New layout design....Need some suggestions!

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
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carl, would it be possible for you to add what the radius’s are on your plan there, it would really help me out! Thank you sir!

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The OP seems to be starting a new thread with every new sub-idea so things are getting scattered and hard to follow.

It might be helpful for a moderator to combine several of these topics into one. [I]

23

Everything is 18"

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Carl, thank you sir!

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riogrande5761, i apologize for all the confusion i am causing here and will keep track of my posts from now on. Also, could you guide me to the links mentioned above, i have looked but cant seem to find them…Thanks again!

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Mike, i also like the idea and appreciate your input sir! Thanks.

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I count 5 topics on the first page of the Layouts and layout building section of the forums all related to Trainzman2435 layout questions and help.

I’ve asked the moderators to take a look and hopefully when they have time, they will combine them all into one single topic, as it’s all pretty much related to the request for layout help by the same member. Cheers.

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riogrande5761, thank you sir!

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Here is my latest attempt at a track design. After much thought i think i have decided to just go with a center peninsula rather than the “G” shape suggested only due to my carpentry skills and not feeling comfortable taking a chance on messing it up. I planned my grade begenning on the center peninsula and wrapping around coming down the other side. It will be about 16’ at a 2% grade reaching 4". I am thinking of making the entire center peninsula a mountainous scene with bridges and water falls and or lakes/rivers. Anyways, i know my yards leave a lot to be desired but i am working at it. The north part of the layout i knew i did want a diesel service facility with turn table as well as a cement and gravel plant to service it. The south portion of the layout is still in planning so i just built a small double ended ladder yard for now even though it is rather long for what i plan to run as far as consists. Anyways, please give me your suggestions and ideas…Thanks!

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Hi Trainzman2435,

My suggestion would be to do a mock up of the narrow spots on the aisles. If you are a skinny guy, 24" might be all right. I’m afraid I would get stuck![:$] Even if you are okay with the narrow aisles, give some thought to how close the track and other items can be to the edge of the layout before things start to get knocked about by errant elbows and sleeves.

I visited a friend’s layout last week. He is very slender so he is fine with his narrow aisles. I could barely get through them and it felt claustrophobic. We were discussing the locations for his signals and I suggested that he mount them where they are less likely to get knocked as opposed to where they probably should be. Same with trees, telephone poles or structures.

By the way, I have to comment on how polite and appreciative you are. Very nice to see! I’ll bet your kids are polite too!

Dave

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I’d get stuck too, especially since the narrowest point literally has a point on the penninsular - I’d add a couple of more sides to the pentagon lobe so that at least the edge directly across from the other benchwork is flat. I’d still get stuck in a 24" passage.

Maybe exaggerating a bit, as I did manage to squeeze through a WWII submarine. but a standard door width of 30" is much nicer than 24". You wouldn;t want to reduce the curve radius if you want to run modern equipment, but with a 16" radius you could gain a couple of extra inches on either side. You could get the aisle all the way to 30" but that would mean the track would only be 2" from the edge of the layout. If you can squeeze 2" out of both long sides, then you can have the tracks in the peninsula turnback 4" from the edge but still have a 30" aisle.

–Randy

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Thanks Randy for the feedback, i appreciate it. I did remove the sharp edges of the peninsula and it did give me a few more inches of clearence…Heres what i came up with!

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Dave, thank you sir for your kind comments sir, i really appreciate them. I was taught many years ago to treat people like i would want to be treated so i try my best. As for the tight spots between my peninsula and benchwork i attempted to “smooth” the edges of the peninsula which did in fact give me a little more room. I am not really skinny but i dont really have what you would call a “big” belly either lol. Anyways, let me know what you think and thanks again sir!

34

I would suggest you go with a Peco Double Slip in your loop instead of two turnouts. It seems to me it would make a smoother operation.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/80576.aspx

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

35

Looks like you can make the penninsula 6-12" longer and still maintain the clearance at the corners with the other two turnback curves. My trick to measure this is to draw a circile the diameter of the desired aisle width and place it there so you don’t cramp the space too much. Not much,m but another foot or two of running distance is another foot or two of running distance - and for N scale room to stick in another turnout without shortening the clearance distance - perhaps room for a siding where youy didn’t think you had room to allow your desired train length.

–Randy

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Mel, exa

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[quote user=“Trainzman2435”]

RR_Mel

I would suggest you go with a Peco Double Slip in your loop instead of two turnouts. It seems to me it would make a smoother operation.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/80576.aspx

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.<

38

[quote user=“RR_Mel”]

Trainzman2435

RR_Mel

I would suggest you go with a Peco Double Slip in your loop instead of two turnouts. It seems to me it would make a smoother operation.

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/80576.aspx

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

39

You got it. As for N gauge I don’t know but the HO track is compatible.

Mel

My Model Railroad
http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

Bakersfield, California

I’m beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

40

Thanks Mel, i appreciate the info sir. One last thing, on my reverse loop, where would i isolate and should i go with the Digitraxx AR-1 or is there a better method for controlling the reversing loop?