Background: classic L-girder / joists / sub-roadbed on risers and cleats, etc. My subterrain is built up mostly using layers of 2" and 1/2" pink foam board fastened horizontally across the joists. For my other elevations I carved “ribs” out of the 1/2" foam and glued them vertically to form all of my contours, going down from the sub-roadbed for valleys and above the sub-roadbed for large hills and mountains.
Problem: now, how do I apply my WS Plaster Cloth / SE Plaster Wrap across my rib supports (about 4" - 6" apart) without the final, dried result having the “ribs” show through? I’ve tried some cadboard strips in the mix but they seem to create the same problem. I’ve tried working with window screen as a first layer but it is difficult to work with and sags some. I’ve followed some of the older MR threads on this topic and seen the use of miles of masking tape as a base layer layed across rib construction such as mine. I realize using SculptaMold comes in handy at this point but my thinking is that is for major sins, not trying to hide the support ribs. Advice from those experienced in this area appreciated, as always. Thanks.
Hi mr: FWIW, I used mostly cardboard strips for the majority of my scenery, although I have used some foam in a few areas. Never the less, I used the same technique for both. I used a mixture of 1 part Sculptamold to approx. 3 or 4 parts Structolite/Gypsolite mixed to a “oatmeal” consistency to cover the base. As you can see in the second photo, all the “ribs” disappeared. Just my opinion.
Also, to keep your screen or strips from sagging…if that is what they intend to do…stuff some plastic grocery bags with crumpled newspaper, tie off the top using the handles as “shoe laces”, and stuff a bunch of them under the screen expanses. If necessary, slide slats of wood below these expanses, held up by frame members, and then use the pastic bags. It is what I did, and the results were quite gratifying.
I use wadded newspaper in a plastic bag so the plaster cloth won’t soak it, or bubble wrap, smooth side up over cardboard strips under the plastercloth.
I also wear latex gloves like EMTs wear. It makes the plaster cloth easier to handle because it doesn’t stick like it does to a bare hand, and after you just peel the gloves off and throw them away. No cleanup.
I use the tops cut off styrofoam egg cartons to flesh out my landforms. The papier mâché ones should work just as well. They can be stapled to the supports and they will even tolerate hot glue. You can glue them together to make longer or wider strips. Then I just put the plaster cloth over them. For the final coat, I use drywall compound.
Thanks for the help. Lots of great stuff. I’ve been able to locate Gypsolite at a LHS (deer-in-the-headlights look to requests for same as well as “perlited plaster” at my local big box stores and Sherwin Williams). Nice tip on using newspaper inside plastic grocery bags (I am trying to minimize use of paper due to fire concerns) and using examination gloves to work with the plaster cloth.
In their two volume scenery video setmodel-trains-video.com shows using masking tape to cover a cardboard mesh. I found this worked very well for me (much better then stretching cheesecloth over a cardboard mesh then painting on plaster). The ‘droppage’ between strips nearly disappeared. I suspect this method would work well for you too if you put squares of plaster cloth over the masking tape.
On my 1st (4x8) BC&SJ layout scenery was chickenwire covered with paster cloth squares. I didn’t bother with dunking in a bucket. Instead I cut about 8"x8" squares and held them in place with one
