It’s been 45 years, so I’m a bit rusty. Sorry if my terminolgy is out of date. I’m planning a ceiling shelf loop, two parallel tracks, (80+ feet each track, possibly two trains each track) and need advice on:
Wiring – How do I maintain constant speed around the loop? Iv’e see a noticeable drop off in speed at far end, even in a hobby shop! Gauge/type wire?
Flex track (Will place on top of cork roadbed) – 100?
Best place to shop online for service and price?
Dual control transformer (one for each track)?
Experienced input most welcome. Thank you in advance.
Welcome Jeff. The slow down is most likely caused by voltage drop. You lose a little with every rail joint. The solution is to solder the joints (leaving a few open for expansion/contraction) and to run a pair of bus wires say 14 gauge with 18 gauge feeders from it to each soldered section - I would use 10 foot sections unless you have great humidity/temperature swings.
Enjoy
Paul
Bus wires run along the track lines but underneath the layout, and feeder wires run up to the track and are soldered to the underside of the rail usually at the rail joiners.
Very simple, but eliminates join problems and voltage drop, and makes the change to digital command control (DCC) very easy in future if you want.
Bus wires run along the track lines but underneath the layout, and feeder wires run up to the track and are soldered to the underside of the rail usually at the rail joiners.
For another newby returning to the scene after 20 plus years. On your layout you run wires inder the layout, and every 10 ft or so run some (feeder) wires up to the track to keep the voltage up on whole track. is that correct ?
The safest way to run feeders is to run them from every section of track and not rely on joiners or soldered track. We did this on our club layout, on my own layout, and it has been advised in many MR articles. It may take a little longer, but you only do it once and eliminate any voltage drop problems . Use 14 gauge bus and 20 gauge feeders.
Ron K
Thank you, all, for the feedback on feeder wires. I have heard about DCC, but am not sure if it’s necessary in my case. I am running an 80’ loop, no switches or side tracks. It would seem I could run two trains on the loop and balance the speed by adding a car or two to the faster train to slow it down a bit. It worked 40 years ago. If I do choose DCC, will I need a special transformer? Will both engines need the control. Will it function by hand held remote, or the transformer? Approximately what will DCC add to the cost of a typical engine? Thank you / Jeff
Not all but most newer, better quality locos these days are “DCC-ready”. That means that all you have to do is add a decoder. On some, its just a drop in/plug in and you’re ready to go. Others, it might take a slight bit of soldering to hook them up.
The cost of decoders on average will run you ~$20-$25. The more expensive ones have more features.
You can control speed, direction, front and rear lights, lighting effects, bell, whistle, horn, coupling clank sound, train station sounds such as All Aboard!! All with the right Loco/decoder.
Two trains running on the same track in opposite directions.
If you automated two passing sidings half way round your loop the two trains could pass each other going in opposite directions!!
Thank you, again, for the advice. Any suggestion on power packs for TWO 80’ parallel loops? I’m told to avoid the dual control units. Best online site to buy (reasonably priced) equipment, preferrably w/ images of locomotives & cars?