Hi Guys,
I was looking at the Micro-Mark web site and they have several pin vises. The head on the one I have does not swivel. Therefore, when I’m using it, the wooden head tends to get stuck against the palm of my hand and causes the hole thing to buckle, sometimes causing the drill bit to break. I would guess that the swivel head pin vises are the answer.
I was wondering if I need the large swivel head Micro-Mark has which is a rubber ball about 1 1/2" in diameter or just the smaller one with a metal swivel head? Anyone have experience with either?
It’s a matter of taste. I have 1 with the swivel head, but usually use the ons with the straight shaft. You can also chuck these in a hand drill for small drills. Just order more than 1 thing so you don’t pay double considering the S&H charge. Jerry
I’ve got two pin vises. One has a swivel head. I prefer the swivel head, but sometimes the bits won’t tighten up in the collett (?) of the vise, so I have to use the other one. There seems to be a limit to the range of bits that will comfortably fit in each of the 4 ends (colletts) of each vise, and the range does not always fully overlap. Therefore, I have some bits that I can’t use because I either can’t get them in the vise or I can’t tighten them sufficiently.
I especially like using the swivel head vise to hold the 2-56 drill taps for tapping the screw holes for coupler boxes or truck mounting screws. Makes for easy, straight work. Jewelers’ screwdrivers have swivel heads. Those guys must know something!
General Tool makes a very good and comfortable pin vise with the swivel. Comes with 2 double ended collets for drills 1/8" to #80. Spare collet stores in the handle. Xacto and Micro mark may have something similar.
Bob K.
These things are great. They’re 1000 times faster than a pin vise, are just as accurate, and are about 1/4 the weight, meaning that they don’t exert as much lateral force on the drill bit (meaning that you won’t break as many!). These drills are a lifesaver when you’re working on a resin boxcar, and have to drill holes for 52 grab irons!
I’ve got this too, and it works great for working on metal steam boilers. But a Dremel tool is too fast for working on plastic or resin freight cars: there’s too much side to side motion in the collett to make precise holes, and the drill’s melting a path through the material, rather than cutting. Stick with hand tools for plastics!
Nah; just the modeling. 1/16" is HUGE for most of what I’m working on, which is in general .010" wire grabs. 1/16" is about .062", while .015" is 1/64". For drill bits that small, you need something SMALL and SLOW. Otherwise, you’ll snap them like dry pasta.
Well, it’s not the BEST way to do it. You’ve got at least two problems that I see with using plain old wire as a cutting tool: strength and cutting surface.
What sort of wire are you using? If brass, then it’s too soft, and will warp or bend on you. You’re OK with steel wire.
And what’s the end of the wire look like; the part that’s doing all the work? If it’s got a bit of a burr on the end, I suppose it COULD work as a cutting edge. If it’s smooth, then it’s not really cutting, it’s melting a path through the surface.
I’d stick with real live drill bits. They cost about $1.50 apiece, and if you treat them right will last for 100 holes or more.