Hello! I am having to start my layout over… I had a small N Scale layout before that would run GPs fine, but now that I’ve acquired a couple of SD70MACs, they don’t like the inner curves too much… With my new layout I’m looking to use as much flex track as possible, but I’ve found flex to be a grade A pain in the butt… any helpful tips?
I see that you’ve been here for a while , but this is your first post, so [#welcome] to the participation part of things. [swg]
That would benefit from a little further information.
Flex will allow you to lay track in almost any configuration required, but that also includes configurations on which your trains won’t be able to operate. If we knew the amount of space you had available, the type of operation you’re hoping to create and anything else which would shed some light on the “pains” from which you’re suffering, perhaps more help would be forthcoming.
I work in HO and use mostly Atlas Code83 flex. It’s very flexible and forms curves, including easements, very easily, while some other brands are less flexible and require that you shape them into the required curve. This is usually easier to achieve if you use a trammel to draw the radius directly onto the layout.
For straight track, flex doesn’t always stay straight as you’re putting it down - a straightedge or drawn line can help, but the best tool to detect irregularities is your eyes - sight down the length of the track and those areas will be immediately obvious.
Wayne
Hi:
I’m also in the process of building a new layout and i wanted to use Atlas code 55 rail and turnouts. However, Atlas code 55 #7 and #10 turnouts and flex track are almost impossible to get hold of, unless you want to pay extortion prices on e-bay.
So, i decided to use Atlas code 55 sectional track with Micro Engineering turnouts and also ME flex for the sidings. ME track has slightly wider tie spacing than Atlas, which fit the prototype for sidings.
All in all it has worked out well. I’ve been able to do easements by using several different radius of curved track and it looks pretty good, and operates well. Incidently Atlas flex is a pain as the rail seperates from the ties too easily if you are not careful. Not so with sectional. Just cut off the horrible looking end ties when laying and replace others underneath when the track is laid.
Yes, there is a lot more soldering to be done and it may not be the ideal solution, BUT you can get on with building your layout as sectional code 55 is easily available. If we sit around waiting for Atlas to get the code 55 availability sorted out we will never build anything. Hope this helps.
Ian
I, too, would be interested in some additional information. I am new to the hobby and built a small oval with sidings using nothing but Peco code 55 flex track and Peco turnouts. I was pleasantly surprised with how easy it was to shape and lay the track. My first experience was with sectional track (Kato Unitrack) and don’t think I will ever go back to sectional. The complete control of flex track has won me over.
I have to say, if you are handling flex track roughly enough to break the rails off the ties, how do your locos and cars survive with details intact?
–Randy
Although I normally work in HO, I gave a track clinic at the N Scale Enthusiast’s (formerly the N Scale Collector’s) convention in Milwaukee last year (what a great group of folks that is by the way) and showed how my HO method using flexible, water clean up latex adhesive caulk works just fine for laying N scale flex track on cork roadbed. I use T pins to temporarily hold the flex track in place if the flex track is the “flexy” kind (Atlas for example) that wants to revert to straight.
Here are the steps
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I lay a bead of caulk on the cork, flatten and smooth it with a spatula knife or one of those “your name here” fake American Express cards that I get in the junk mail, and then carefully place the flex track to match the center line of the cork roadbed.
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I lightly press the track into the wet caulk with a roller meant for wallpaper application.
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I then use a tangent or curved track template that runs between the rails to make the straight track very straight, and the curve also consistent radius except at the ends where I had easement curves marked for the cork roadbed.
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Then I pin it where needed. Those pins will be pulled away when the caulk is set.
My preference is to solder two pieces of flex track together BEFORE laying them but that does add a bit to the complication and is not essential. I also weather my track before laying it and touch it up again after it is curved with a paint pen such as Testors sold.
In the clinic I also showed how the appearance of Atlas and similar “train set” sectional track can be improved by clipping away the plastic tie “D” shape at the ends and then inserting new ties under the rails when the track is laid using caulk. The rail holds gauge well enough for the gap. I passed around a sample bit of track laying wi
Hey guys I’m building an add-on to my N layout, the old layout was given to me actually, and the inner left corner is too tight too. So on my new layout I used the standard curve pieces of non-flex track as a radius guide to bend the flex track. That worked without a problem. I’m not sure how much space you guys have, but maybe redoing your corners with the same general guide would help? Maybe redirect the straight track coming into the curve to widen that out earlier to help give it a more gradual corner? Just some thoughts! Good luck!
Modeling in Nscale, I use flextrack everywhere on my layout.
My roadbed is cut in plywood and follow the plan I etablished, I used compass and lot of geometry to trace the track on the plywood before cutting the roadbed.
This was time consuming and hard to follow precisely the track plan.
My plan are now simplified, I etablish the design of the line and I etablish on the line were the crossover, turnouts need to be. Only these parts follow precise measurements of the layout room to be sure where they need to be.
Now I just place the turnout where they need to be on the plywood and to join them I use a yardstick of pine soft enough to follow the countour of the track line.
It doesn’t matter if the joining line is not straight or curved like my plan, as I mentionned only the place of turnouts need to be accurate, the track join them, only that counts.
Here and there I put nails to keep the stick in his place and when happy whith the design of the track, I trace the line of the track on the plywood, these give me the center line of the track; it’s remains just to cut the plywood rodbedit.
The result are amazing because the yardstick give extremly smooth flowing track, nearly natural, I just check the radius to not go under the minimal I use.
On long run I use the yardstick method by attachig it on the riser and when happy whith the design I use it as a gluing guide for a spline roadbed. I usea spline of masonite cut in 2cm wide strip glued togheter whit white glue
The yardstick method also give natural easement on a curve whith a adjacent straight track.
The flextrack is placed as usual, cork is placed on the rodbed and I glue the flextrack to it whith a acrylics glue.