I finally insulated my basement using pressure-treated split 2x4s and Tuff-R foam insulation. Silicone-sealed then covered with 1/4" luan:
L-girders are made from 1x3 with 1x2 caps. Joists are 1x4s.
…around the peninsula…
Now I need big loops at each end.
Corner detail (insulated box at lower left is the Water Meter).
Oops, lost the Warter Mter photo: 2nd photo with the pipe coming out.
WOW!! Lots of work there. Good looking project. Why did you paint the benchwork ,if I may ask? Do you have a track plan?
[:O] Looks pretty serious! Just curious, seems like overkill with pressure treated lumber and sealing up the insulation. Do you have a moisture problem in that room? Or is it a case of a pound of prevention is worth a ton of cure?[:P]
Why is the water meter in an insulated box? Does the basement get that cold and the pipe/ meter wrapped in heater tape?
It’s not really a good idea to use PT lumber for framing in a finshed wall excluding the shoe/ plate that is in contact with any concrete. PT lumber is a very unstable wood and can twist, warp and have a mind of it’s own.
You are right about PT lumber being unstable. I ripped the 2x4s lengthwise and they warped badly even after being in my basement a few weeks (in the dry winter).
I insulated the water meter and pipes to prevent condensation in the summer. They used to sweat and drip. Likewise I used silicone caulk to seal and air gaps.
I’m not sure why, but I dislike bare wood. I at least prime all wood, and prefer it painted.
My existing RR is DCC HO. Because of my cellar’s humidity and temperature changes, I had expansion problems. Most rail joints have a business card gap and are unsoldered (for expansion) with feeder wires connecting the sections electrically. I’m hoping that enclosing everything in a room separated from the washer/dryer, furnace, etc, with a dehumidifier will prevent problems. This house is over 100 years old and the stone walls get cold. I mortared most of the stone joints because they used sand and what looks like crushed shells - moisture kept destroying the wall paint even with Drylok and oil-based paint. I’ve been after the “root causes” for years.
You are wise to prime or prime & paint the wood. Seals it to some degree and minimizes moisture absorption and consequent warping, expansion and contraction. A clear finish can also be used by those who like natural wood; even a penetrating sealer like Minwax will work and is very easy to apply.
It is not possible to accurately diagnose a building problem long distance but I suggest (1) that you will be better advised to use latex paint over the Drylok (“breathes” better than “oil”/alkyd paint; (2) basement wall moisture problems are usually caused by exterior water penetrating the wall. If you can do it, the best solution is to excavate around the wall and (depending on conditions) either damp-proof the wall or waterproof it (either is usually rather expensive or labor-intensive,
What you describe is exactly what I’ve done over the last 9 years years. I put oil over Drylok AFTER the latex didn’t work (then the oil didn’t either). Then I painted the exterior of the foundation to a foot or 2 below ground level. Looked better, but same problems.
Then I buried all my gutter downspouts into PVC pipe to a creek far behind my house. I the dug up dirt against the foundation angling about 3 ft away. The downspout project really made a difference (and made grass mowing easier). All that was left was the temperature of the stone walls versus the air.
I think I’ve got it solved, but now have 9 years of modeling to catch up. I would recommend others do this before they retire because it was so strenuous.
Glad to hear it and good luck going forward! I congratulate you on your persistence and effort!
A footnote to all: solvent-based “oil”/alkyd paint over latex is not a good idea over any surface. The reverse is usually okay.
Dante
I would just like to add a couple comments. PT wood, especially the new ACQ treated wood, is very corrosive. Any fastener under 1/2" in diameter is recommended to be either stainless steel or hot dip galvanized, but deck screws designed for ACQ can also be used. Any lumber that is resawn (ripped) is subject to twisting,bowing,crowning due to the imbalance of stresses in the wood. ACQ treated lumber seems to allow more moisture absorbtion than either SYP or SPF. This means more expansion and contraction. I have had 8’ 2x4s with a good 1/2" of movement (patio fence rails). I have seen and repaired several fences and exterior wall plates where the builder used 12D CC nails and 6D ringshanks and they had rusted to nothing in the ACQ, but remained fairly intact in the other wood. This was 2-3yrs after installation, and both were subject to increased moisture levels.
Painting the framework is great, not only for the asthetics, but also for dimentional stability. The majority of the moisture that the wood will suck up is through the end grain. It is a great idea to use a good sealer on the ends and really soak it in.
