Hello
I need advice on what brand of switch machines I should use. So far, I’ve used Atlas under table switch machines and they have not impressed me. I need something that is in the $8-12 range. I’m using mostly Walthers (Shinohara) turnouts, but because of the recent shortage of them, I’ll also be using a few Micro Engineering turnouts. Any advice would be appreciated.
Tortise, in bulk fall in your price range. Standard Hobby Supply is one source.
There are 3 basic TYPES - and variations within each type:
Your ATLAS machines (Type 2) require momentary SPDT toggles or push buttons, and will work best with a Capacitive Storage unit running off DC.
A much better machine is offered by NJ International. When used in conjunction with a RIX mount they make installation easy. COST @ $10. Best operation is achieved when one powers the frog via the switch’s contacts and not depending on point to rail contact.
Slo-motion Motor driven machines require only a continuous 12v. DC source and conventional panel mounted toggles, since the power is left on. In ‘theory’, the continous pressure of the points on the rail provides more reliable ectrical continuity, and powering the frog is “not necessary”. Cost @ $15
MANUAL throws (such as CABOOSE INDUSTRIES) are becoming popular for spurs, yards, etc. where there is access, and one can become the switchman as well as engineer. Cost @ $3
IN GENERAL: Twin Coil machines for the more rugged Code 100 turnouts.
and Motor drives for more easily bruised Code 70 turnouts - which equtes to 110 lb rail. Manual throws for Yards and spurs (like the Railroads do).
Code 83? - your choice. MORE Important:: a system aligning turnouts with the push of a button; OR toggles which show you the direction of the turnout? Walthers/ Shinohara are good turnouts… What is the makeup of thesystem you now have? ATLAS push buttons fed by the AC terminals of a DC power pak?? [^]
Thanks, nfmisso, but I don’t have enough money to buy them in bulk. I won’t be able to buy more than two or three at a time.
Does anybody have any experience with the Peco switch machines?
Thanks, Don Gibson, for the info. I’ll check and see if my LHS has those switch machines made by NJ International. Since they’re the same type of switches as the Atlas, I’m assuming that they can be operated using the same Atlas control boxes. As for the manual turnouts, there’s two or three within reach of my control panel that I might use the manual switches for.
PECO MACHINES: They are Twin Coil types and best suited to fit the PECO turnouts.
BUY a NJ International and a RIX RAK and try it. (Your turnouts - Walthers / Micro-Engineering - deserve it, and will work in your present system.)
I strongly recommend Tortoise machines. In my experience the twin pole machines are difficult to keep adjusted properly and hard on the switch points. The also require more wiring than the slow motion switch motors. I replaced a bunch of twin poles with Tortoises and I’m delighted with the results. I wish I had done it sooner, or better yet, used them to start with.
Have Fun,
Tom Watkins
I went to my LHS today and all that they have is the Peco, Atlas, and Tortoise machines. I guess I’ll have to give the Tortoise machines a try, although they are a little expensive. Do you think that it would be possible to jerry-rig one machine to throw two turnouts at the same time?
ElPARRo:
Motor driven machines such as Totoise machines will not work with your ATLAS momentary switch buttons. You will have to replace those, also.
Your LHS (if he wants) to can get 'RIX TC’s from Walthers, or you can order direct through their retail store.These will work with your ATLAS push buttons.Twin Coil machines do not need adjustments. Once set, They depend on the spring in the wire to compensate. Go to RIX RaX mounts in the Walthers Catalog or RIX online to see how they mount.
Apparently NJI is no longer importing their switch machine. The ‘Whistle Stop Trains’ in Portland OR I know has some NJ’s in stock. 2nd choice is Rix TC’s.
My LHS has switch control panles made by Acme that I would get for the Tortoise switch machines if I decided to use them.
I was looking through GMR 2003 and found a short yet informative article about a guy who made his own switch machines for his switching layout. They look cheap enough to build and I might give them a try.
Remember?: Cheap is why you wanted to upgrade (Atlas under-table machines.) in the first place. Get something that will DO the job!, otherwise you are wasting money.
Stall Motor’s admittedly are good, but require a totally different operating system. I’m converting over - and I’m now building my 5th layout . Twin Coils are positive, less expensive, and will work with much of what you have now.
Check out EBay under ‘Track & Accessories’. - D.G.
Do NOT use twin coil machines, they tear things apart. As Don says, don’t waste your money - do NOT buy twin coil machines.
To control the Tortise machines, use SPDT or DPDT toggle switches, which you can get from Radio Shack (expensive), Frye’s, DigiKey or All-Electronics, much less than the Acme stuff.
One Tortise can easily through four turnouts at once, such as in a double crossover or yard lead consisting of Y turnouts.
My qualifications: I am a Mechanical Design Engineer; I design mechanisms for a living, I know the forces involved.
e-mail me directly if you would like some sketches.
For what it’s worth, I argee with Nigel. I just replaced a bunch of Rix machines because I was spending too much time trying to keep them adjusted properly and they were very hard on the the switch points. Converting to Tortoises wasn’t hard, it just took time. I’m very pleased with the results.
Have Fun,
Tom Watkins
I’ll have to agree that a Circuitron Tortoise is the way to go…not only do they look prototype when the points are thrown due to the slow motion action, but they have an extra DPDT switch build into them for searchlight target control, select turnout control, wye control, reversing loop control, ect… what you pay for a tortoise is about the same as purchasing an atlas UTSM, the atlas relay ,and the cost and time needed to build a capacitor discharge unit…Chuck[:D]
Peco. I use code 100 track/switches and mount the motors above the board using the Peco adaptor bases. I did try cutting a hole and mounting the motor under the switch (as detailed in the instructions with the motor), but I felt that the effort involved in cutting the hole was greater than the effort involved in camoflaging an above-ground unit (mine look like small groups of trees). One piece of advice though, if using this system, remember to remove the spring from the adaptor base - there is already a spring in the turnout and the motor isn’t strong enough to move both.
Hornby offer a similar base with a neat lineside hut cover, though this is to 4mm-1ft scale. I’m considering using these on a future extension, as with careful placing, painting, etc the over-scale nature shouldn’t be too noticable and will be easier than my current method, which is to obtain a cardboard tube from a roll of kitchen towel, cut sections of it, cut a notch to allow the operating rod to pass through, and then place the tube over the switch machine. These can be camoflaged as vents for a tunnel, or covered in foliage to simulate a small clump of trees.
‘Stall Motor’ turnout devices are slower and more gentle than twin coils. The fact that they do not require ‘momentary’ actuation is a major plus. Simple toggles can be used: SPDT for motor; DPDT for frog powering or panel lighting; 3PDT for both.
With apologies to my friend NIGEL - I am not a mechanical engineer - but I have used twin coils over the years - Atlas - True Scale - Rix - NJI - Tenshodo - and have never had a turnout destroyed or deformed - even with a Capacitive Discharge Unit with 10,000 mfd. (and Code 100 turnouts). I am now switching to Stall-Motors for code 70 - as they are more fragile, so as not to push my luck. Since 'Turnout’s derail things, I pay more attention the the quality of turnout used.
Hi, I have about 35 Switchmaster under table machines. They work fine, but are kind of a pain to install correctly. I moved, and obviously tore our my previous layout. Getting ready to install on new layout, but missing many of the small parts (piano wire, brass rods, fiberglass shims); you know, the parts that get lost in moving.
Does anyone know where I can acquire these parts? Appreciate the help.
Bruce Travis
what do you find wrong with atlas switches?