Waking up with question here.
Is there anything you can do on a locomotive (besides adding more weight, done it and out of room) to get more traction on the wheels.
Also, when oiling a locomotive, do you oil the plastic gears and the motor?
OooKay, below are the results from the repaint job (Santa Fe loco #3500 to Norfolk Southern).
The Santa Fe used to be red and silver, the cars were just different ones from my “collection”, completely repainted and decaled.
Bear in mind, this is the first model detailing I have done since I was 12 (some 47 yrs ago).
Hints and tips would be helpful. Especially on how to get the tiny decals (ones showing car weight,etc) off the paper and onto the body.
I use a LaBelle white grease (very little) on the gears. Makes more sense to me than their medium weight oil I also have, but that’s also ok. I use the needle applicator on their lightweight oil to add a teeny drop where the motor shaft comes out of the bushing/bearing (usually next to the flywheel) at each end. Keeps it from going dry.
Labelle has a video, link below. I think the guy suggest oil on the gears but I like grease.
Looks like your off to a good start! What is the “shinny black” under the decals?
As far as traction, what kind of loco are you using ? Are both trucks powered, or just one? Some of locos on the market that have just one truck powered, they use a small “traction wheel”, which is like a rubber “O” ring on the wheel. If you have this type, you can get replacement rings.
Way, way back, when I first started, and trying to build a “model” railroad from “toy” train sets, I would add all the weight I could, and add another loco to the train. I put locos on the track, and use the two that were “speed matched” the closest, and go with it.
Alot of guys have good luck with the Bullfrog Snot. I’ve never used it.
As far as the tiny decals, I use a very fine paint brush to move the decal from the sheet to the model. I’ve also let them float free from the paper, and “pick” them out of the water with the paint brush, and carefully apply and position, using the brush.
EDIT: Be real carefull if you use any oil around the motor. You’ll end up with a mess. I also use the LaBelle white grease on the gears. Just a tiny bit, maybe put on with a tooth pick.
Yes, decals need a shinny surface to stick to. What I have done, is after the decals have been applied, and dried. I use a light coat of “Dullcoat” over the whole loco. A small can of Teastors Dullcoat will go along way. Some modelers have used the proper solvent to dilute the dullcoat, and apply it with an air brush, which gives great results.
My Bullfrog Snot arrived today and I applied a small amount to one of my most disposalble locomotives, just a small amount.
It seems that the wheels can no longer get current from the tracks. The traction (pulling) wheels are the same ones that pick up the current from the rails.
Any other suggestions for getting traction on this locomotive.
I wonder what the locomotive is pulling. All of the cars should roll freely. Do the cars have metal wheels, and is there minimal friction on the ends of the axles for each car ?
Steve’s questions are to determine if you’ve Snot-ted ALL your wheels. If so, then you no longer have electrical pickup.
What you want to do is apply the B-Snot to just ONE pair of wheels. On a steamer, one set of drivers. On a diesel, one pair of wheels on one truck.
Also, it’s important that you do it as thinnly and evenly as possible for smooth running.
Another useful product is Tungsten Putty Weight by PineCar, a division of Woodland Scenics that produces Pinewood Derby car accessories. It’s a very heavy, moldable putty that makes it easy to add weight virtually anywhere on a loco. I stick it under the running boards and down the stack, among other places, on my steam locos. On diesels, it’s easy to tuck aways behind the pilot or in the nooks and crannies of the shell’s interior. Many full line hobby shops and Hobby Lobby carry it.