Night Crawler, Your modeling is superb, as usual, I know you as TW on the Atlas forum, Folks, I have been keeping up with this man"s modeling for a long time, and he is a fantastic modeler, and kind and gentle in all his posts, never knew night crawler to let anyone get him to say any thing derigotory about anyone, He is just one super modeler, and I respect, and appreciate his efforts, as I know all of you do, Way to go TW, I mean Night Crawler, You are the best.
Mac
thanks for all the compliments guys. i should have them finished this weekend and ready to hit the rails. every time i go into the hobby shop i buy stuff that i dont need and forget the stuff i do need [:D] i need to go again and get another drill bit so i can add the fuel fillers to the frames on the other 3.
i am starting to run out of Southern Pacific projects. the only locomotives i still need are ones that no one makes yet, except for the GP38-2 and GP40-2. i think that when i get done with these i’ll try my hand at scratchbuilding/kitbashing a couple of SP TEBU’s
Jeremy, i used the grills from S&S hobby products. i got them from Walthers.
Nightcrawler, you are truely amazing! This is exactly what this forum was made for.
Nightcrawler - I saw your “Suffern Pacific” and you said it actually exsisted. Could you give a little more back ground - Seems quite interesting.
i found pictures of the Sufferrn Pacific SD40R on http://espee.railfan.net click on diesel index, then on 6 axel EMD’s, then you will see a link for it at the bottom of the road number list.
it doesnt fit my era, but i had to make it anyway because it was so interesting [:D]
FINISHED!!!
after all the previous parts were installed, i painted the unit with Polly Scale SP Lark dark grey and SP scarlet. after the paint had dried, i sprayed the locomotive with Teators Glosscote and let it dry. then i added the decals from Microscale (items 87-447, 87-1069, 87-857) i brush on some of Microscales micro-set, then add the decal. after that dries, i brush on some Micro-sol. after the micro-sol dries, i pop any air bubbles and add some more. i usually do this 4 or 5 times so the decal really sits well into the cracks and lines of the shell. be sure the decal is completely dry before brushing on more or you will tear up the decal. the micro-sol makes them really soft and easy to ruin. after the declas had dried completely, i sprayed the model with testors Dullcote to seal everything and to prepare it for weathering.
I weathered these locomotives with a little bit of rust paint from floquil and some artists chalks (artists chalks can be found at almost any art or crafts store, get the softest kind they have, it blends better). i shave off some dust from the chalk stick then use a bru***o spread it around. after i got everything weathered the way i wanted it, i sprayed on another coat of dullcote to seal the chalk.
now, it’s time to add the windows and some other details. the details i added were A line brass sunshades (item 29210), Details West MU cables (item MU-236), DW MU hose (item MU-266) and DW rotary beacon (item RB-106) i also added the nose grabs and then i added the handrails. give the ends of the handrails and the step edges a touch of white paint, and paint all the other details. then run the wires for the lights, install the bulbs in their holes, and secure the wires with tape or glue to the top of the shell to keep them out of the way. you will have to drill out the light holes in the Sunrise castings. i used a #55 drill bit to do this.
I think I have the right to say one word: WOW![:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0][:0]
Reed
thanks! I dont think i will be trying this again [:D] that was a little more work than i have time to do. i have one more hard poject, and thats the pair of SP TEBU’s that i am going to be starting on next. they will be basically a complete scratchbuild from the walkways up. they dont look too hard to build, not many complicated pieces except for the DB section.
stay tuned for my next guide on building the TEBU’s!!! you can watch me really screw them up[:D][:O][:D][:D].
Nightcrawler,
All I can say about your work: STUNNING CRAFTSMANSHIP! I’m printing up this thread and refer to it as I detail my HO units.[swg][tup]
Question: What type of glue did you use for the “See Thru” grills?? And, what technique did you use? Any tips or hints would be greatly appreciated! [8)]
As you might have read on another post, I cut out the plastic radiator grills out of an Athearn FP45 and attempted to installed See Thru grills cut from Plano metal grill material (Plano Products). Looked really nice! I then applied Ambroid but they were still a little loose so I came back with liquid CA. Winded up ruining the surrounding body area! I have 3 more FP45s, so I want to try again “the right way!” by using the “gel” type CA and taking my sweet time![:)][:D][8D][8)]
God Bless!
i used some “Gap filling” CA. it is pretty thick stuff. i spread some around the edges of the hole then placed the grill on top. it seems to hold really well so far.
Nice job Night Crawler!
Thanks! Will give it a shot! The next FP45 I do is the Santa Fe Dark Blue/Yellow " " Face- Mask Scheme. I’ll paint the model after putting on the grills.
[:D]
HEY!!! Quit crawling and STAND UP and TAKE A BOW. [bow]
EXQUISITE WORK!!! [tup] [tup]
Great job. [bow] to you. It would be interesting to see what you could do with a bash of the SD45T-2.
Dang, NightCrawler even did a COTTON BELT tunnel motor. What a novel idea.
Great job really nice craftsmanship NightCrawler! What kind of chassis did you use on the SD40T-2? And how did you secure the shell to the chassis?
That was enough to make me want to go to walthers.com and buy some detailing parts!!
A+++++++[tup][bow][tup]
i used the regular Athearn SD40T-2 chassis. the SD50 motor fits right in. i just use the couplers to hold the body onto the chassis. i had to grind down the coupler mounting pads a bit so i could screw on the Kadee coupler boxes. that way everything is isolated for DCC and the screw-on coupler boxes hold the shell on pretty well.
thanks for all the compliments[:D] i was thinking of doing a SD45T-2 once till Athearn announced theirs. now i just have 12 on order, but i still have to add new cabs with the rebuilt L windows to make them right for my era. i wish someone would hurry up and make a really nice SD40T-2 that’s up to todays standards. i could use 12 of those too[:O][:D] i dont think i could talk myself into building more of them myself…that was a lot of work!!![:D]
Here’s hoping Athearn does an updated SD40T-2 as well … they can add DRGW to their paint scheme collection if they do.
Since I model the SP in the 1980s, a DRGW SD40T-2 or two would not be out of place on the Siskiyou Line in the late 1980s …
Now that’s good modelling. I’ve always felt the late Athearn SD40 drive was one of their best BB ones (with one piece driveshafts) and the detail work looks brilliant too. I think my SD40T-2 will now be one of my first BB DCC conversions, especially if I can find the detail parts - inspired by this project. Great stuff!