My parents picked up some HO scale rolling stock for me at a train show a few weeks ago. I would like to change out the couplers to Kadee’s, not sure if this is possible. If it is possible, should I use #5 or #148? Some other questions I have are on the photo. The wheels will be changed out to 33" Intermountain metal (that’s the easy part). Any help is appreciated before I start gouging and breaking plastic…
Yes, the trucks can be removed. Looks like they are secured with a friction fit plastic pin. It ought to come out if yo pull straight up on it. If it breaks, you can replace it with a pan head machine screw.
You have two choices in coupler replacement. You can stay with the current truck mounted (talgo) coupler setup. Kadee makes a vast assortment of couplers to fit everything manufactured over the last 50 years. They have a list on their website showing what fits what. Or you can convert to body mount couplers. You cut off the talgo coupler box with diagonal cutters. Then you secure an ordinary Kadee coupler box to the end sills of the car. Secure the Kadee box with a 2-56 machine screw thru the middle of the box. A #50 drill makes the proper size hole for a 2-56 screw. The threads of the screw will cut into the plastic, there is no need to tap the hole. You may need to put a few bits of plastic sheet under the coupler box to get it to fit right.
All my cars are equipped with the tried and true Kadee #5, which has been around since the dawn of time and works well. The #148 is a newer design which replaces the bron
Gidday, Can,t add anything to Davids good advise and while I see that you’ve got a hopper there, here is a boxcar I’ve done the minimum too.
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Usually I would replace the plastic pin with a screw so I can adjust the trucks for better tracking,but this is a good running car as it is. Didn’t realize that I"d fitted Bachmann Mk II couplers, not Kadee No:5. Also see, to my shame that the wheels need a darn good clean!!
Must admit I enjoy tinkering with rolling stock, have fun with your conversions.
Cheers, The Bear.
After looking at those photos, a conversion to body mounted couplers is going to be tricky because the trucks are mounted so close to the ends of the car. if you are not careful with the conversion, it looks like the truck itself, or the wheels, or both may strike the coupler mount.
To convert from truck mounted couplers to body mounted couplers, you are going to need some sort of conversion kit to form a “pad” on which to mount the coupler assembly. Kadee sells various conversion kits, depending on the type of car and manufacturer, or you can scratch build your own pad.
Another consideration is the choice of coupler. The #5 is a standard medium centerset shank coupler, while the #148 is a whisker medium centerset shank coupler. These are both excellent couplers that may or may not fit your conversion. A lot depends upon the measurements of the coupler pad and the dimensions of the coupler assembly itself. Some are higher or lower, and some are more or less deep from front to back of the assembly. Depending upon the height of the underside of the car body, you may need an overset shank to lower the height of the coupler or an underset shank to raise the height of the coupler.
You may want to consult Sam The Answer Man at Kadee to see if he can recommend the appropriate coupler conversion kit and coupler mounting pad.
Incidentally, do you know the brand of the car?
Rich
As shown on the photo by JaBear but not pointed out, he removed the side mounting “ears” so the wheels do not hit the coupler box. This will not effect the operation of the coupler. If using the center hole to mount the box the side “ears” are not needed.
Thanks for the advice (so far). No, I don’t know what brand/manufacturer, other than it has “austria” stamped on the underside.
Please keep the advice/comments coming…
I think there should be room for a Kadee box. If you compare PennCentral’s picture with The Bear’s, they are very similar. Some trimming might be in order, but all the parts are plastic and will cut easily. I agree about the “ears” on the boxes - they have to go.
Definitely body-mount the couplers, even if there’s an easy drop-in replacement for the truck mounts. It’s worth the effort, as the cars will perform much better, particularly when backing.
For reference, the Kadee boxes are referred to as “draft gear” boxes when you look for them on the rack at your LHS. Another option to consider is the #58 coupler. It has a smaller head than the venerable #5, and looks more prototypical. I use them as my standard coupler now, and I find that they play well with the #5s on other cars, and even with the junk-brand couplers that haven’t failed yet.
Check the Kadee web site, for sure. There are detailed measurements, dimensions, and specifications for each coupler and each coupler box.
And drop a line to Sam. He is extremely knowledgeable.
Rich
I’ve done many retrofits similar to the Bears above. They work and yes a screw helps vs the plastic pin. On occasion I’ve added some shims made from plastic sheet stock. Note that replacement wheelsets with different axle diameter are available and that Intermountain are some of the smallest which results in you perhaps needing to raise the coupler box by removing/sanding/filing some material or even using an underset shank coupler. So be sure and get a Kadee coupler height gauge.
Richard
For coupler height shims, most of us have lots of leftover Kadee coupler boxes. I cut the “pipe” part of the cover off with flush cut cutters and voila, you have a ready made coupler shim.
The one problem I’ve had with the 148’s and similar whisker couplers is that on the Kadee style box with the ears, the whiskers are just long enough to tangle up with the ears and the coupler is permanently pushed to one side. I wish they made boxes without the ears. I still use No. 5’s where I have to install the whole box.
Now my one beef with Kadee’s coupler boxes. Why can’t they put the pipe part on the box side like every car manufacturer does? It would make the couplers so much easier to assemble.
Redore, I am very interested in your comments, but I am not sure that I fully understand them.
What do you mean by “pipes” and “ears” ?
Rich
Looks like it was made by AHM.
That was one of my guesses, but still not sure.
Anyway, I was able to take apart the coupler box and install a Kadee #5. It’s not perfect, but works for now. Thanks to all for your input…
Gidday, Pleased to see you’ve had a satisfactory result.
Cheers, The Bear.