N scale Red Oak

Comments MRR
1

Join the discussion on the following article:

N scale Red Oak

2

Interesting looking plan even if a bit basic. I can’t wait for more info. The CB&Q is my favorite so I’m looking forward to this series.

3

I can’t wait to see more!

4

Love this plan! I may try to adapt it to HO with tighter curves to make it 5’0" wide. Great operational and staging elements here…can’t wait to see more.

5

Neither can I;-))))

6

Like the plan - may actually try this plan. But I think I am going to use the Rock Island line in the 70’s. Can’t wait for more.

7

The Walthers #933-3803 Santa Fe-style depot is didcontinued

8

Just wish the plan presented in the Jan '15 issue was a little larger. It has great possibilities

9

Came just at the right time. Will make with some elevation and industry changes , but looks like a good starting place. Thanks for the ideas

10

Is there a list on what track pieces is needed. I am new to model railroading?

11

The operation looks like its one way out so Im just curious , how do you get a train that uses the branch line into the staging area and the power turned around to come out. I saw a picture you had of a train ,engine first going in with what looked like a consist that would be sticking out with no where to go. It seems like its a one way operation coming out with no way to go back in unless there is a plan for an extension like on the Virginia layout for turning and staging.

12

Timothy Karp, they aren’t using sectional (pieces of set size and shape) track like you seem to think. The only sectional track they are using are turnouts (switches). To link the turnouts together, they are using what is called flex-track, which comes in 36-inch sections, can be straight or bent to almost any radius of curve, and can be cut to different lengths with a tool called rail nippers. Using said rail nippers, they are cutting the flex-track to fit the space between the turnouts as according to above track plan.

Hope this helps! :slight_smile:

13

is there any special wiring concerns when using Peco electrofrogs with DCC?

14

For the Peco ElectroFrog Code55 used for this layout, the wiring is the same for DC or DCC. Basically do the following:

  1. Attach two wires to each piece of flex track, very important for DCC conductivity and safety.
  2. Then attach two wires to each turnout at the tie bar end of the switch.
  3. The frog rails are switched for polarity, automatically by the sprung tie bar which can be switched with just your finger.
  4. Add two insulated rail joiners to the two frog rails, to isolate them.
  5. Most important, do not paint the movable parts of the turnout so that electrical conductivity is assured.
  6. Best way to add wires is by soldering to the rails. But, wired rail joiners are also available from Peco.
  7. I have used this Peco Code55 track for 25 years, with both DC and DCC control.
  8. The Peco turnouts are a little more expensive but the sprung tie bar means that you do not need to purchase a switch machine or switch stand. Also, this track is very robust and conducts electricity well and stays clean longer.

Thanks, Tonkphilip, Carlsbad, CA.

15

Can we get an operation video for this?

16

Has anyone actually built this and if so did you develop a wiring plan for DC and if so, are you interested in sharing it? Also–can someone comment on the curve radii used on the main line? Based on the 36" width of the door it appears to be about 16" or 17".