I am still trying to shim the worm gears on my P2K GP38’s I have figured out how to do it but now I need help finding the shims. I talked to the man at Walthers and he agreed that is more than likely the problem but did not have a resource for the shims. Any one have any idea where I can find some? Mike
Two possibilities –
Kadee coupler and truck shim washers. These come in two thicknesses and should be available at a hobby shop that carries a good assortment of Kadee couplers, trucks, wheelsets, etc.
Small steel or brass washers from a hardware store. You’d have to take one of the worm gears with you to see if they have something as small as you would need. You can purchase them in bulk from http://www.microfasteners.com if you can determine the size that would be appropriate.
Thanks for the input there cacole, I will definitally check into that. I find it hard to believe that no one knows where to find the shims. Mike
Check out Northwest Shortline www.nwsl.com. Their catalog lists some shims and bushings, and they’ve got just about any driveline parts imaginable. Good luck!
Mick Enright
Here is the PDF file from NWSL: http://www.nwsl.com/Catalog/pg108-cat8-04-v0605.pdf As you can see in the thrust washer chart, there are different size washers to fit the various shaft sizes. You need to measure the diameter of your worm shaft. It is probably either 2.4mm (.094") or 2mm (.079"). Once you determine the size you need it can be ordered from your LHS, Walthers or direct from NWSL.
Jim
If all else fails or you happen to have what’s needed laying around, shims are easy to make. Find the appropriate thickness shim brass, drill a clearance hole for the application’s shaft size, then use a hole punch centered over the drilled hole to punch out the brass disc of what will be your shim.
Use a nipper/shear to cut through to the center hole. Then simply spread the “C” that you’ve made to slip it over the shaft. This type should stay on the shaft in most applications. Be sure that it is flat as possible and has no burrs from fabrication.
Another alternative is to cut a slot into the shim to the centerhole, but this will have to be used for an application where the shim can’t slip back off.
For my P2K GP7’s I used North West Short Line 103-4 (0.010") and 100-4 (0.005") Thrust Washers. The aim is to remove the end float so you will need to experiment with different combinations of both sizes. My GP7’s also had too much lubricant in the trucks so you may need to dismantle and clean the drive and relube. You should end up with a sweet running locomotive.
Bill
Athearn also has thrust washers. Bowser as well.