Ok, Here is what I have. NCE PowerCab System / New Proto2000 Limited Edtion GP-38 / Digitraxx Decoder
Whats wrong? I cant get it to take any program or even respond to attempted commands.
Here is what I have done: When I first got the GP38, I tested on DC, and it worked just fine.
I grabbed another engine, a GP 60, with a Digitraxx decoder, (same model decoder in fact) and was able to run the engine and program just fine.
I puilled the DC jumper board out and plugged in the 8 pin tail from the adapter from the Digitraxx 'coder and plugged it all up. As far as I can tell, its solid, all connections are good. I am at a complete loss.
So, you are saying that the GP-38 won’t even respond to address “3” (default) commands. Did you attempt to change address “3” to another number? Are you using the programming track to program or are you programming on the main? Is the 8-pin adapter in backwards by chance? We’ll get this figured out…
Yup. Nadda. I had a peice of flex track setup and was useing that to program. I had been going in on “Program On Main”. After reading your post, I went back and programmed useing “program track mode”. it worked alittle better. But, after the makers ID number came up, its said Unable To Read CV. I tried again, and samething. I have a feeling the decoder is bad, or I am just very unlucky.
I went through and reprogrammed all of my other engines too , converting to 4 digit address ( I had been useing a MRC Prodigy and all were just 1 or 2 digit) Everything went well. Most of my decoders are DigiTraxx.
But get this…[banghead] I tried to programm my Atlas with QSI sound and DCC and it couldnt read a CV and wouldnt let me change the address. After which, it became a paperweight. No response. I had to drag out my old MRC system to reprogram to its old number. At which point, it worked fine on the NCE system. Is there any news about the Power Cabs not programming adress on QSI? (Atlas/BLI)?
Some of the Proto GP 38s have an extra light across the Black and Gray wires in the wiring for Number board lights. Check to see if your unit has 2 bulbs on each end. If it does then you have the number board light model. This light has to be removed as it presents a short to the decoder and may short out the decoder. The number board lights can be wired to other functions in the decoder to make them work. BOB H – Clarion, PA
Many SOUND decoders can’t be read on program tracks, because they just take too much power. If you can’t read a non-sound decoder, I’d check wiring (short and at least 20 gauge), clean track & wheels, etc. If nothing else helps (or you go for sound), there are two options: They can still be programmed on the main (unless of course they get some random address you can’t talk to, so be careful when changing addresses). Get a program track amplifier, like this one from Tony’s: http://www.tonystrains.com/technews/powerpax.htm (sorry the URL thing doesn’t seem to work on Macs). I’ve had no trouble with mine.
Set CV8 to 08. That resets the decoder to factory defaults. Then try again. If you still can’t read the decoder, and neither can ayone else. Return it to Digitrax with a letter of explaination. I bet they replace it FOC.
Well, Ill be. It does have 2 sets of lights at either end. I admit, I was pretty confused to why it would have a second light light for the rear. I will take alook at the lights and get rid of the 2nd one int he rear. Keep ya posted.
Yup, yet another “DCC Ready” loco that is anything but.
Big pet peeve of mine - my solution is generall to remove any circuit boards supplied and hard wie in decoders - then I KNOW they’ll work. But it sure would be nice if someone, either the NMRA, or the manufacturers themselves, would come up with some sort of standard as to what the term “DCC Ready” really means.
To me, a truly DCC ready loco would have one of the standard NMRA sockets, and you could plug in any brand of decoder that has the matching plug, and that’s it. No resistors, no changing bulbs, no rewiring anything. OR a decoder specifically manufactured for that model would simply plug right in. FOr example, the DH163L0 in the Proto2000 GP-7’s. Truly plug and play, unlike said GP-38 which is designed to take the same decoder - oh, but we put some extra lights in that are wired across the motor in such a way as to break the decoder’s isolation. Inserting the controlling decoder into just one side of the motor circuit might have worked for ASTRAC, but definitely won’t work for DCC.
Oh Randy, you know my pain. Of course, I see the 8 pin plug, cool what a breeze… Yeah right [banghead]
So, I got it working, thankfully. Another complaint… I wish they could have just given another 1/8, hell, even a 1/16 inch more clearance for the decoder and wire mess. What a pain squeezing it all back together between the shell and weight. Ugh
I followed the advice above about the lights, but they were all black and white wired. No grays. I yanked the ones that looked to be the light boards, but in the end… no matter what I did, I lost all the lights. I know I left the others plugged in, and in the right spots, but for what ever reason, no glow. Good news it finally runs. This engine is for my son. It is his very first “big boy” engine. (He is 6) and after last night and all my frustration and our ups and downs, he is just thrilled that it runs. Which, it does run well.
I think when the dust clears in time, I will pick up one of the decoders that has a board with it as well and reattach and put it all togehter right. But if the sun shines on me today, I wont have to fart with it for awhile.
Which decoder did you use? Since you mention repalcing it with a board-type, I assume it wasn’t the DH163L0. They do fit in very neatly since they are no bigger than the original diode board. They have solder pads for addiitonal functions, so you would be able to wire new number board lights to those. If you used another DH163 series decoder, you should have extra wires to where you could attach the extra lights. Resistors will be required no matter what, as even the DH163L0 only includes the resistors for the headlight and rear light.
I bet they dont. Or at least theyll charge $35 for repair. Digitrax waranty has told me that twice. First dec was p&p and fried on the program track as soon as power was put to the rails. The second went thru program track and went pop on the layout. And I meen POP. with smoke. Thats all I got to say about digitrax. 2 out of 2 bad decoders is not a good record. Ive emailed tech and they said send them for repair for $35 !!! they only cost me $25 new. Must be new math. I wont even look at a digitrax decoder if you give it to me for free!!
Off hand, I am not sure. It was a 123 type with the stanard blue chip that had the 9 pin slot, then came with a tail wire harnes that had the 8 pin plug on the other end. I have had decent luck with the 123’s before in my RTR Athearn’s. But, after the fact now, I am pretty sure I got the wrong decoder for the aplication, meaning, I could have gotten better. Good news is though this one seems to work fine, so atleast I will have a spare, or another decoder that I can use for somethign else. Spares are always good. Thanks for thelp everyone. Helped keep my sanity. Thank the stars this forum.