Need help repairing Postwar F3 Power Truck

Classic Toy Trains Forum
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After shopping for several years, I finally found a postwar 2245 Texas Special A unit to go with my lonely B unit I bought years ago at an antique shop.

As with the problem with ebay, the seller said “Tested and runs in forward and reverse.” I personally think he lied…but that is another story.

The engine runs like a scalded cat in reverse, but will barely move forward. It will move forward if you place your hands on the wheels, and apply gentle pressure. If you remove your hand, the engine will not want to move, except for grunting down the track, maybe an inch or so.

We removed the motor, and it powers up and runs perfect when outside of the engine. The visible gears on the end of the motor spin freely, just like they should.

I strongly suspect that something is amiss in the power truck. We haven’t been able to identify what is wrong or missing in the power truck unit.

There seems to be a little more play in the wheel and axle sets, but not a great deal more than what is in my 2353 Santa Fe. Dad says he feels a little more play, but personally, I can’t feel any difference.

When power is applied in reverse, the brass gear seems to grab just fine, and the torque throws that gear to one side, inside the power truck unit, if that makes sense. But when the e-unit is cycled to foward, the engine just groans, and barely moves.

I’m pretty certain that the power truck has been apart before due to the condition of the screws in the power truck.

The brass gear and worm drive appear to be in good condition with no damage.

Here are my questions:

Is the worm gear and brass drive gear pressed into the power truck?

Does anyone know where I can find an exploded view, or even a picture of the inside of a power truck? There is not an e

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Horizontal (1954) or vertical (1955) motor?

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I knew I was forgetting some info in my OP. This is a 1954 horizontal motor.

Thank you so much!!!

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I had the same problem with my F3’s. Here is how to fix it, locate the two square bushings on the end of the worm shaft. Remove and make certain the bushings have the ball still intact. If so, verify they are installed with the little corner flat upwards. Now reinstall and reassemble. Move the wheels by hand while watching the worm shaft, it can move front to rear a little but ABSOLUTLY not up and down. You will find the brass gear is digging into the brass cover plate, or digging into the truck metal. To fix this, cut the very end off of a zip tie and insert behind the bushing to keep the gear centered as it changes direction. The soft plastic will keep it able to move a little to absorb the shock of it changing direction.

Your trucks really need new bushings, but you can get so much more life out of them by just shimming them a tad.

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Were you able to get it working?

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Not yet. It has been a frustrating week.

I am still not sure if we are missing parts from the inside of the rear power truck (RPT).

Are there supposed to be two ball bearings, one on each end?

Does the rear coupler have to be removed, including the two rivets that hold it in place, from the RPT to be able to remove the brass gear and worm drive?

If the ball bearings were missing from a RPT, would the RPT still work okay? I am assuming it won’t.

I’d like to attempt to repair this on my own, but I don’t know what parts I need or have a schematic of the RPT.

I don’t mind buying parts, if needed, like the ball bearings and bushings, but I want to buy the correct parts, and do it right the first time.

FWIW, I wonder if this power truck failed early in its life. There is very little wear on the trucks and pick ups, and the shell looks great!

Thanks!!!

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bearing/bushings for F3 horiz. motors are available. Got mine a few years back from Jeff kane at Train Tender.

Mike S.

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No need to buy any parts, simply shim the existing bushings to keep the gear centered. It will all come apart without needing to mess with the rivits. If you need to send me an email and I will give you my phone number. I can walk you thru it.

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Interesting … I have the same problem with my Texas Special F-3. I actually found a place to order new bushings, both for the axles and the worm gear. I started down this path because the drive gears on the axles were worn out. So after replacing all this stuff, I had the problem you described. I tried the tie wrap trick, no fix for me. I gave up and bought a replacement truck on EBay a couple of weeks ago, I’m still waiting to receive and can’t wait to get my 2245 running again. I’ve had this loco since I was a little kid. Even though it is beat up, it is one of my favorites. Once I have it running, I am thinking about getting it repainted.

Thanks for the tip, it was worth a try.

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Jstrains,

If you want, you can send me the trucks and I can give it a shot. There is definalty somthing wrong with the way the worm shaft is positoned.

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Fordman,

I appreciate the offer, I may take you up on it if my EBay parts don’t work out. My existing truck has bad wheels, so I am hoping what I bought on EBay is fine or I can take parts from the two trucks to make it work.

Thanks!

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Just make sure the wheels are tight on their axles.

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Fordiesel69,

Been meaning to get back to you on my progress … finally got around to doing so.

I got my EBay power truck, sure enough it was NOT in that good of shape, but fortunately not too bad. The bushings on the end of the worm gear were a bit loose, the hole in one was actually egg shaped. I replaced them with new ones and it mostly runs OK with two exceptions. I’m wondering if you have an idea what might be wrong.

First, the train runs kind of slow, usually after cycling directions. After it runs in forward for a while, it will suddenly speed up as if something was binding and it is no longer. Second, once in a great while it will squeal like the gears are slipping. The brass gears on the axles look a little worn, but not too bad. I’ve thoroughly inspected it and can’t see what is wrong, no brass shavings like the gears are getting ground up.

Thanks,

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The problem of starting slow and then suddenly speeding up is most likely a problem with the motor. If the motor end play allows something to rub against the housing, then the motor will have a lot of friction when you try to start it. However, at some point, the magnetic field will be strong enough to center the motor armature and the rubbing will stop. Try turning the wheels with your thumb while you hold the engine. They should turn relatively freely in both directions. If they don’t, start looking for something that is moving too much when you try to turn the wheels. Another possibility is that the motor bearing is worn enough that the armature is just barely rubbing on the field. Look for marks on the armature and/or sloppy bearings in the motor. Bruce Baker

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Thanks for the suggestion. I’m going to take a look at it this weekend. Is it possible to rebuild the motor if bearings are worn out? I’ve removed the “easy” end of the motor where the brushes are, but never attempted to disassemble the transmission end. I’m guessing that is where it may be worn out if that is the case.

JS

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