I have a layout that spans about 100 feet, has 8 blocks and -so far- about 20 switches. I have one block that has a serious illness. This block is about 12 feet long has 2 rerailers and 5 switches and everytime I apply power to it (with OR without an engine on it), my engine stops, my power pack groans and the overload light starts to glow. All other blocks run fine. I’ve used 2 different power packs on it with same results. I have isolated it to the point where I use alligator clips to send power only to this block and get the same results.
Can anyone give me ideas for a diagnosis, cure and rehab plan?
Short answer. You have a short.
It could be in a turnout or you may have crossed the leads when you added feeders to the block.
The best way IMO to troubleshoot would be to physically cut the block in half and test each part. You are going to have to isolate the problem to find it and cutting the block into sections would be the easiest way.
I think probably one of the rerailers connects the two rails together.
Hi jchain
Since you already know which block has trouble, I suspect the problem may be in one or more of the five switches. I bet at least one of the switches is a power routing turnout and you do not have insulated connectors on the diverging route or you have an uninsulated reverse loop ( O ) or wye ( Y ). Check to see if the tracks turn back to itself or connect in somehow to form a wye . Insted of cutting your rail up, try disconnecting power leads to the track. Email me if you are still having problems.
What brand of turnouts are you using in the ofending block? Are one or both rails insulated between blocks? Can you draw a schematic diagram of the problem block and send it to me?
Yep, short somewhere. What brand of switches are you using?
Crossed feeders might be a possibility, if you have more than one set in this block.
Andrew
Thanks for your responses. I only have one set of feeders into this block, but, based on what has been said I suspect the turnouts. I never knew until reading about it last night that there was even such a thing as a powered turnout. I just got a TON of old switches from a friend and they included all different makes, sizes and directions and used some of those among the 5 in this block.
I’ll check these guys out and get back here if that is NOT the problem. Is there anyway to tell by examining a turnout if it is powered or not?
Coertsmit: how would rerailers be a problem? I thought those were nothing more than a standard 9" piece of straight track that nad some plastic added to direct the weels. Not so?
It is power - routing turnout.
Get out your multi-meter - get one if you don’t have one, one of the <$10 from Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Radio Shack, etc is fine.
Verify that you have a short accross the rails, then move all of the turnouts so that they are aligned with the mainline. If short goes away, great, if not…
I suggest that you put insulated joiners or insulating gaps on the two rails that go through the frog just beyond the frog, then run feeders around them.
Hey Guys, speaking of muli-meters (definitely a must have for the tool box ) while you’re at the electronics store, pick up a cheap Pizo speaker, a 9 volt battery holder (battery too if you don’t already have one) and a couple small alligator clips. Connect one short wire from the battery holder to the Pizo speaker and run one long wire to a alligator clip and another long wire from the other lead of the speaker to a clip. What you have now is an audio continuity tester. Any closed circuit will sound the alarm. A “nice to have” tool if you can’t conveniently see a meter while working.
Thanks for all of your help. It was a bad turnout.
Thanks for getting back to us and letting us know what the solution was! Not too many people do that…
Andrew