After thinking about it for a while now ( years actually,lol ) I think I am going to make the switch over to DCC for my small switching layout. I am thinking about going with the NCE Power Cab Entry Level DCC Set. What I was wondering though can I run in DC mode somehow until I can add decoder to some older locos or aquire some DCC equpipped ones.
Believe NCE does not support DC. It is a good set though. I’m a digitrax user so a NCE user could shed more light on the capabilities of their Power Cab.
Not sure about that system. I’ve got a Lenz and it will allow you to run in DC mode.
But, you won’t like it. The engines run poorly, and they buzz like a flying saucer from an old Buck Rogers movie. To me, that was a huge incentive to put decoders in every engine, and not run them until I’d done that.
I use Digitrax, but am certain NCE doesn’t run DC. Running a DC loco on DCC is bad as a form of AC is run through the rails at all times. DC motors don’t like AC. They hum and can become over heated I believe. NCE is a good choice. Joe
Experts usually recommend to go all the way and eliminate DC from the layout. I have a switch that allows me to run my layout either DC either DCC. It’s not without risk, but it’s lower risk than having a mixed system where trains can accidentally run from a DC section to a DCC section, which could burn your decoder (or worse). Simon
How many DC engines do you have, and how good are they?
In your situation, I would get one double-pole, double-throw (DPDT) toggle switch and wire the system so that it can be either DC or DCC, but the two can’t ever both be connected. That will let you run your DC engines when you want, or your DCC engines when that’s your choice.
If you’d still prefer to run them together, make sure your decoders are dual-mode, so you can run them on DC. It’s a better option to run your DCC engines on DC, providing they can handle it, than run your DC engines on DCC.
I am completely DCC now, but I ran DC locomotives for a couple of years on the zero stretched adddress. The only time they buzzed is if they were running VERY slow or stopped. I never had any trouble with any of them. You just have to remove them from the layout or park them on an unpowered siding when not in use.
Not all command stations can run a DC unit, so check before you buy.
My only comment and suggestion is that those of us who made the transition from DC to DCC have been in the same situation of wanting to have the ability to run both. My suggestion is not to base your DCC purchase on a system’s ability to run DCC as you may limit yourself.
I agree with those who suggest the ability to switch the layout from DCC to DC through a switch. Then you can base your DCC system purchase on the features that suit your needs without the DC ability being a distraction.
In due time you will find yourself running the DC less and less.
NCE does not support DC operation of locomotives, but you can easily keep a DC power pack and use a toggle switch to change from DC to DCC power on a layout. Just make sure you don’t try to use both at the same time.
Personally, I think the NMRA made a big mistake by allowing for operation of a DC loco with a DCC system, but with decoders costing in the range of $75-$100 when the DCC recommended practices were adopted, understand why they did so.
If you inadvertently leave a DC locomotive on a DCC powered track for an extended period of time, the motor can overheat and be severely damaged or even destroyed. One local modeler swears that a DCC system caused a DC motor on his layout to be demagnetized, but I think that motor must have been very defective to begin with.
If you really want to run DC locos, the DPDT is the way to go. Some years ago our club still had blocks when we started with a NCE 5 amp Power Pro. We had 14 blocks and tried to use a couple blocks for DCC at times. As geezers usually do, some got into gabbing and a couple locos crossed a DC/DCC boundary, blocks and smoked the booster. After that, we never allowed anymore DC running. Eventually re-wired the Layout.
Few years ago I used an infra red temperature scanner and the point where the motor bushed contact the commutator gets really hot when the loco is not moving. The AC component in the DCC waveform causes the armature to vibrate at the DCC frequency.
My experience is similar to that of Dave. I run a Digitrax Zephyr Extra and am still running 2 DC locos with minimal buzzing and no problems. I do store them on tracks that can be powered off. Dante
Early on, they actually were - you could build a throttle circuit and attach it to the serial port of the PH Pro command station. Couldn’t use the computer interface at the same time, it was one or the other. That feature was removed many firmware revisions ago.
I’ve test run many locos without decoders using my Zephyr and address 00. Never burned one up yet. But I don’t leave the test loco just sitting there not moving, nor do I run it for hours at a time with no decoder. The extra-strong pulses actually helped with an old Bowser PRR T1 that had never been run before, it would just trip the breaker on the DC pack I had, but the Zephyr was able to get it to turn over and after running it back and forth for a while, it finally loosened up and ran as it should.