Im thinking about buying the Powercab starter kit for small 4x8 HO layout, but I also want something that will be upgradable when I build a new larger layout. I have done some research on the Powercab and Powerhouse Pro, and I have to say more questions then answers have come up. Ill list them, it may be easier for you guys to help me out.
How many trains can the Powercab run/control at once?
Is the issue with the locomotive recall fixed?(the recall can only remeber 2 locomotives so when you go to add a 3rd and have two locomotives running the system erases the first one and when you enter the 3rd loco it takes off at whatever speed you had the previouse one at)…something like that?
What are all the differenced between the Power Cab and Powerhouse Pro?
Is it possible to upgrade the powercab to make it the same as the Powerhouse Pro?
In the future can I purchase the NCE Powerhouse DCC box and make the Powercab system the same as the Powerhouse system, is there anything else I have to purchase?
Assuming you can upgrade the Powercab to the Powerhouse Pro is the power cab remote still usable and contain the same functions as Powerhouse Pro remotes?
If I buy the Powercab then buy the Powerhouse DCC box will it allow the remote to be unplugged and moved farther down the line to another plug in or will the whole system shut off like the standard Powercab system?
Should I just save longer and get the Powerhouse Pro?
Thanks for any replies in advanced wether you answer all the questions or only once.
I don’t claim to be an expert, but I do have an NCE Power Cab, so give it a go to answer a couple:
How many trains depends on how much current each of your locos draws. Very likely three in HO. That means running and drawing current. You could have a whole lot more sitting in sidings waiting their turn. I hear NCE will bring out a bigger power supply soon.
Sorry, I do not know of that one.
Firstly about $400. The Power Cab is an entry level system with excellent features for its price. Powerhouse Pro is for big layouts and guys with big bucks.
No you cannot upgrade. However, if you decide to buy the professional system later, then you can use your Power Cab with it as a controller (cab).
See No 4 above.
Not applicable - cannot “upgrade”.
As I understand the Power Cab becomes like any other cab control and so you should be able to do that.
That is the question. Only you could answer that one I am afraid. I bought the Power Cab to learn about DCC and see how it goes. I think a lot of others are looking at it the same way.
The Powercab is a great little system to learn on, and its just right for a 4x8 layout.
I have had mine for about four or five months and if you are aware of some of the quirks, as with any system, you will be just fine.
The powercab does have a power limit but I run N-scale and must be very close to the threshold. I have run two double header trains up and down 2.5% grades with two more single unit trains keaping clear of them yet getting some work done. All this on one throttle ( yes it could be dangerous because of question #2).
The recall issue is a mater of NCE making sure the differences in the two systems are substantial. The recall works like this; select a loco and run it, select another and run it, when you hit select loco again the loco that was on the screen at that time is the one that will get the boot. The other two locos will continue to run at the last speed inicated, and the new loco does nothing until you give it a comand. If the speed of the last loco was say speed step 40 simply depress the rduction buttons to 0 quickly and you are starting from square one. So yes the loco will start off but only if you slightly increase or decrease the throttle instead of reducing it to 0. If you use the momentum feature this problem is barely noticeable.
The main differences are related to power, and the recall stack on the powercab is only two instead of six.
Yes, simply purchase the pro box by itself and the powercab becomes another throttle that you may now move around.Or purchase the smart booster when it is releases and you uprade to 3 amps from 1.7 and with that unit you will be able to move the power cab to another plug in.Now a good question for Larry at NCE would be that with the smart booster will the powercab’s recall go to six?
You will have to purchase the power supply for it.
The pwercab will become another throttle for use with the pro set and all features will be available. The powercab alone has to have track power
wow thanks alot guys, these were the exactly the answers I was looking for, so I think Im going to go buy my power cab today or tomorrow! Now I have to try and figure out what decoders I need?
As John mentioned, the Power Cab is upgradeable to the Power Pro system and automatically becomes an additional throttle, with the ability to call 6 locomotives in it’s stack. I wish the Power Cab were capable of recalling more than 2 locomotives but…I can live with that shortcoming on my 4 x 8.
Thanks for the info I have been reading alot of your posts actually and they have been very helpful. Also another questions that has just come up, when I convert to DCC do I have to do anything to my tracks (like making gaps) Im not really sure what the gaps are ment to do and where/ if I need them. You can see the layout Im building if you have the January 2002 Issue of model railroader its the 4x8 layout they show you how to build.
Also I have a Athearn AC4400, GP38-2( I think), Something like a GP38-2 but with a high nose, and another loco that looks like a MP15AC.The last 3 I purchased at least 5 years ago. All of these are from Athearn and since Im converting to DCC I have no idea what I need for decoders, can anyone help me out?
Each one of these guys knows their stuff and I’d highly recommend any of them.
As far as gapping is concerned. I believe one reason you gap or electrically isolate your track is when you want to divide your layout into power districts. This helps to isolate shorting problems or issues for easier troubleshooting.
If a locomotive shorts on a turnout in one power district, that section will shut down but the other locomotives in the other sections will continue on. Since I have a 4 x 8 layout and only run 2 locomotives at a time, I presently do not have more than one power district. That may change though when I make more progress on my layout.
