Ive always wanted to get into model railroading and finally have a nice garage to do so im looking at doing a layout around 300 sq ft or so modeled after csx coal hauling routes in kentucky where im from im wanting to go dcc so thats where my questions begin what is a good dcc control system to use that will control several locos and light sound and horn funtions along with signaling and even possibly turnout switches or should i wire the turnouts to like toggle switches and have a main control board im wanting to use code 83 track but dont know what brand or kind would be best i am also really struggling on the whole wiring turnouts should they be isolated plastic frogs or metal wired frogs im leaning towards metal wired frogs but im really intimidated about how to wire the frogs and what relays to use to control what polarity to the frog and when ive read and read forums but still dont know how or where to get the switching motors or what i need to power the frogs or isolate the tracks where or when i know this is alot of rambling questions but i want to be prepared before starting on this huge project also a list of the best products you all recommend and where the best place you all buy from would be very very helpful thanks in advance from the greenhorn lol
Welcome!
DCC - Lots of good brands out there. NCE and Digitrax are by far the most popular in North America. Both of these brands have ‘Starter Sets’ that can be expanded. The ‘Sound’ is in the engine decoder, not the system. Both the NCE Powercab system or the Digitrax Zephyr Xtra system will allow you to operate several trains/throttles at one time. Both of these systems allow a home computer to interface with the system. You can ‘build’ CTC like panels on the screen and control your turnouts/signals.
Turnouts - Atlas, Walthers, & Peco all have code 83 trackage that is ‘DCC Friendly’. If you are going to want to make the metal frogs ‘Hot’ - either switch motor contacts(like on the ‘Tortoise’ or ‘Frog Juicers’ can automatically provide the correct polarity.
Jim
learn punctuation lol
Read “Trackplanning for Realistic Operation” by John Armstrong. It covers all sorts of things youwant to know about layouts. Read some copies of Model Railroader. Figure any manufacturer that advertises regularly in the magazines is reasonably OK.
Do some long range planning. Is that garage space yours for keeps, or is there a possibility of moving to a different house? If moving might be in your future, take a look at modular layouts, which come apart and you can take 'em with you.
Think about 4 by 8 table layouts vs around the walls layouts. Around the walls takes a bit more carpentry to get 'er done, but it’s perfectly do able. Think about backdrops. Especially for around the walls, it really pays to put up and paint the backdrop BEFORE you do the benchwork.
roarks,
First off, welcome to the forum! Second, I gotta ditto Dave’s sentiments. A few periods at the end of sentences make differentiating one thought from another much easier for those of us trying to help. Thanks.
Tom
[#welcome]
You had mentioned how to power and control turnouts. WHile you could power and turnouts from the DCC system, it adds to the cost and complexity of the DCC. Powering the turnout control directly from the DCC adds to the amperge draw on the system; it is probably better to buy a separate power supply to run the turnouts.
For throwing the turnout points, you can buy a stationary DCC decoder, and run the turnout from the DCC throttle. This would involve selecting the turnout decoder address on the throttle, throwing the turnout, then re-selecting the locomotive. Another route would to make a control panel, and use either DPDT switches or pushbuttons to control the turnout. If you use Tortoise machines, you will need to use DPDT switches. If you use twin coil switch machines, use pushbuttons.
This is a Tortoise http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/800-6000
The “Hare” is a statinary decoder that is designed to attach to a Tortoise
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/246-DSPHARE1
This is a Digitrax stationary decoder that can control 1 or 2 Tortoise machines or twin coil swtich machines
http://www.digitrax.com/products/stationary-decoders/ds52/
These are just a couple of examples, there are lots to choose from - also , note the cost
Roaks, [#welcome]
I agree on the use of whole sentences and even paragraphs to clarify your questions!
Have you done ANY research on DCC systems, and have you any idea which system you might like?
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I’m sorry for the punctuation errors. Will try to do better on future posts and questions. Just wanted to say thank you to the ones that did go ahead and give me some really helpful advice. That helped to clarify a lot of stuff.
I admit it’s not one of the more popular DCC systems and has only limited computer interface abilities (I don’t use mine with a computer), but I have enjoyed years of trouble-free use from an MRC Prodigy Advance DCC system. It was inexpensive, has been very reliable and is very easy to understand and operate. All of the kids who have operated my layout take to it easily, some as young as five years old. The large display is easy to read and understand and does not use proprietary icons. I don’t know anything about MRC’s customer service as I’ve never had a need to use it. I plan to purchase a wireless throttle conversion set with a second wireless throttle in the near future.
