I’ve decided to scrap my Rock Ridge and Train City to build a basement layout. It will take several months to design and get the basement prepared for layout construction. I figure I need to be able to watch trains run while I plan and build. Also a small N scale layout can travel.
And I have the following which I collected from lots and by mistake.
I have 10 pieces of flex and 4 turnouts.
I have a coal mine, 2 factories, a house, a freight station, a junk yard and a bridge.
I have a LL Conrail GP-20 and Bachman Spectrum CSX Dash-8
Atlas and Microtrains–6 coal cars and two NS box cars. I also have a bunch of Bachman junk cars that will hit the eBay.
So just a little work converting the Rapidos on the engines and I have the makings of a small scenic coal drag layout. Eventually, I’ll find an Atlas B&P GP-38 and go DCC.
Then I’ll watch trains run while I design and build the basement.
Anyway, I figure that by stealing the trees and rocks off the RR&TC, I can put up something prertiful in short order.
So figuring it is going to be door size, and I’ll probably move it quite a few times, which is better, a door or box frame. I’m sure I’ll be going cookie cutter to get the elevations.
Make sure you can run trains at any given time. By that I mean, if possible keep the old layout so you can run trains when you feel like it. I tore out my old layouts before building the next one and was left with trains on display, no fun.
If you plan to have grades use L-girder or box frame. The L-girder is actually more flexible (you have more spots to put risers) and leaves more room to run cables and trouble shoot. The L-girder will be a bit taller but it doesn’t sound like that will be an issue.
Cookie cutter is the best way to go but be sure to get yourself a belt sander and overbuild the joints and secure with screws. With the sander you can make the plywood subroadbed super smooth and use it on the cork or watever roadbed you choose.
I built a 3x6 years ago and miss the trestle I had on it and the abillity to move it easily. I used box frame on it and would do L-girder as I could put more supports and risers.
I concur with the L-girder suggestion if you are going to use cookie-cutter to obtain the grades. And cookie-cutter (bent plywood) is the easiest way I know of to obtain smooth grades and grade transitions. At door size, the L-girders could use 1x3 webs instead of 1x4, and 1x3 or even 1x2 for the joists. This will reduce weight and thickness. Thickness is the primary problem with portable L girder layouts. But the thickness is compensated for by the ease of adding risers exactly where needed. Box frames grow extra weight when having to add framing to support risers in given locations.
The door will not work with cookie cutter construction. However, a very light and simple alternative is foam slab on door using Woodland Scenics risers on top of the foam slab to achieve your grades.
The answers to several questions determine which approach is better for your particular situation.
Are you going to use plaster shell or plaster top coat over foam for your scenery? Lightweight benchwork isn’t lightweight anymore when plaster is added. To be kept light, scenery needs to be carved directly into the foam (lightest) or a material similar to Structolite used as the top coat over foam. Support systems other than foam - even cardboard strips - are almost always heavier regardless of shell material.
How important is layout weight to you? Even with L girder and plaster, a door size layout can be easily carried by 2 people (but not by yourself). If you want single person manageability, door framework and foam scenery grow in importance. However, keep in mind that a 36" wide by 80" long door with a layout on top is a rather large obj
My biggest concerns are how fast and cheap can I get this up and running. Once I start on my basement layout, I’m going to want to move this layout either to work or my home office. I have carpentry skills, and I have a bunch of scrap foam. I probably will carve it then put about 1/8" of plaster on it.
I’m probably going to build exactly the kind of layout I always try to talk people out of.
Spacemouse sir, For the size/shape you are talking about, with your skills and tools, you can build the l-girder in half a day and do anything you want from there. I looked at your plan, I don’t know if I’ll get around to posting there, it is a bit busy. But I think I go a second time around, with three inches or so elevation change, and try for pseudo-separate scenes in the two ‘levels’, maybe with a retaining wall or buildings between. L girder would give you lots more flexibility, and it is cheap and certainly easy for you.
The door will be noisier than a framed layout with, say, foam over the frame. Cork or foam roadbed would help, but maybe some type of 1/8" vinyl underlay covering the door skin. (You know all this…? I’m pretty sure.)
So, my only issue with the door is making holes in it to stick trees into it, and so on. Foam is great for inserting things that are tall and spindly, like telegraph poles and tree armatures. The foam will absorb the odd knee altercation or whatever will minimal damage, but the door will splinter if hit that hard. Handles will go better onto a frame than a door. The bare door surface will be tough to patch unless you don’t mind using bits of drywall mud here and there.
I had purchased a door to build my yard for this new layout, but someone here advised against it due to its being noisy…
I am happy you have some momentun and budding plans, Chip. I guess this means that your basement is up for grabs, finally?
WARNING!WARNING! Model Railroader attempting fast and cheap? Results are usually not desireable. Please don’t. I have done the fast and cheap and was never happy with it, either poor planning with stuff like compromising turnout locations. Plan thoroughly and plan for smooth operation as even a small layout can bring many hours of enjoyment when you know it will run well because you have a solid foundation with good planning.
I built and installed all L-girders and brackets for wall mounting on my 17X15 N-scale layout, check out my link below, in one day without rushing through it. You could have handles attatched dirrectly to the ends of the girders for easy moving with two people as this would be the strongest point.
I know you have been working on you current layout for some time and have all this knowledge already. It just seems like you may be faultering due to your eagerness to get results. Build in reliabillity and have many hours of cool runnings instead re-railing and stalls.