Zach, another reason for gapping your track is when you plan on having your programming track ON your layout. It needs to be isolated so that the other locomotives don’t inadvertently obtain the same address as the one you are programming. I actually have my programming track on a separate 3’ piece of 1 x 3 for easy storage. Whenever I need to program a locomotive, I just hook it up to a connector attached to the layout, program the loco, unplug the wires, then store it out of the way again.
When on the Digitrax site and its a very helpful site found many decoders that will work with most/all Ho locomotives so Im going to order some of them thanks for the help guys
One of the best decoders going and available for cheap is the NCE D13SRJ for $12.95 from Empire Northern.
The torque compensation feature (adjustable pulse power at low speeds) allows you to get some darn nice low-speed performance from your locos – and at $12 a decoder, you can’t do much better for the money! [swg]
Do I hear an echo in here? J/K Joe. The rate I convert people to D13SRJ’s, NCE ought to send me a few freebies LOL. Of course I go and blow that by running them with a Digitrax system… Only my favorite general purpose decoder.
If you have bunches to convert - get a 10 pack, then they’re only $11.99/ea. I also do not hesitate to recommend Empire Northern, Tim knows his stuff and is good to deal with. Can’t beat his prices, yet he is NOT just some internet retailer dumping product for the lowest price - he provides support, knows what he’s talking about, AND has an actual storefront as well as the web presence. Might have to make a road trip some day.
Right on ALL counts! Thanks again for turning me onto Tim, Randy. He’s a good guy and does great work. I love the LED slot he cut in the cab of my Stewart VO-660 for the rear headlight. It works REALLY well. [tup] (I still wish my Stewart NYC “Cat Whisker” FT A-B would get here faster…[sigh])
Randy, let me know if you ever decide to make that road trip to see Tim. Rochester is only about 4 hours from Cleveland and would make a nice Saturday drive. (Hmmm, autumn…) I would enjoy meeting both Tim and you. I know you two already met @ Timonium(?) but maybe Chip could make the drive, too. (Probably not. I just checked MS Streets and Trips: ~5 hrs.) If I remember correctly, NCE is right there in town, too. Anyway, let me know…
It’s quite a drive for me, but maybe one of these days if I really have nothing better to do. If it’s only 4 hours from Cleveland that means it’s a LONG way from me. Dunno how long it would take me to get to Cleveland, but I know it’s 10 hours for me to Detroit. Over half that is just getting across PA.
As for Timonium, one of these years I’m gonna stay over and go to the show both days. I end up getting talking with some vendors and it eats up the whole day - one year it was the guys from TDP (that make the Trainspeed speedometer), last year it was Dick Bronson from RR-CirKits.
Is it possible to upgrade the powercab to make it the same as the Powerhouse Pro?
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I believe you CAN upgrade the power (output via a booster) of the NCE PowerCab system.
However, the power supply that will provide something like 3.5 amps has not been released yet from NCE according to some literature I read, unfortunate I can’t remember where I saw that notice. I do not know if the Power Cab system is compatible with regular DCC booster supplies, but since it is NMRA compliant, I do not see why a DCC booster could not hook to it…however you certainly would have to find out more info on this before trying it with a 3rd party booster!
I know one person who would have this answer for sure: Tony at Tonys train exchange. I bought the PowerCab system from them, and I have called them several times for questions about this product and they knew the answers–all of them! I have yet to ask about power expansion. Needless to say, buying from this firm is not like buying from some other place that won’t give you the gritty details of the tech specs. And the phone calls are toll free, you can call anytime, and the tech support is free! What service!
Yes, simply purchase the pro box by itself and the powercab becomes another throttle that you may now move around.Or purchase the smart booster when it is releases and you uprade to 3 amps from 1.7 and with that unit you will be able to move the power cab to another plug in.Now a good question for Larry at NCE would be that with the smart booster will the powercab’s recall go to six?
You will have to purchase the power supply for it.
Thank you for confirming that the Power cab can be expanded into higher amp output!
I thought I heard that somewhere!!
By the way, this NCE Power Cab is the BEST entry level DCC system right now for the bucks! Even if it was more $$ than Prodigy, Bachmann EZ , Zephyr, or Atlas, it still would be better buy.
I just hooked up --for the first time—Tony’s PS-REVerser unit for my reverse loop section. It was a bit daunting to try (not that there was a lot of connections) but because I have never used DCC with a reverse loop control. I called Tony’s today just to make sure I had the plan right.
But I hooked it up according to Tony’s instructions, and BLAMO! The loco moves into the reverse section one way, and the LED goes off on the PS-REV unit to tell me that its going thru the section “forward”. Then I turned the train around and went thru the other way, and the LED blinks to say that the train goes thru in Reverse.
Brilliant!!! No short circuits, no mess, no hassles, the first time setup worked like a charm–I now have a REAL railroad whereby I can cut cars thru the mid section each way. This PS REV is a smart product worth every penny!
I highly recommend the PS-1 breaker unit too, as well as the PS-REV and VERY MUCH recommend you buy from Tony’s because they know DCC in and out!
cleo, gaps are usually plastic track connectors that “GAP” the electrical connection between two pieces of track. They are used to isolate sections of track for either a reverse loop or to break a layout into “Power Districts”.