NCE Repair Turnaround Time

Looks like the repair costs for the command station is very close to the costs of buying a new one. Bummer.

I use to use a u**ninterruptible Power Supply (UPS. Low wattage type. Not expensive. Plugs into wall outlet and has surge protection. Got it from Amazon some years ago.

I buy a lot from Amazon and use Prime and Smile. free shipping. Shop local. lol

They even sell trains.

I use to use NCE Power Cab.

Rich

UPS delivers 50% of the packages to the wrong address, sometimes we get it finnaly and sometimes not, USPS no problems.

It took USPS 3 days to get my book I ordered from Kalmbach from Pittsburgh to here. It’s a 6 hour drive. That’s not 3 days to my door, that’s 3 days from leaving one distribution center until it reached the next one. Another day from there to hit my local post office and get delivered.

Last quarter’s utility bill fromt he township (sewer and trash) - I NEVER got that, and I wasn’t the only one. Luckily I thought about it before it was past due and wondered that I hadn’t gotten one, and could log in and pay it. But I get at least one piece of junk mail every day - that seems to ALWAYS make it.

–Randy

Yeah, we also discussed that. There’s plenty of wire strung around the layout that could pick up the EMP from a lightning strike nearby. I do have a surge protector on the power supply side now, but don’t expect it to be a panacea. Given the closeness of the strike, this also accounts for why we came through with no other apparent issues, as most other electronics here, except my radios, aren’t hooked up to such a network of wire that could act as an antenna to pickup EMP.

On the other hand, a nearby strike is somewhat the luck of the draw. It may or may not cause an issue, because EMP pulses are not a uniform event radiating outward equally in all directions. I happen to have a bit of insight into such things because of my research on nuclear intelligence. I had one informant who worked on EMP detection systems the Air Force relies on for initial notice that a nuclear detonation has occurred. The pulses are notable in that they can offer information about the direction and strength of a nuclear explosion, even below ground.

Thus, if you happen to be where one of these “spikes” pass through, things get fried even if you’re not so close as to think it might be an issue. If you’re in a location where the spike is reduced or not present except close in, it’s OK.

Still, get the surge protector.

Mike very common with Lightning strikes. Had it happen to me a few years back. It was not a direct hit but the railroad track and all the plug in buss acts like an antenna and the EMP the strike emits does it’s dirty work. When i leave my system down for a few days or so I always unplug the command station from the 110 v and the railroad. I also don’t leave any handsets plugged in as they can also be affected. — Ken

About a month ago I was sitting at my computer when all of a sudden the lights flickered, I heard a loud pop, and the lights in the neighborhood went dark. It was a clear night and no wind so I figured a transformer must have blown nearby.

The spike blew out the replacement surge protector that I mentioned in my earlier post from July. Along with the usual charred electrical odor*, there was noticeable singed spot directly underneath the surge protector on the rug. So it took a huge hit but it protected my modem and wi-fi router - just like it was designed to do. [Y]

*[Out of curiosity - right after the incident - I pulled apart the old surge protector and the inside was clearly blackened with soot. The odor alone told me that the unit had given up the ghost.]

For the replacement I went with a surge “arrestor” this time around, which is specifically designed for lightning strikes. It’s rated @ 4320 Joules and has enough outlets that I can plug in everything rather than in two separate units. It also has a couple of USB outlets for charging phones.

So, over a 6-month period I’ve lost two surge protectors: one due to lightning and the other due to a blown transformer. Needless to say, I don’t plug in anything electronically critical that isn’t protected.

Tom

How about a “whole house” surge protector. Are these the answer and are they worth the cost for installation?

Joe

They are nifty, and assuming they are installed correctly they are useful for many kinds of lightning strike (but usually NOT those coming in through wired communications unless specifically so equipped!)

The big problem with them is that any causes of shorting, noise,spikes, or other electrical problem inside the house, from any source including air conditioners and machine tools, have no protection given by the whole-house device at all. You would be surprised how often this can be a source of problems, including from accidents. A short or ground fault need not be catastrophic or self-destroying, either, but still dangerous to modern electronics.

My rule even with the best whole-house protector is to put individual protectors with a high joule rating, or UPS units with full isolation between ‘delivered’ protected AC and line, on anything you consider important or expensive. And regularly check them to ensure their surge-protecting elements still test good. And make sure you have a GOOD dioded ground, capable of sinking what may be a heavy amperage (albeit for a comparatively short time) effectively to ground – if you are even the least little bit unsure, get someone to put in a heavy LONG ground rod and connect thoroughly to all your surge devices…

Thanks for the clarification and detailed explanation Overmod. I’ve been contemplating having one of these installed and you’ve provided me the information I needed.

Joe

JoeinPA,

I used to have a whole house surge protector. Worked great for 20 years or so, then the power company decided they were pulling them out.

In this case, yes, within $20 or so (my new Power Pro CS box only - no power supply, no hand controller - cost was $220), but that was the most expensive repair you can have, more or less, on a Power Pro. More typical repairs would come in considerably short of this.

And I can report that the repaired Power Pro showed up in today’s mail.

Mike

What was the reason the power company decided to pull them out?

Joe

This occurred when they came around to install new “smart” meters for some reason. They just pulled it, said it was mine to keep since I’d paid for it, but they were no longer allowing them despite the fact they sold it to me.

It plugged into the incoming power underneath the meter itself, which plugged in on top of it. Never had an issue with it and it made for a neat, clean install.

I’m sure I could probably get something to install on the customer side of the supply, but it wouldn’t be cheap.

If it was connected in front of the meter, that explains it, if more than a basic transiet supressor, it probably also had some noise filtering as well, as the Tripp-Lite surge supressors I use at my workbench have. This would interfere with the over the wire transmission of the smart meter. Installed on the customer side of the meter, it should be fine.

–Randy

Randy

Thanks for the explanation. My electrician has suggested that I have one installed at the breaker box.

Joe

Joe,

Let us know how that goes, rough cost, etc. It’s something we should look into here, because it’s a capability I came to rely on (keeping in mind some events aren’t entirely preventable.)

We put them directly above the house distribution breaker panel. In some of the larger custom houses (or the one wired for filmmaking) which had multiple main breakers you could put it in the line to that; if there are different service voltages than the ‘usual’ three-wire 240 plus ground into the breaker panel you’re best off with a separate one for each.

Upon reflection the better way to provide “whole house” surge is to divide the service boxes below the main breaker and put the ‘electronic grade’ or UPS whole house protection on a branch that has no motors or heavy intermittent loads – no HVAC or boosters, no laundry equipment, no refrigerators. Our smart houses were wired that way, with distinctive outlet colors for the ‘protected’ branches.

(If you use UPS be VERY mindful of islanding concerns. In my experience many domestic electricians are ignorant of some of the concerns that arise…)

Guys

Thanks for all the info on whole house surge protectors. It will be a while until I am able to have one installed due to upcoming surgery and some other issues. When I do do it I’ll let you know.

Joe

Best wishes on the surgery and a good recovery, Joe.