I have been a life long HO modeler but, I have been forced to switch to N scale do to space restraints (apartment dwelling). I have been trying to find anything on good radiuses for N scale. If I am running modern equipment, what minimum radius will support running Superliners and 89’ flatcars and still look good? For example should I stick with 15" all the way around or start with 16" for transitions and then go down to 14"? My mind is still in HO measurements!
First of all, Welcome to the forum![#welcome]
Second, Welcome to N-scale![#ditto]
I don’t run large (long) equipment like that on my layout, but I imagine that anything over 11” radius would work on a functional basis. However, I can’t speak for appearance sake. The only thing I can suggest is to purchase a package of Atlas 11” radius snap track, put several together and then put two or three of your “beasts” on it. This will give you a good visual aid without sinking too much money into it.
You will also find that, as you stated, there will be a bit of getting used to N-scale measurements.
Good luck!
Good suggestion from Mabruse
Coming down from a larger scale can be advantages , because you think “bigger”. 11" radius will probably work ok if space is tight . But larger looks better.
My rule of thumb is to build a N scale in no less than 2/3 the size you would build in HO. The same size is better.
I’ve set my hands on a full train(F7A-F7B and 8 Superliner cars)that I bought used.The former owner had replaced the original couplers with “Accumate” or similar couplers wich gives the train a great look as the cars roll much closer together.The downside is that they will derail on 11 in. radius curves as the cars get pinching at their corners.I’m now building a second main (had to enlarge my workbench)wich features 16 in. min. radius curves to accomodate this train.If it will be sufficient remains to be seen however.
Standard min. radius is 9 3/4 in. for N scale wich is sufficient for most locos,even the big diesels but they don’t look so great at it.But for 85’ cars,I’d go for 15 in. min. radius curves,and depending on couplers,it may not be enough.
Your long equipment will look best if you run it on 18" rad’s. That is my minimum on my N scale main with some broad, highly visible curves running at 22". I run 12" as a minimum on branches and sidings.
Ron
Thanks everyone. I went out and bought my foam baord (the base of hte layout) and a ton of flex track yeaterday. I can get about 16" turns into the space I have so, all is good. Now to just come up with a plan tha works!
We’re building our 1st n-scale layout too, and have space constraints (like building on a door). In “tests”, trains like the bullet train (very long cars) and the California Zephyr set run just fine on 11" curves (even at crazy speeds), the cars don’t visually “flow” around the curves. SO, 11" worls fine, but if you are picky about looks, you need something much, much bigger.
I’m running a just small loop right now with the 11.25" curves. My passenger cars, autoracks, and large tankers look kind of silly on the curves but are completely functional. So are my larger/longer locos–an Atlas SD60, LL E6A, E8A/B, Bachmann 8-40CWs. However, I just bought a Kato SD80MAC, and noticed that it ran a little funny in the curves. The flanges seem to binding a little bit in the curves and pressing against the insides of the rail.
11" radius works just fine for me, but appearance is sacrificed, I use it at the loop in one end of my layout as well as sidings, otherwise 19" is what I use. And I also have a kato SD90MAC which is almost identical to the SD80; and it works fine even on my 11" (it will actually go around 9 3/4", but with no cars)
I just had a thought about this last night. It’s probably just the wheel gauge on my Kato. Looking at it, it seems to fit very snugly between the rails, without the tiny bit of back and forth play that most of my other locos have.