Not really. Even it you overbuilt it, 3000 lb cars and trucks driving over track will shift it’s gauge. Try to avoid a crossing with a real road.
The amount of AMPs you need to power a layout isnt based on the size of the run, but rather the amount of current your locos will pull. What you need are Repeaters.
DCC is a whole different ball of wax. I strongly suggest going with a battery/wireless control method. Outside track requires alot of the cleaning needed for DCC.
Sound is available for DC…especially for battery powered trains.
Ok…
Start small and get your feet wet. Read lots of books and really look into and study the pitfalls of outdoor railroading.
I would consider putting a rectangular concrete three sided channel in with a lip for grating on top and run the track through that. That way you could fix derailments easily and keep it safe from cars. Any interaction between a car and train would result in a lost train.
I was at a live steam layout just yesterday and they have a vehicle crossing. It was aluminum rail, maybe an inch or 1.5" high, so bigger than G but by no means beefy. They protected it with pressure treated wood used as curbing very much like on the real thing. The sides of the rails are easy enough. But the gauge is wide enough in G that a tire will drop some if you don’t have fill and hit the opposite rail with sideways pressure. You’ll need something in there to help with that.
Years ago, LGB used to show a picture of an elephant stepping on their track. It is robust stuff and available in 6’ section, minimizing troublesome track joints to maybe one (assuming a 12’ driveway?). Then you get a strip of Corrian or other heavy tough plastic and plug it in for the between the rails planking. Maybe even stuff they use to build decks, as it comes in brown? All this would fit into a slot cast into concrete at the crossing area.
I do like the idea of an open trench, then cover it with grating. This depends on suitable terrain more than a level crossing, though.
2 and 3. Runs for DCC that long will be troublesome and expensive. Have you priced copper lately? And you’ll need heavy gauge stuff. Runs that length are quite unusual in my experience. People have good luck with RC control and battery power in G. But do the math, price of copper versus RC/battery for the number of locos you plan. Sound is not a problem, you just need decoders for the big amps of G power trains.
Since you plan a long run and need power, there is even live steam available in G. I’d say not for beginners, based on price alone. But if you build in stages, this could be part of the mix.
Consider carefully what you can find out others have used for ballasting track in your climate. You don’t want to have to spend lots of time trying to keep all that level and in place…
You did not mention what part of the country you live in. Do you get ice and snow in the winter that may cause problems with your driveway crossing?
A friend of mine here in Maine had a G scale layout in his back yard. He did not have much problem with frost heaves during the thaw, but he did not run during the winter. There are others up this way who do. There have been videos of garden RR snowplows at work.
I would think about how you plan to operate this loop. Unless you are following along the train, it will be out of sight a lot while on the other side of the house. If you want to sit in a lawn chair and operate, keep it all in one part of the yard where you can see it.
I suggest you start with a smaller loop say 100 ft of track and learn how outdoor railroading is going to work for you. And whether you enjoy the challenges it brings.
Even though some may be able to help here, your better bet for HELP is over on the Garden Railways loop of this site, as they “specialize in graden/G scale”:
If it were mine it would be dead rail from the very start.That way all of the electrics are in the locos and cars and if you really wanted you could safely run in the snow /rain.
I am a long-term HO modeler who added an outdoor 1:20.3 layout when I retired about eight years ago. I note to you that laying track in outdoor “G” is a completely different animal than doing so in HO. It becomes far more like the real thing, with serious issues involving rail expansion as well as ground movement on slopes. I would suggest working with a smaller segment first (could there be a smaller loop in the back before the main line was built around the house) to experiment/practice.
Although initially expensive, I have been very pleased with on-board rechargable batteries and radio remote control. That way there is no need to run electrical wires underground and worry about water or corrosion. My system from Remote Control Systems of New England continues to perform well in two “steam” locomotives after these eight years.
And yes, the Garden Railways portion of the forum will be of greater help and reach for “G” questions.
You have set a most formadible goal for yourself. 3,000 feet of track is acheivable, but I would recommend breaking it apart in smaller segments and allow the empire to grow over time. Money: Each foot of track is going to run around $8~$10 in the ground. This accounts for track, turnouts, ballast and sub-road bed. Time: Each foot of track will cost 20~30 minutes in construction. This accounts for time needed to dig the trench for your sub-road bed, “cuts” where the track goes through high spots in the yard and “fills” in the lower areas of the yard, and any bridges needed. Add more time and money for each structure you plan for.
#1. I have seen a couple of “driveway crossing methods” used with success. The first being pulling track sections from storage and flopping them down on top of the driveway prior to operation and retreival afterwards. The second, cut a slot in the driveway about 1 1/2 ~ 2 inches wider than your track ties, about 2 inches deep. Then backfill the slot with a sand and cement mix so that when you put in the track your railhead tops are just a milimeter or two below the drivway surface. After the first concrete pour has firmed up well lay the track in position and add 1/8 inch thick wood strips on both sides of each rail to form clear flangeways. Now fill wit cement sand mix and cure well before removing the wood strips. Now you have created another maintenance problem for yourself. Cleaning the rails. You will need to scrub each rail with a pencile erasure and find a technique to remove dirt and debris from the flangeways.
#2. NO. As part of the move to “G” you will also be getting a new and more powerful power supply (transformer). The prime cause of electrical problems outdoors is a weak electrical connection between the rails. The slip-on connectors that most rail comes with will corrode over time, they will get dirt inside themselves, they will fail electrically over time. Some folks solder each rail joint for execellent ph