IMHO I would not go for the double reversing loop for the size of layout that you are considering. I think that one reversing loop can work but it involves working it, which is what real railroads did. The double loop eats up so much space you have no room for structures and scenic opportunities. The wye option in the real world worked because railroads could by enough real estate to put whole trains on it if they wanted. In your situation, it would eat up valuable space. A fella who had a pretty good size layout once told me that he ended up reducing his track plan on the same table by 1/2 because it looked like spaghetti and he was happier with a simpler plan that provided opportunites for structures. But there is no right or wrong answer here, just opinion. Whatever you do I hope it will work out for you. I would like to see photos. [:)]
Jim,
Neat plans. I think I prefer # 3.
Mitch
I don’t know of any pre-made O-27 wyes (wise?).
Here are a couple layouts I did using a wye. I couldn’t find the second operating accessory you have when looking through the list of accessories on RR-Track.
You came up with some great layouts!
Chris
Here’s one with a wye and reversing loop:
Can’t wait to see what you finally come up with!
Chris
Cool, Chris! Hey, that other structure is the AF Sawmill (MTH version). The red one is a barn (object drawing). I’ll work on this some more tonight and see what I can figure out, thx!
I like what you’re doing here, but unless I’m missing something then you’ll have to start the train in counter clockwise motion in order access the inner loops, the only problem is that once you’re finally turned around and back on the outter main, you’re now going the wrong direction and now the inner loops are inaccessible. Personally, I’d want to be able to access the inner portion from either direction on the main. And honestly, I’m not seeing this ability on any of the plans that you’ve laid out so far, but that’s just my 2 cents.
Gotcha - what I’m running into is trying to have basically two layouts in one. My original idea was just to have two separate layouts, one for a switcher and stuff and then one outer loop layout. This sort of evolved to thinking that I would want to occasionally move the trains back and forth, at least those that would run on O27. I think that I’m getting too complicated for such a small space. Especially since I now have done some measurements and will have to have at least a couple feet of fold-down table. This might work to my advantage, since I’ll be able to fold down on 2 sides and this might allow a slightly bigger layout, but I’ll be limited on scenery for the fold-down sections to mostly just track and grass I guess. I’ll definitely have to put an access hatch in the middle, so that will have to be scenery of some kind. Basically, I’m going to take all this advice and alternate ideas and see what I can come up with. Thanks man!
Yeah, I can see the two seperate lines working, for me its not the ideal because in my mind I like to have access to all of the track in a fluid manner, but with what you are planning to run, it may work out better while still leaving space for something other than track.
To be honest I probably wouldn’t have caught the dilemma that I pointed out had I not been working on my son’s $15 plastic Thomas Train set from Wal-Mart, which suffers from the same problem in that by track design once the train starts in one direction and turns around it can never reach a certain portion of the track again, which is kind of irritating to my 5 year old. Frankly, I believe it was engineered this way to get me to purchase more track, but that’s another issue. As for your track I doubt you really want a layout where you have to literally pick up your train to turn it around in order to reach the middle space that would otherwise go unused, IMO that would get annoying really fast.
Okay, If I move a little furniture, I think this will fit in the space I have. What do you guys think? I wish I had more room for sidings, but can’t figure it out without losing most area for accessories and scenery…
Looks good. If you take out the siding with the saw mill, you could add two sidings off the inner oval from the top of the oval and the bottom (intersecting where the saw mill used to me). In other words, the sawmill siding goes right to left. You could remove that and add a siding that goes top to bottom and bottom to top using either two left hand switches, or two right hand switches.
By the way, looks like negotiations are going well 
Looks great, Jim. This plan has a certain flow to it the others didn’t. You have now the ability to run 2 trains simultaneously, or park one in the “passing siding” all the way to the right. The only thing I would change is to place the sawmill at lower left inside the inner loop as well (kinda back to back - not side by side) to the other oone. I like the angle in which the spur (inner loop) comes in to that saw mill. This kinda gives you an industrial area ( I can just imagine some bulkhead flats loaded down with Georgia Pacific goodies parked there now). In the area (lower left) that the sawmill used to be, I’d find myself a handsome one story station, placing it between the track and layout edge. And, WEAVER makes an elevated crossing shanty that would look perfect “guarding” your 45 degree diamond.
Nice JIM.
laz57
Jim, what’s neat about this hobby is the creativity factor and how we all take similar components everyone uses and use them differently.
I think you’ll select the plan and idea that suits you most. But as someone who has become something of an expert at small layouts, here’s some general observations:
-Unless all sides (or at least 3) are accessible I tend to go with a narrower layout. It’s a drag to not be able to reach on to the layout to fix, repair, clean or just have access.
-Keep your operating accessories up front or within easy access. Non-operating structures could go towards the back or less accessible areas.
-As a cost savings, utilize manual switches for yards or up front within easy reach. The Lionel postwar 1024 manual switch has a slightly smaller base, which may allow for some more scenery options. I use switches of many vintages, but chop the base down in size to literally just the track alone. On small layouts, this opens so many other options. Manual swtiches can also be made to operate from the front of a layout using nylon fish line or bicycle brake cables. Making your own track end bumpers out of scraps of pine can also make for a few more inches of space on a siding. I’ve installed a flashing red light into mine like the Lionel or K-Line one, so I get the effect of another flashing light on the layout without taking up the space of the Lionel bumper on the track.
-Put monuntains, bridges towards the back or inner less accessible parts of the layout, but make sure you can always have access. Putting a tunnel toward the back with the backside of the mountain “open” will allow you access for cleaning track and unplanned derailments.
-Unless you are using TMCC, having insulated blocks will make operation more fun and vaired. An easy solution to cut down on under-the-table wiring is to make some kind of railside power box (like the style used for the Lionel/MTH infared controllers) and have a small slide switch on the top of t
Thanks guys - lots of good info. I’m trying to decide if I can fit some kind of hatch or two in there. I’m also thinking of putting the whole thing on some kind of wheels so I could pull it out from the back wall when needed…
Jim,
The layout looks great! Lots of running options in a small space.
Chris
alot of good info brianel…i am just starting a 027 layout, go tubular, and am finding some issues with design of the track…
jim i like a few of your plans i may steal an idea…if thats ok…
Hey Jim, this one looks great, what’s more is that now you can access the whole track without touching the train, plus it gives you plenty of switching options. My vote is for this one.
This should fit nicely and I’ll put wheels on it so I can pull it out and scenic the back side.
I like the last one.You got in every thing needed to not be frustrated and in SIX by SIX feet.
Bargain with “She who must be obeyed” for the space.Have fun.
looks nicee jim. cant wait to see your progress!