n scale rail joiners

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Hi All!

Thanks for all the help in the past but I have a new question/problem. I have been putting together my nscale layout using all atlas components. I am using Atlas switches, atlas sectional track and flex track.

My problem is I can only get maybe one or two usable rail joiners out of maybe 10-15 of them. They just do not fit! I can’t get them to slide over the rails!

Anyone else have this problem?? Is there another manufacturer I could use?

Thanks!
Rob Snyder
Andover, NJ

2

I haven’t had the problem to that degree. There are a few in each pack that don’t want to cooperate, but I generally find a way to get them open enough to accept the rails. Micro Engineering also makes rail joiners for various code rail.

3

Check to make sure you have the right ones for the code of track you are using…

4

Bloodthirsty little buggers, aren’t they?

One of those mini screwdrivers will help to open them up a bit, but don’t make them too loose. Then a good pair of needlenose pliers to help coax them into place, just don’t cru***hem.

5

thanks to all the suggestions so far, I am using the correct joiners, Atlas code 80, wanted to use code 55 but I am too many older custom painted items with bigger flanges. I am going to try and pry them a bit, I always worry about loose joiners though and conductivity problems ya know? I am soldering every rail joint currently. I tried the needle nose but it wrecks the joiner when it won’t go on!

6

You might try taking a small, flat file and filing off just a tad on each side of the rail at the base. Also make sure, if you’ve cut the rail, there are no burrs on the bottom of the rail.
gtr

7

I belong to a club that sets up modular layouts for different shows in our area(Indiana),and get to use a lot of jointers. It makes a big difference if there are cut rails, which have deformation of the rail end. I carry a needle file to smooth the end. This helps in sliding the jointer into place. If you open the jointer be sure that you don’t get it large enough to effect the electrial conduction. Where the modules connect the splice section always has the jointer slid onto that splice section.

8

I use the needlenose pliers to grab just the very end of the joiner, not the part where it’s folded over.

9

I must [#ditto] this. If you grab the sides you will crush it together and it will never go on. They can be quidt stubborn anyway. I would not recomment prying them open more as they may fit loosely and cause alignment and electrical conductiviey problems, especially if you do not solder the rail joints. Using small needle nose pliars from the end can save many a cut and slashed finger tip, as the ends can be quite sharp.

Ron

10

I do open them up just a touch, if I’m going to solder them. If I’m not soldering them then no, they go on tight.

11

How are you cutting them apart? If there is any burr from the cut that might prevent them from going on the rail.

12

[#ditto] What everybody said above. I flatten the little ends that stick out with pliers to get rid of any deformation from cutting them apart. I file both sides of the rail web and the bottom of the rail–just a couple of light passes with a jewler’s file does it. I Hold the little flat sticking out piece with small needlenose pliers and push it on the rail. Works 9 times out of 10, but there’s always one that doesn’t want to cooperate.

13

I was laying some track this weedend after responding tho this thread and realized that using Atlas flextrack and rail joiners I have no trouble slipping them on to the track. What is difficult is slipping the Atlas joiners on to the rails on my Peco turnouts. The differenc in the track brands must be the difference.

Ron