I am thinking about setting up an area where my trains can elevate about a 1-3’ in elevation to allow the run to clear over my entrance/exit door of my man cave so I can set up scenes on the opposite side of my walk way and to allow parts of my tracks to run through some of the walls of my office area, but do not want to have them above 6’ so they can run desk level when running through my office area… You know, so I can send notes from my desk to other parts of the house, ie… my wife’s office…
What you’re thinking about is called a “helix.” If you search the forum on that word, you’ll find a lot of information about them. There is at least one company that makes pre-built helix systems.
What you will find is that a helix takes up a lot of space. The slope has to be very gradual, and the curves have to be pretty gentle, too, to allow longer trains to climb up. They are generally used to get between layers of a multi-deck layout.
For the job of simply crossing a doorway, you may find that a simple removeable bridge is a better way to go. Some prefer a solid “duck-under” approach, while others have built lift-off, lift-up, drop-down or even swing-out bridge systems to allow easier access while trains aren’t running.
Hi, have you considered a train elevator? It would be very space saving, rather than a huge-diameter helix that would require twice the radius (plus more) of whatever your curve radius is.
Seems to me that there have been a couple of projects detailed in MR or Kalmbach’s annual mags in the past few years. It could be an interesting thing to do.
Have fun, George
Robert,
Mr. B is correct that one of the ways to achieve what your trying to do is a helix but how ever the over all size of a helix to elevate track 36" takes up a lot of real estate some where around 4’ to 5’ square so you had better have ample room for such. to climb a 3’ grade at an acceptable grade lets say 2% will also take a great deal of room leaving you with several options. A: a lift out section: B: a swing bridge or hinged bridge is another viable option that many modelers are forced to use. The big no no’s are duck unders. I know some are forced to use them but if at all possible avoid them. Many myself included eventually find them to be more of a hindrance then a help. I have been contemplating altering my track plan to eliminate two lift-out bridges.all together, but do to the space I have to work in they may be left in as the lesser of two evils.
A few things to consider when selecting a method of getting across a door.
Even a supertight-radius helix [on a route where teakettle tank locos power short trains of short (as in taconite hopper size) cars] ended up being a yard in diameter over supporting structure. One built to my 610mm (24 inch) mainline radius would barely fit between (full scale) standard gauge rails - and that is considered too tight for long trains. Unless your man-cave is rather large (say, master bedroom or living room size) it will eat up a LOT of your space. If you want to span a door you will probably need two…
A train elevator can be built in a footprint six inches wide and slightly longer than the longest train it will be called on to lift. The trick there is to arrange to keep it absolutely level through its entire range of travel. A variation on this theme would span the door with a permanently-installed lift. Hiding the guides might be a challenge.
A swinging gate needs room to swing, and to leave enough clearance to get by once it’s open. Unless you have the build of an elite gymnast, 24 clear inches is as low as you should go.
Raise- or drop leaf bridges need positive locks in both the horizontal and vertical at both ends. They might be prone to scenery damage if they have scenically finished tops.
Lift-outs have one basic issue. Where do you put the removed section after you lift it out? Depending on design, standing it on end might be an option if that can be done without putting rail ends at hazard.
My personal layout includes a couple of one turn loops, 350mm radius, which require a lot of tractive effort on very short trains. Even with ultra-thin construction, I ended up with a grade on the order of 3.5%. (The ruling grade on that route is 4% on tangent track.) My loads/empties arrangement includes a train elevator about four feet long (and some fancy footwork in
“…or even swing-out bridge systems to allow easier access while trains aren’t running.” This sounds like an excellent idea… with a swing-out bridge system, how would I facilitate the reconnection/disconnection of the track when the door opens and closes? And, the henge (pivot) end of the swing-out bridge system? I can see the electrical connection (by-pass) to get around the door, but as far as the rails in order to prevent the train from derailing…
“…a train elevator…”, sounds like a very likely possibility… connections/disconnections of the rails???
… lift-out bridges…", that would not work for a swinging door to enter/exit. That would mean to leave the track out and only put it in to facilitate the use when viewing the operation… I do plan on automating the complete set of trains in use to facilitate computer controls to summons the train when needed and to facilitate the auto transport of the flatbed cars to transport particular objects around my place. As mentioned in my original post, one thought is to use the train to transport small objects from room to room…
If you have a pile of MR about, look at the Jun/2009 issue for an elevator article. There is a video to be found by searching “train elevator” at the top-right corner of this forum.
For tracking reliability, be really picky about the construction. As for any removable track, precision is key, and I’d recommend some rerailers disguised as vehicle crossings, at each end of the moving table, and at each mating track.
Hiding the lift shouldn’t be difficult with some strategically placed trees or bldgs.
Have fun, George
“…Unless your man-cave is rather large (say, master bedroom or living room size) it will eat up a LOT of your space…” My Man Cave is a 2 car garage converted to a work shop, an kitchenette, an sleeping area (with movie viewing area), a computer office area, a 1/2 restroom (sink cabinet, urinal, commode including a window next to the sink), and laundry area in it’s original location (supply of water facility for sink, urinal, and commode). The area near the entrance/exit door will facilitate the main display of the city/farm land area and is large enough for the helix of a 4’x4’ (or so) area. Some where here, I posted a drawing of my Man Cave… Some one might locate it and throw in some ideas of where I am talking about laying the city/farm land and passing the entrance/exit door.
…a pile of MR about, look at the Jun/2009 issue for an elevator article…", where might i get a look at this video?
The video is on this forum.
Go to the first page that greets you as you enter this forum. There’s a bright green box saying: “Welcome back…” that should catch your eye. Above it is a black box with a “Search This Site” line and a white area where you put trainelevator and hit the GO box. It’ll take a while to download, but the video is about 3-1/2 minutes long.
Happy viewing, G
BigG, I clicked on the video to watch it and all it will do is open the same screen in a different tab window.
Oops! This video is a “Subscriber-Only” item. Do you subscribe to MR? Or is your ISP throttling videos?
If not a subscriber, the Model Railroader mag will have to do it. Other than seeing the elevator working so well, the printed article gave me a better look at the details, IMHO. Perhaps a subscriber friend can pull the video for you?
Not to be a pitchman, but a subscription would be a great Christmas present if you do that sort of thing…
Can anyone out there give us a hand?
BigG,
No, I do not have a subscription, but like you said, some one might be able to pull it up and email it to me…
Well, it’s not for lack of trying. The video is likely copyright material, so passing it along would be verboten.
On another track (terrible pun!), have you looked into Google Groups to see what is there?
Borrowing a copy of that MR issue may be another idea. You could try your local library, hobby shop or club, or even get a back issue from MR itself…
Anyway, don’t give up on the idea. Doing the research is one of the many branches of the hobby; one never quite knows where it could lead.
Have fun, George