The strip opposite that long one, the one with the insulation strip on it, is that supposed to connect to the control rail on the curve on the outside or the same outside rail but the other part of it. In other words is it supposed to connect to the rail closest to the motor housing?
Because when I opened it up for the first time, that strip had come undone from the solder. So i resoldered it to where it was before. humm
Try wrapping a thin piece of cardboard around the strip connected to the straight control rail, at the places where it crosses over the long straight rail attachments, to be sure that there is not some hidden contact, like a bit of solder, underneath the strip making contact between the two.
Also look on the top of the turnout to be sure that the flange of the straight control rail is not bent outward and touching the curved rail near the frog. There is not much of a gap there.
The only other point I can see to check is the eyelet that attaches one end of the strip to the plastic, near the switch machine. Could that eyelet be touching the rail that is near its head on the top of the turnout?
Okay, I put some cardboard in place. I will give it a shot.
Each of those outer strips should connect only to a control rail at the very end of the strip. The other end should end in a pin that connects it to the switch motor.
Ok, Those strips are all soldered to the correct places. It did not work right when i put it on the layout. And that thin metal strip the is on the switch in the exact middle of the switch, where do those end tabs connect? I have one end to the Curve common rail and the other end is not connected to nothing, its just under one of the strips. What now??
It should be connected to the inner ends of the straight and curved center rails and, with a 4-36 x 3/16" binding-head screw to the “common center rail assy”. Check out the pictures at Olsen’s site.
Yeah, okay that strip is all okay.
I will test it one more time.
I just realized that you could open up another one of your 022s to resolve any questions about how it should look inside.
Ok, I tried hooking up the bad rails to a good motor. The bad rails worked just fine. I guess its not the rails, but it the motor that is bad. Now we narrowed it down. The rails are good, the motor housing needs looked at. Explain what I should look for. Maybe wires are soldered in wrong place, but i checked olsens and they are all the same. Humm
At least I know we have good rails but fussy motor. It was working for a second or two, Then went back to the way it way before. Not sure how to fix the motor problem. I tried resoldering all the joints and they are all good. Checked the wiring, all good. Maybe it has bad grounding or something. Let me know.
I don’t understand how you got that 1-ohm reading from a good turnout then. You did have the motor removed, didn’t you?
Are you testing with a controller, or just touching something to the turnout’s terminals? A bad controller could cause symptoms like you’re seeing.
When the turnout moves to the straight position, does the motor shut off; or is it continually forcing the points?
Check the bent tabs that hold the wires running on each side of the switch motor connecting the sliding plate with the solenoid. If the switch was ever accidently stepped on (e.g. on a floor layout) the tab can cut through the insulation just slightly enough to cause an intermittent short but be difficult to spot under the tab.
Yes, I did have the motor removed and still got a 1 ohm reading. Yes, I am testing with an 022 controller. I tried it on two different controllers, same result. Motor turns off when locked into the straight position, but when it in the curved position the motor forces it back to straight.
Those tabs were good. But, I had it working for a second or two, then it just got all goofed up again.
I also just turn the lantern to make it switch. Still nothing. No change. Motor compartment is free of rust and debris. Looks good, i dunno.
That 1-ohm reading has me baffled. I don’t see how that turnout could work, no matter what motor was connected to it. What resistance reading do you get if you take a completely good turnout, rumove the motor, and measure between the straight control rail and the straight outside rail?
What happens if you install the suspect motor on the other side of the turnout? Does the problem move to the curved path?
let me try it.
Now the switch stays in the curve position instead of the straight position, but still does the same thing. Still cannot figure this one out. I put the motor on the other side. Now stays in curve position. What do I do now?? Have you guys figured it out yet??