Based on the additional photo’s, it looks like the benchwork could indeed be widened a few inches near the door since the end of the layout is off-set away from the wall with the door, enough to make a significant difference in the radii.
I can’t emphasize enough that even a small increase in radii makes a large difference at those low radii figures. Going from say 18 to 24 inches is HUGE in HO and removes most restrictions on what you can run. These days in HO I’d strongly suggest a minimum of 28 inches but anything you can do in that direction would make a difference in what you can run with smoothness and reliability.
In HO, 24-inches should be an absolute minimum - you’ll notice these days that some longer cars such as passenger cars or long autoracks in some cases suggest a minimum of 24 inches. Usually that minimum is exactly that - just like a computer you don’t want to use the minimum memory, its best to us a radius above the minimum recommended for HO train cars. Most longer cars are manufactured to run on 22 minimum but to be safe, go with 24-inches if you are very limited on space.
The other end appears to have a book shelf next to the side so there is a little room to widen that too.
If you use KATO Unitrack in HO, they have a wide range of curves between 18 and 31 inches. I’ve read that the EZ track turnouts are very poor quality - I’ve read a lot of complaints of the quality Bachman EZ track turouts. So I’d recommend KATO HO Unitrack if you are going with modular track - and it’s fairly economical surprisingly when ordered from places like MB Klein etc. KATO does make 24 inch curves in sectional as well as other radii so it’s got lots of options.
Again all feedback is greatly appreciated! Here is a snapshot of the revised benchwork dimensions. Both ends will accomodate up to 24" radius now the left end more comfortably…
As for the EZ track it is my sons oval that is normally setup on the floor I just borrowed it gauge things up. I will actually be using Peco code for the layout with cork road bed for the layout, unless convinced otherwise.
I know there have got to be folks out there that like designing in SCARM as much as I like bench work… Anybody willing to give me there recommendation on track work considering the bench work? I will gladly email the file and a summary of the important things to us…
When I was at about your stage of development years ago, I was informed that if I wanted to run certain brass engines I would need at least 30" radius to do so, so I made my minimum 32". It required a little rebuilding, but I got’er done. With your situation you can go ahead with what you have there and if down the road you decide you need to go wider on the ends, you should be able to add to the width or make up some temporary “clipons” to use when running big engines and or rolling stock.
Have you considered flip up “wings” to hold parts of each turnback? Basically the front half table for each curve would be hinged to drop down when not in use. They could be down for normal access and flipped up when in operation. This would allow much wider curves.
Now on my railroad, I do use 18" curves and Atlas #4 switches. I know it’s not ideal and my layout probably breaks half the rules of design, but the space I got is the space I got so I live with it.
Again, I’d make 24 inch radius your “minimum” rather than your “up-to” or maximum. That way you wan’t be limited on what you can run - tight curves are a model railroaders enemy as are things like S-curves. I’d also recommend using minimum #6 turnouts and save anything smaller for industrial yards.
You should be fine with Peco other than it can be a bit pricey but it’s good quality. I’ve got some Peco code 100 turnouts in my staging track, but am using code 83 and 70 in the main visible portions of the layout as it looks a little finer.
First, terrific work so far! Second, I am SO envious of the space you have available.
On constructive ideas, please take into account that I may have missed or may build upon some points already made above. Having said that, I would emphasize, much from my experience with constraints and compromises on my smallish 5 x 10’ or so HO layout still in progress:
I did not take note of what you plan to run / not run. I wanted to be able to run UP passenger cars and large (big boy) locos so I wanted to have all the radius I could but could not achieve the 30"-plus desired. So I set my target radius at 26", maybe having some at 25 but most at 26+. It gets down to not operability (I did not plan old brass engines, etc) but looks. Depending on the particular rolling stock, the Walthers 80’ streamline cars look worse than the (Athearn) Big Boy and Challenger. But I am happy I can have them and run them (and the grandkids don’t care). My point is to determine what radius is your target and push to that.
Next, do consider carefully what minimun distance to allow between your outer tracks and the edge. Basis my experience, you may want more at the “back” (and sides) than at the front, and underdoing it can really limit the end result. You can add a “rollover guard” at the front, so in my opinion that can be somewhat smaller. I found later that I wanted to add “flats” plus background buildings at the back, particularly, and wish I had included another inch! This competes with your min radius but if you plan those together you will be happier.
Having said the above, I’d look carefully at how to get more width radius at the one (narrowest) end, in particular. I think someone above hit the nail on the head…pulling the curve away from the door would help, in combination with making a wider benchwork at the turn(s) with a greater bulge, while giving th
Again thank you everyone for the feedback and advice… With the latest revision, my bench work will comfortably allow for 24" radius on both ends. Consuming anymore space may end up with me looking for a place to live! I feel this will be perfect for the trains I plan to use and how I plan to use them. Working on track design and acquiring materials, I will continue to update as things progress.
Pretty well set on Peco track and switches, Im sure everyone has an opinion on cork vs foam roadbed? I only have experience with cork and tenatively plan to go that route… Pros&Cons?
Also overwhelmed doing research on DCC systems. Looking for some input… Obviously attracted to wireless but want a reliable, user friendly system with support? Only 1 controller to begin with, dont see ever using more than 2 and think 5amps will be sufficent. NCE/MRC others?
Im sure these will have varying opions but Im curious to hear them and learn what other questions I need to be asking myself… Thanks!
Pretty impressive so far, and I have to congratulate you on asking for advice before you make mistakes you will regret.
As far as DCC goes, I am an NCE fan, but I think the best advice is to stay away from the lower end systems like Bachmann and MRC. If you can get an opportunity to try the various systems out that would really help you decide. I went with NCE because I was much more comfortable with the layout of the throttle than I was with Digitrax, but that’s just me.
I think you are right to go with wireless throttles given the length of your layout. Wireless will allow you to follow your trains without tripping over long cords or having to move your throttle from one socket to the next.
I think you will be glad you pushed your minimum to 24 inches radius. You will find longer cars may not look pretty on them, but at least most should operate with a minimum of tinkering. AFAIK, Genesis, Walthers etc. 89’ freight cars are designed to operate on 24 inch curves, auto racks, passenger cars etc.
Peco has always been considered a very good quality track. The code 100 switches are fairly reasonably priced too. Code 83 Peco is pricey however, but is the only Peco that is manufactured to look like American track FYI. The code 100 is designed to look like British track details, although if you don’t look close, you might never notice the differences. British track doesn’t use spikes but spring clips instead - I was just over there with my British wife and was looking at the track when we were traveling down to London’s Kings Cross station.
I’m old school and use cork since I prefer to fix my track down with Atlas track nails and or spikes - easy to pull up with needle nose plyers if I need to change track orienation etc. I prefer not to use glue or adhesives because it is permanent essentially the moment you put your track down. Others prefer adhesives and foam. I do plan on using foam for scenery, just not under my track.
