This is the latest run of gp 20… I have 2 of the first run and they came apart very easy.
So, of all things! I can’t get the shell off of this gp 20. I called Walthers and they said the fuel tank comes off and there are screws… This did work on my proto 2000 gp 30s (found that out myself)
IF the fuel tank on the gp 20 is held on by double sided tape, I want to know what brand it is. I have tried pyring (had the tank angled by about 20 degrees) with a micro screw driver in each end… it won’t come off and I don’t want to force it. Does anyone know if there are clips or whatever… I would like to put a decoder in this thing soon.
Okay, I just pulled 2 of the GP20 units from their boxes and found:
On the bottom of the fuel tank, almost in the center of the tank is a small screw. Remove this screw and the fuel tank can be removed from the locomotive. Once the fuel tank is removed, you will be able to see 2 more small screws out along the underside of the walkway. Remove these screws and the shell will lift off. If you have couplers installed, you might need to remove them in order to remove the shell.
If you are removing the shell planning on installing a decoder, be forewarned the the LED’s are 1.5V and will blow if you use a decoder that doesn’t regulate the voltage to the lights. Don’t ask me how I know…even though the instructions don’t mention anything about this little issue.
Don Z THANK YOU! I will try this when I get home tonight. I am installing a TCS T1 (ripping out the proto board ect.) so I will have to go through with the resistor setup. I hope I have the same version as you on one hand, but then… that means I missed a screw right smack in the middle of the tank (wow)
we’re almost namesakes, my ‘given’ name at a former worksite was DanZ. I almost set up a website danz.com just for the heck of it.
Don there was not screw in the bottem of the tank. It was double sided tape (like the other protos) But it held on like it was welded together. I got it done though.