Need help from BLI Class J owners, my tool boxes was stolen from my car

Need a little help with me being over my head!

Few weeks ago my car was broken into and my Train Tool box was stolen! Over all I find it a little funny, can you imagine the looks on the thief’s faces when they opened the tool box? Hardly any tools and mainly cheap stuff at that! Plus looking at the Kadee couplers, Kadee washers, strips of plastic, bottles of glue and colored chalk. Main thing I need help with is most of my engines owner’s manuals where in the box as well.

What I need is.

Number for Broadway Limited tech support for a RA number for my heavy Mike. Wheels came out of quarter and bent a drive rod.

Class J BLI needs the decoder re sat to factory default. I have done it before using DC, but cannot remember the order it must be done in. I tried BLI web site but did not find any manuals listed.

It is just sinking in how much stealing my toolboxes is going to cost me to replaces. I am going to guess around $150.00 not counting the box it self, which was cheap. As we all know it is the little stuff. Like the spare trucks, extra frames, extra gears and on and on.

Cuda Ken over my head again, right Jktrains!

Here is the BLI info, if no one helps you with the J -type, When I get home I will post it, I am at work until 7:30am though.

Information you need:

Matthew Williamson

Broadway Limited Imports, LLC


4 Signal Avenue, Suite C

Ormond Beach, FL 32174

Tel: 386-673-8900

Fax: 386-673-8080

http://www.broadway-limited.com/

I can’t help with the tools, Bud, except to sympathize…that really bites when you get touched by criminals, doesn’t it?

As for the QSI reset, CV 49 changed to 128

CV 50 to 256

CV 56 to 113

Go to their site Broadway Limited Imports, find their customer service number, and call the guys for manuals.

Crandell, I know you have forgotten but I run a Bachmann E-Z with a 8 amp booster. So I cannot get to the CV’s. I know that 99.9% of you think I am nuts for still running T-Stages old E-Z command but it is simple and I like simple. I will be getting a Zepher pretty soon but for one reason. I want radio control DCC.

GTX, Matt looking forward to the answer’s on the Class J. Remember I am looking for the order on DC to re sit the decoder. Engine runs fine, but there is no whisel. Hit F-2 and the bell sounds, F-1 the bell sounds. All other fuctions are fine.

Both your guys friend Ken

GTX, still waitting on the reset for the BLI Class J.

Ken

You can remove the tender cover, pull out the little black pillar that looks like it has two mini-staples on its top, power up, power off, replace the jumper, as it is called, and then you will get a full reset when you next power up. At least, that is what the first few years of QSI production did. If your engine came with a wand, the black plastic funny shaped thing like a toy electric razor, you power down, place the wand against the water hatch, power up, slowly wave the wand about 1/2" in either direction, and the engine should beep and go through a reset by itself. Power down, power up, and deal with it on address “03”.

Note that the factory sometimes relocated the reed switch to just near the trailing edge of the coal bin, so if what I describe up above doesn’t want to work, try the wand nearer the coal bin rear plate.

Sorry, that’s all I can remember.

Dont forget to buy a Radio Panel for your Loconet when you purchase the Zephyr. And radio throttles too.

The QSI CV reset applies to ALL QSI decoders so far.

This website is the headquarters for all things QSI including manuals in PDF format.

http://www.qsisolutions.com/

I worked with a very physically attractive woman many years ago who stepped out of a health club and had a thief grab her purse and run. Except it wasn’t her purse. It was her sweaty work out clothes in her gym bag. imagine his surprise when he opened that one.

Had a boy run up to us with a big CB radio box all shrunkwrapped and offer it to us for 20 dollars. (220 dollar radio retail)

We stood around asked him to open it up.

He said no… gotta buy it first.

Upon threat of physical violence he grudgently opened the thing.

Two bricks fell out.

That was the end as far I could see for that kid.

Had a big ol microwave oven box. Filled it up with a bunch of NASTY garbage I was getting rid of. Taped it shut and put it in the back of my pick up truck to take to the dump. Came out the next day and it was gone!!![(-D][(-D]Wish I could have been there when those crack heads opened it up!!![:-,]

Cuda, bummer to have your tools stolen. But I’m curious, how to do you end up getting the drive wheels out of quarter and a bent side rod? Trying to pull too many cars?

Ken,

Man sorry to hear about the loss. A question, can’t tell from the pic but is that a HEMI???

Gotta love a 69 with a hemi.

Gotta.

On the 69 Charger, just a blowen 440.

On the Hevy Mike, it was not pulling a load at all? I thought it hit a drity section of track so I pulled it and did not find the bent rod for a couple of weeks. I would guess it only has around 15 hours on it, did not like how quite the small tender made it. My other BLI’s would drown out the sound of the Mike.

Cuda Ken

DCC Reset:

Write 128To CV49

Write 255 to CV 50

Write 113 To CV 56 In Ops mode you will hear three hoots when reset is completed.

Analog reset:

Jumper reset

Turn of power

Remove tender body

Locate The black “clearing” jumper and remove by pulling up

Reapply the power whistle will sound with three hoots after a few seconds

Turn power off and reinstall the jumper and tender cab.

Gtx765