So after working on my 4x8 for a few months, I ran into lots of issues ( wiring, places trains are derailing, not enough opperations, and how i regret using 18" turns and turnouts) so I tore it all up and am now startiong with a blank page. I found a layout I really like but have a question on what turnouts to use and how to wire it. I want bigger locomotives to be able to handle the turnouts without problems. Im using code 83 atlas turnouts. Any advice is greatly appreciated on how to get this ball rolling. 
Cuyama aka Byron Henderson posts here quite a bit, so let’s hope he chimes in.
I assume the "6"s by some turnouts mean they are #6 turnouts. I’ll guess the others may be #4s.
I am compelled to point out that this layout also uses 18" radius turns, though, on the inner loop.
Byron also has a really nice “doughnut” layout plan he has published that uses the same space as 4 x 8 and accomodates 22" radius curves. It is worth checking out.
edit: actually it is 6 x 8 but still worth checking out https://www.layoutvision.com/ho-6x8-donut
Two questions.
One, what will be your minimum radius on curves? In my experience, the bare minimum should be 24" radius curves to avoid derailments of larger locos and longer cars.
Two, what number will you select for the Atlas Code 83 turnouts? While you may get by with #4 turnouts, in my experience, performance will be much better with #6 turnouts. So, consider Atlas Custom Line Code 83 #6 turnouts.
Rich
I found a description on Byron’s website: https://www.layoutvision.com/shortline-4x8
You need Atlas #4s and some #6s:
Think about a different design though:
I like this design a lot and I think Im goin to run with it! Thank you for also linking the website, Its exactly what I was looking for
Good! Go for it!
Byron has comparisons of 4X8s against other designs:
https://www.layoutvision.com/why-waste-the-space-on-a-4x8
Lots of good info there…
I noticed and am okay with that. I don’t use too large of cars, my longest being a 60’ bulkhead and my longest loco a GEVO, but even the GEVO could handle the 18" and snap switches on the old layout like a champ, looked goofy doing it but was a champ
Minimum radi would be 18" on the inside loop. Fine for me as I would be running GEEPs and an mp15 in the inside and leave the outside main for my SDs and my GEVO and I found the link to the original design and its #6s on the main and #4 in the industries. As for my cars go, most are 50’ and the largest is a 60’ bulkhead flat
I would strongly suggest an “obstacle course” for all equipment before it goes onto your layout.
I build mine from Kato HO scale unitrack, and all pieces must be able to run thropugh the course before they are certified for operation.
The obstacles are a 24 inch radius double reverse S curve with no tangent trackage, both directions of Kato’s small turnouts, and 19 inch radius curves in both directions without S curves.
They must do this coupled to a 36 foot car on one end and a 60 foot car on the other.
Making the obstacle course out of Kato unitrack makes it very easy to store and get out when it is needed.
These conditions are more severe than what will be encountered on the layout.
-Kevin
Hello All,
What was the track plan and dimensions of “the old layout”?
Yes, 85-foot passenger cars will run through my 15-inch curves and the Atlas Snap Switches being pulled by a consist of A-B-B F-units on the head end with a reversed A F-unit for the “return”. However, this is the exception and not the norm on my 4’x8’ pike.
The 15-inch curves are part of an asymmetrical curve. The curves are half 15-inch radii to 18-inch radii.
Your initial post was regarding a 4’x8’ walk around pike. Now you are contemplating an around the wall pike.
I’m a bit confused…
What is the actual space you are working with?
Are you seeking/limited to a 4’x8’ or can you have an alternate bench work configuration?
Something to consider as you expand your railroad empire…
“A model railroad should probably start with a concept. Why? Because much knowledge about railroading, experience in model railroading, and thought are required before a proper concept for a model railroad can be formed. These requirements are seldom possible on a first pike. Mine was no exception.”
- -John Allen; Gorre & Daphetid Railroad.
You have created several posts regarding the same theme, one has been locked.
If you can focus on one aspect of your needs; layout design, wiring, operations, the folks on these forums can help you better.
Hope this helps.
Didn’t you start this thread by stating that you regretted installing 18" radius curves so you tore it all up?
Rich
Yes. I guess I could have made myself more clear, I regretted using 18" as the mainline. I’m fine with using them on the inside loop as long as the mainline is 22"
Sorry for the confusion a
If you have the space to move that layout, you really don’t want to block that electrical service panel or the escape window well.
Rich
It was moved there to clean the otherside of the basement. Thats not its final home
ahh, good.
That old layout actually is a commendable start. I like the look and color of the ballast, and a nice job on the landscaping. If you could talk the folks into letting you expand the layout a little, say to a 6’ x 8’ layout, you could broaden the radius of the mainline curves. I believe that you are off to a good start.
Rich
Thank you! I really liked how the scenery and ballast came out, but the opperation was too basic and got boring after few minutes
I agree; you have done some nice work. If you want to make a change, make a change. The important thing is to *do–*don’t get analysis paralysis. So if you’ve decided to build this new layout, build it, scenic it, wire it, and operate it. You can always change something you don’t like, or start over again, if your interests change.