I’m in the process of building a scenic ridge layout with atlas code 55 track and I just got my first 2-10-2. The engine is amazing and a thing of beauty…
HOWEVER
as it runs through my atlas switches, it seems to almost bounce like it is driving over rough terrain. I’m using #5 switches, however I think it might be that the driver flanges are hitting the metal base between the rail and frog. Isn’t the 2-10-2 compatable with code 55?
Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so any ideas to reduce this bounce other then changing out the drivers? [xx(]
I’m thinking about cutting a ‘flange’ notch into the base of the frog, but there are 11 of them to do on my current pike and i’m already thinking about building the basement-fulling empire with code 55 track.
Hi. I am a bit out of my element in that I am in HO, never had a 2-10-2, don’t use Atlas, and certainly not #5 turnouts.
Have you checked all axles for wheel gauge? Are your rails gauged properly? Do the points lie against their stock rails well, and with a very fine point to them…flanges are not picking the points? No plastic flashing in the frog?
If those things, and flange alignment front-to-rear from axle to axle, are good, then your driver base might be too long for the sharper #5 turnouts. You’d think a genuine #5 turnout would be okay, but maybe it is sharp just enough that it causes the loco to lift and lunge along in an effort to clear itself where it is binding.
Granted i don’t have an NMRA Gauge, so i can’t check the alignment however this bouncing happens even when the locomotive goes straight through the switch, not the diverging route.
The 2-10-2 can negogiate 11in radius curves, so it runs through #5s with minimal problems, save for the off-road style bouncing.
Okay, but if the frog is plastic-filled, and generally overfilled, the flanges will ride up on the plastic regardless of which direction it travels.
Please consider getting an NMRA gauge because it is entirely possible that you have a wheel out of place. Also possible is that a coupler wire, the one hanging down if you have that type, is low and making contact with something as it traverses the turnout. So, perhaps a gauge for the couplers and an adjustment pliers would be useful. This problem can be detected with some careful observation in good light and with slow and repeated passes of the loco through the turnout.
I use the Atlas code 55 track on my layout and have many #5 turnouts.
You need to get a NMRA standards gage in order to access the problem correctly.
I had problems with the guard rails and the frogs on the # 5 turn outs and had to do a little filing to open them up a little, however you need to be sure that all of the locos wheels are in gage as well.
It seems that the #5 turnouts are more fussy than the #7’s.
All of this is great info, and it’s all right on the money, but if your loco is “off-road bouncing” on just plain track, the flanges on the wheels are too big. Those flanges do not conform to the NMRA’s RP25 code for flange depth. You’ll either need to switch track (not an easy thing), turn down the flanges on a lathe, or maybe the folks at North West Short Line can help out. They often have just the thing you need in instances like this.
Also, the Atlas code 55 #5 turnout frog is a bit shallow. The first ones they came out with wee very shallow and they had to “correct” them. I still think they’e a bit too shallow. You can hand file them, but because of the metal they’re made out of, it’ll be very slow going. You can also fire up the Dremel tool, but be careful you don’t heat the part too much and melt the plastic ties. The last solution…switch to different turnouts, like the #7’s.
That fix would mean a substantial revision of your track plan, so it is probably not palatable. HOwever, I do think the advice is good, and would also recommend that you go up a full size at least. I use #6 in my yard to good effect, and use #8 or higher on the main, and let me tell you, am I ever glad I went that way. A couple of new locos, such as a Duplex, would have been essentially impossible to run on anything less than a #6 and slow order.
I know, it’s a pretty unsavory solution. The Atlas code 55 line includes #5’s, #7’s, and #10’s for turnouts. If you want a #6 you could go with Micro Engineering code 55. They only come in a #6.