre-ballasted track is a bit difficult, as they all have different methods of “hooking” together. However, if you use unballasted track (either flex track or sectional) and a cork roadbed, that is about the same height, all you have to do is cut off the connecting tab off the end where the two come together.
400 dollars shipped is what I spent on a box of 100 pieces of Atlas cd 55 flex. I doubt that you would use much of it for your layout, and the left overs will build you an empire when you are ready. David B
After I asked my question, I did realized that if I do glue and ballast the track it will not be usable for a future layout. I didn’t really think about that as I was typing!
I also over estimated the cost track that I need for the 2x4 N layout. I am looking at more like $200 for track instead of $400 which is a huge difference…since I still have lots of other stuff to buy. Like trains.
