I am thinking about building an N scale layout and want to know which code track is best or the most popular. I see several different codes out there 40, 55, 70 & 80.
Which one is the better choice and why?
Bill
Code 80 is the most popular, because it’s cheap and sturdy. Plus, it works with equipment whose flanges are deeper than NMRA RP25. I use it myself.
Don’t know anything about N scale code 70 except that it’s hard to fnd.
Code 55 is much more realistic than code 80. I assume it can be made to run as reliably as code 80 and it looks much, much better. However, you may need to change out some wheelsets on equipment to use the Atlas code 55 (lots of N scale stuff was made without paying heed to NMRA RP25). Plus you have to be very careful ballasting it.
Code 40 is hardcore. I don’t know what all’s available out there in code 40 that doesn’t involve turnout kits and some handlaying, though I could be wrong. You would have to be very, very careful about track laying and ballasting to get it to run right.
I chose carefree reliability and strength over scale appearance and went with code 80. If you have better tracklaying and ballasting skill than me (most people do!) then consider code 55 also.
Here’s what Atlas code 80 flextrack with Peco code 80 Insulfrog turnouts look like when painted, ballasted, and weathered.
Dave summed it well. To me what you choose is really a matter of preference. I’d keep it between Atlas Code 80, Atlas Code 55, or Peco code 55 because they are the easiest to find.
The code 55 products will give you more realism over code 80, but code 80 is bullet-proof for running eveything.
I am using Atlas code 80 as well in my layout. Main reason is it is cost efective for those of us on a budget and it is the easiest to find. I think I may try code 55 sometime but for now 80 works just fine.
Curt
Peco code 55 is code 80 but cleverly designed to look smaller (Its not as good looking as Atlas55 though). It joins to code 80 (both Peco and Atlas) without any special transition.
I use Peco80 switches with Peco80 and Atlas80 track for main lines and Peco55 switches and track for secondary lines.
Incidently Kato Unitrack joins easily to Atlas or Peco code 80 track. Just snap out the plastic connector and substitute a standard rail joiner.
I appreciate the info everyone has given me, especially the pic’s of your layout Dave. Sounds like Code 80 is the way to go. It also looks like Atlas has a lot of track layouts in N code 80. Should have checked them out before asking the question.
Thanks to everyone for their input.
My delima is that I had what I thought was an area that I could run long trains in HO then finding out that I didn’t have any room for a work shop that is an essintal piece of the puzzle.
Looks like I will be developing an empire in N scale with code 80 track, given the room I have.
Thanks again,
Bill
That’s not a bad thing… I left HO for N for space reasons and haven’t looked back.
Dave,
Your layout is great!
I have been thinking of going to code 55, but after I pulled some of my equipment out of the boxes last night and tried it, I am going to stick with code 80.
What Digitrax Booster do you have? I have been told that I should get a DCS 100 insted of a DB 150 because of being able to see CS’s on the screen. What do you think?
Also, are your signals operational? Are they tied into the loconet?
Sorry to hyjack the thread!
Chuck
Kato’s Unitrack is pretty sweet. I’ve been using it, plus some Atlas switches–the Kato ones are a bit expensive for my taste. Kato makes an “adapter” track that will fit Atlas and other brands of “normal” track. I like the Kato stuff, since there’s no way it can be misaligned, plus it’s easy to set up on the kitchen table.
Thanks for the kind words. I have the Digirax Super Empire Builder which comes with a DB150 booster/command station. It also comes with a DT400 throttle which shows the addresses, CVs, etc. on its screen. Not sure what advantage the DCS100 gives you; I don’t see a screen on it.
My mainline signals are lit, but not yet operational. In order to have them fully operational with the loconet I’d need at least 6 blocks, and I didn’t want to have that many seperate blocks. My plan is to animate them someday with Logic Rail Tech signal animators (they use photocells and simulate block signals using timers). Right now my sidings all have signals that can manually toggle between clear and stop. Low tech, I know.
The signal in the foreground displaying Absolute Stop has a mini SPDT toggle switch buried in a nearby bush (as does the yard lead by the section house and all my other siding/mainline connections) which can be manually set to clear when the switch is aligned to the siding:
The DCS100 differs from the DB150 in that it will read the CVs of a locomotive whereas the DB150 does not. So, you can set a locomotive on the programming track and read what its current CVs are. That is especially useful if you are using a computer and software to program locomotives, such as DecoderPro.
The DCS100 also supports a programming track directly off the booster unit.
OK, I get it. Yeah, I wish my DB150 did that.
Would it be worth the extra $100 or so bucks to uprgade, or is the DB150 ok for the price its at?
Chuck
I bought my switches from discount stores on the internet for about $16-17US. The thing you have to consider, though, is the switch machine is built in, so the only thing you need is a controller for it - be it a decoder or manual switch. When you make that consideration, they are a lot more affordable. I love my Unitrack. I rarely feel limited by the lack of flex track and I’ve certainly never compromised a plan over it. The track is almost bulletproof for reliability.
It’s up to you… Just last night I was reprogramming a decoder and wishing I could read the current CV values, so you may want to look for an upgrade.