If I had to select another DCC system, I would probably go with NCE as I have read favorable reviews, the throttle units are somewhat similar to the MRC throttles and it will apparently perform the few functions the MRC system can’t. I was not especially impressed with the Digitrax throttles I used on two different layouts during actual operating sessions. I used a basic Digitrax throttle (model number unknown) on one layout that, while pretty straight forward, simply felt rather “Old School” and even a bit cobbled together. The DT400R throttle I was handed on the other layout had a display that was difficult to read, used several proprietary icons unfamiliar to me, and apparently was too difficult to explain its proper use in the time we had available before the fast clock was started. Instead, I was told “I’ve assigned your throttle to this locomotive. Here is the speed control knob and here is the reversing switch. Don’t touch anything else!” When I eventually did accidently press another button, I could not figure out what I had done or how to return to the previous setting. I had to go back to the guy who set it up for me to have him restore the previous settings (again with no explanation of how to do it myse
What Dave said. Purchase books and educate yourself on the topics. For now I wouldn’t do anything except learn. For a first time effort into building a layout you seem to be interested in items that can be involved and tricky for the novice to accomplish. As stated, NCE and Digitrax are reliable products, also using alternative power for non-track power is a good idea. You are biting off quite a bit in your first effort, slow down and learn, and in my view, simplify as much as you can.
Sorry for the punctuation errors. Ill try to do better in my future posts and questions. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone that did reply with an actual answer to my questions. It shed alot of light on my layout plans and helps me to decide and move on in the planning stages. So again thanks to all the great answers I’m sure there will be several more questions through out this long process look forward to getting your guys expert opinions
Welcome to the forums.
When looking into a DCC system, try to find out what others in your area have. That was the first question the dealer asked me. There are a couple of resons to do this. One is that with others having the same system the “show me” method of learning is easily done. If you want to go to someone elses layout to operate with them or have them visit you, your systems will be compatable. The different DCC systems componets will not work with another brand, even though they operate the same decoders in your locos. If there is a club or round robin group in your area, see what they suggest.
Good luck,
Richard
RR,
An expert I’m not, but having a finished garage goes a long way towards keeping down the dust and debris accumulation. Also, some sort of covering or coating for the concrete floor helps too. If your layout must share the garage with an automobile a tight sealing roll-up sectional door is a good idea.
Figuring what type of layout lighting you desire and how to install it is important.
As mentioned, Kalmbach modelrailroading books contain a wealth of information. Check out Lance Mindheim’s website and blog, a lot of good food for thought there.
good luck, regards, Peter
A+ on punctuation improvement. [;)] Welcome aboard. Dan
Gidday, a belated [#welcome] to the forum,
It’s great to see such enthusiasm but I’d suggest that you take a deep breath before you overwhelm yourself, the risk being that you bog yourself down with too much information, “sensory overload” I think they call it.[%-)]
One of your queries was regarding turnouts & turnout motors. I’d suggest that as long as they are in easy reach that you use hand throws, cheaper and less wiring. I use Peco turnouts, they have a built in spring, but that’s just my preference.
A lot of model railroading comes down to personal preference, so you will find that while you may ask a straight forward question, you may get seemingly conflicting advice, there is not necessarily a wrong way, just different methods/ systems of achieving a similar result. The trick is working out what’s best for you and, realising that from time to time you may get it “wrong”.
The most thing to remember is HAVE FUN.[:D]
Cheers, the Bear
Him from tablet probably is writing. PITA to call up caps or puncts. Was difficult to read, so LION dint read it.
Him also talk about DCC : LIONS know naught about DCC, so no sense putting cents here.
ROAR
Even for informal writing, like on a forum, it helps to use proper writing conventions (especially for long posts). I would think you want others to understand what you’re saying!
I found these websites to have a lot of good information related to planning and layout design:
I hate to tell you this, Lion, but I do all my posting these days from a tablet, and while I do get the occasional typo, that’s caused by my fat thumbs, not the keyboard. It’s only one additional keystroke to get caps and punctuation. Thr only real problem with the tablet is that the mobile interface isn’t nearly as robust as the full site, and the tablet doesn’t play nice with the full site. To the OP, welcome. My biggest advice is to start small and don’t overwhelm yourself. It’s easy to get in over your head and abandon the hobby in frustration. There is another thread on this site where many of us old-times share our nuggets of wisdom for newcomers. Also, I will second the opinion of MRC DCC systems. I’ve been running their Prodigy Wireless system for about six years now with no issues (and I’ve barely cracked the manual). The only potential downside is the computer interface, which doen’t interest me anyway.
Roaks,
I re-iterate my first Question:
Have you done ANY research on DCC systems, and have you any idea which system you might like?
The reason I ask, is everyone here will be partial {as opposed to impartial} to their favorite DCC system.
I use the simple/easy to use Bachmann EZ Command DCC as an entry leverl that has served me well on my little hO pike.
Others would not be caught DEAD with it!
IF, and/or rather WHEN I upgrade I used to think I’d go Digitrax Zephyr Xtra system, but some here have made me think if Poer Cab as an alternative for ease of use {in postings similar to this, not to me personally in a post to me}.
SO, what have you considered?
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