[?]I am @ the point where, I’m ready to add the water effects to my streams and ponds. I have never modeled water before this layout. I was hoping to get some insight from modelers experienced in this area.
what is a good readily available product, i.e. would envirotex work well
which tools to have ready to work with
special priming preparations
moving water effects & stationary water tips
thanx in advance for tips & ideas
I am sure that others can provide “experienced” advice, but let me throw in a few ideas. The photo shows a railroad bridge and an arched auto bridge across a stream. The use of bridges hides the vertical-horizontal intersection. The use of a curved river backdrop adds to the forced perspective. I used Magic Water, poured in thin layers to create the stream. With WSWater Effects applied with dry brush technique. This photo does not show the white water effects around rocks and at the short waterfall. I used Hydrocal plaster to water proof the base, before painting the sides and bottom of the stream. Capillary action will cause “water creep”(which can be painted over) Bob Hahn 
For a large harbor, I painted the bottom side of plastic door panels (with random relief pocks) The shiny top surface reflects light. (I cut the 3/16" plastic by scribing and snapping.) 
thank you for the input, I have just started the winding creek on the backdrop like you suggested. i am looking through my Walthers N scale for water effects. I get a good idea of the whitewater and cap effect from your photos, how do you make the water set up vertically on a waterfall?
thanx for the help, and cool reference pics
For ponds and harbors, deep type water, you only need about a 1/2 actual depth in the layout surface. Be sure to seal the pond completely with hydrocal, plaster or something like it. To give the illusion of depth I use my earth tone near the edges of the pond and a dark green, brown or black for the deep spots. With both paints still wet gently blend the two, so it appears to get darker and darker as it gets deeper. If you don’t like the looks of it when the paint is dry, do it over. A little pratice and you’ll get it. If you are going to have rocks, logs, piers, cattails or other scenic elements in the water add them at this point. I used Envirotex, a two part mix. Mix up a small batch, add a few drops of a green craft paint to give your water the effect of a slightly murky depth. Pour your first layer only about 1/8" thick. I suggest you take a piece of newspaper or a brown paper bag and put it over the water, tent fashion, to keep dust and other things from dropping into your water before it is dry. Make sure it is fully dry before adding the next layer. For the next pour, use less of the craft paint than in the first pour, do the same depth. The last two pours probably won’t need any coloring, just pour each layer and let it dry throughly between pours. I have seen mentioned that you should have most of the other scenic work done in the area of the pond before you pour the “water”. Some folks seem to have had trouble with the scenic cement wicking between the water and the painted surface, making it look strange. I did my water pour late sort of by accident, but have added clump foliage and trees using small amounts of full strength white glue and have had no problems.
If you want ripples or moving water, I understand WS Water Effects is good for this, but haven’t done it myself. For fast moving water WS Water Effects dry brushed
I use Magic Water, which comes with detailed instructions. It was also easy to contact the guy who makes the stuff with questions. There is also a How To video on this MR site which does a good job of showing and explaining how to pour the Magic Water and how to add effects with the WS product.
Envirotex lite is, in my opinion, the absolute best product. I tried WS realistic water but did not like it for several reasons including that it remains slightly “soft”.
Envirotex self levels making a very smooth surface. For gentle movement, two randomly applied coats of artist’s gloss medium work well. Water effects for larger waves and clear silicone for breakers and such. Silicone will take white paint highlights but not very well. (too chemically slippery I suppose). Medium over the silicone works.
Take heed of the advice above about 1/8" max pours and plug every pinhole well or it will leak out. I like to heat it gently and quickly with a propane torch to remove the bubbles. Practice on a scrap piece first and don’t burn anything. Blowing on it is safer. (The CO2 is supposedly what removes the bubbles, not the heat). You can also add tiny drops of green paint on a toothpick to simulate algae around the edges of ponds.
Another trick that I used is to lay painted foil “goldfish” on the first and second layers of the pour.
I don’t have a detail image handy but here’s an overview of one farm pond.
This “waterfall” is silicone under gloss medium with a touch of white artist’s acrylic.
Don’t be afraid to experiment before attempting a final scene and good luck.
Karl
Really good advice from Karl: the best way to learn is by doing. You can always rip it out and do it over (I’ve done so numerous times.
Here is a photo of a diorama that I did in about 4 weeks. Not my best work, and I’m a horrible photographer to boot, but such as it is:
The flat water in the river is WS Realistic Water. While it works OK, it’s not great (it never fully cures, making it self healing… which means that it will also attract dust and form dents if something is placed on it. The running water coming down the hill is acrylic gloss gel, dry-brushed with gloss white acrylic paint to give the impression of foam.