All,
The re-release of the N scale GHQ PRR L1s 2-8-2 conversion kit for the Kato Mike is making me want to upgrade my GHQ L1s 2-8-2 I built when I first joined N scale in 2002. It’s still DC (even through I run DCC). Also, I never added an operating headlight (I just attached the blank headlight casting). Lastly, I have a dummy coupler on the pilot. I just ordered the traction tire replacement. I have these questions three:
Question the first: I was going to use Digitrax DZ something decoder. I’m not a big fan of the TCS I used for the 2-8-0 because of the danged Hex programming. Can I do better but affordable? Also, I’m planning on sticking the decoder in the tender.
Question the second: How do I convert my blank headlight to an operating one? LED? Fiber optic? Does anyone have pictures?
Question the third: What MT coupler conversion works best for the pilot?
Thanks!
Here she is with her dark headlight:
David,
I’ve converted three Kato mikes to DCC, two of my own and one for my neighbor.
There are detailed instructions linked to the DigiTrax web site. They may include some information with reference to your headlight. It’s a tedious operation but I think it’s worth it.
Micro Trains has a coupler conversion for the Kato mikes. Their #2002 kit includes a coupler for the pilot and a coupler for the tender. If you have a later release mike, the pilot coupler is a #2003. You wouldn’t need the rear, which in the kit, is a #1128.
I wonder if MT #2002 will work with the step pilot from the GHQ kit.
Nevertheless, thanks for the great info! I’ll check out the Digitrax site next!
In regaurds to the headlight, I would use a SMT LED as a base for it and build up a new headlight around it.
David B
Actually, I asked this question in another forum too.
Max Magliaro has done this conversion, and what he did was drill a hole through the casting, run some .020" fiber optic tube down through it to the LED in the loco and used a soldering iron to flatten the fiber optic tube. He then used Krystal Clear to make the lens.
That sounds elegant!
What I would do is use a piece of pc board tie (for hand laying), cut it in a circular shape (the size of the headlight), score it to electrically accept the SMT LED, solder the SMT to it, solder the brass wire leads to it (doubles as the mounting bracket) then mount to the boiler. You then buy the headlight casting and attach it directly on the SMT/PC board assembly. Use the appropriate resistor and you have a great headlight without using room in the body of the boiler (except for the resistor and the wires).
But that is just me…I dont like fiddling with fiber optics.
David B